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Marantz Cinema 70s AVR Review

Rate this AVR:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 188 61.2%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 86 28.0%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 20 6.5%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 13 4.2%

  • Total voters
    307
I guess X2800H is better, depending what you're looking for. X2800H has no pore-out and is also higher than 70s, so it's a no go for me, but for you it might be a better choice.
I have 20cm of space and don't have any space for an additional power amp. Will probably get SVS SB-1000 pro sub with Q3010i fronts.
 
I guess X2800H is better, depending what you're looking for. X2800H has no pore-out and is also higher than 70s, so it's a no go for me, but for you it might be a better choice.
I agree, X1800H is better, and cheaper. It amazingly has pre outs for the front 2 channels. Costs less than the C70, wish someone would send one to Amir for test.
 
I agree, X1800H is better, and cheaper. It amazingly has pre outs for the front 2 channels. Costs less than the C70, wish someone would send one to Amir for test.
x1800h.png


I don't know when X1800H had front pre-outs, but it doesn't anymore.
Over here it's more expensive than X2800H and Cinema 70s...

It seems US version has pre-outs and its cheaper, EU version does not and its not cheaper...shame
 
I have 20cm of space and don't have any space for an additional power amp. Will probably get SVS SB-1000 pro sub with Q3010i fronts.
I suppose @peng meant X2800H instead.

However, X2800H it has Pre-out only for Zone 2 and I can't understand from their manual if it's able to route the audio signal for the front speakers through the Pre-out as well.

Also, X2800H's height is 167 mm, so the remaining 33 mm may not be enough to cool the unit down properly, just double check the cooling part.
 
I suppose @peng meant X2800H instead.

However, X2800H it has Pre-out only for Zone 2 and I can't understand from their manual if it's able to route the audio signal for the front speakers through the Pre-out as well.

Also, X2800H's height is 167 mm, so the remaining 33 mm may not be enough to cool the unit down properly, just double check the cooling part.
I meant X1800H, it has pre outs for FL/FR, yes I double checked after a poster reported on another thread/post. The X2800H, as you said has pre out for Z2 only.

It may be possible that they eliminated it in later batches. Have to go out now but will post a photo when I am back, if I can find it in perhaps a saved file.
 
Regarding the 70s I wonder what is going on in the amp section. Is there something wrong with the ECO function that makes it switch mode? Apparently something was fishy with the NR1510 as well where ECO off appeared as ECO on.
 
I meant X1800H, it has pre outs for FL/FR, yes I double checked after a poster reported on another thread/post. The X2800H, as you said has pre out for Z2 only.

It may be possible that they eliminated it in later batches. Have to go out now but will post a photo when I am back, if I can find it in perhaps a saved file.
For US market only, not for EU, at least I wasn't able to find a X1800H with Pre-Out, nor a X2800H, a few weeks ago when I was looking to buy an AVR.
 
Regarding the 70s I wonder what is going on in the amp section. Is there something wrong with the ECO function that makes it switch mode? Apparently something was fishy with the NR1510 as well where ECO off appeared as ECO on.
Not sure what do you mean Thomas? I hear the switches inside clicking in when I press the ECO mode, but only when output power is low on the speakers, usually during late evening when I listen to rather low volume levels. Power consumption gets lower from 26.7W to 18.5W when switching ECO to On. BTW, my Yamaha A-S701 takes 40W without any music on its inputs, so the ECO feature might be a good thing after all.

I haven't figured out yet what this ECO mode is actually doing, maybe it switches on-the-fly some voltage rails to a lower voltage? Or perhaps it lowers the bias current for the output stage? @restorer-john do you have any thoughts on this one, please?
 
Not sure what do you mean Thomas? I hear the switches inside clicking in when I press the ECO mode, but only when output power is low on the speakers, usually during late evening when I listen to rather low volume levels. Power consumption gets lower from 26.7W to 18.5W when switching ECO to On. BTW, my Yamaha A-S701 takes 40W without any music on its inputs, so the ECO feature might be a good thing after all.

I haven't figured out yet what this ECO mode is actually doing, maybe it switches on-the-fly some voltage rails to a lower voltage? Or perhaps it lowers the bias current for the output stage? @restorer-john do you have any thoughts on this one, please?
If you look at the NR1510 review it seems that ECO off mode was in fact ECO on (limit power to 15 watts). ECO auto gave higher output with some odd distortion pattern.


To see it seems that the 70s behave strange as well, although not the same way as the nr1510, so I am curious if this is a bug in the ECO function.
 
I haven't tested it much, but I've seen that ECO Auto becomes Off when I lower the volume too much for a while and becomes On when I raise the volume, but I'll probably need to have this tested a bit more to make a final opinion.
 
I haven't tested it much, but I've seen that ECO Auto becomes Off when I lower the volume too much for a while and becomes On when I raise the volume, but I'll probably need to have this tested a bit more to make a final opinion.
Reading the manual regarding auto mode, it seems to have a timing set. I just reacted to Amirs findings of 2 minutes switching. There is a strange power on setting also, dictating if ECO should be on or off every time the unit is powered on.

"If the volume is set to a high level but no input signal is detected for more than 2 minutes, this unit will enable power savings. When an input signal is detected again or the input source is changed, this unit will automatically turn off power savings again at high volume levels."

 
@amirm

from your description the behaviour of the power amp mimics how it is described in ECO auto mode. Did you check the setting in the "power on default mode"? To me the ECO mode function seem to be buggy as you found with the NR1510 model. And was the amp set to speaker 8, 6 or 4 ohms mode? It seems to affect ECO mode as well.
 
I wonder how much would the price difference be with the IcePower amps Marantz used in their 16 channel amp. And how much better the general performance would get.
 
Hopefully they will go this way, especially for AVRs that will get DLART in the future. With co-optimisation in particular, it is important that the correction signals are not reproduced in compressed form. But a much bigger problem will be if the correction signals are reproduced correctly but the main signal stumbles.
 
I wonder how much would the price difference be with the IcePower amps Marantz used in their 16 channel amp. And how much better the general performance would get.
From Gene's review of the AMP10, the 1W performance is excellent and at rated power, it's similar to D+M's Class AB amps.

 
From Gene's review of the AMP10, the 1W performance is excellent and at rated power, it's similar to D+M's Class AB amps.

Yeah, I based my conjeture on his numbers. For such a massive amount of channels, that amp is a monster. The performance is quite a lot better than AVR´s internal amps by quite a large margin.
 
Hopefully they will go this way, especially for AVRs that will get DLART in the future. With co-optimisation in particular, it is important that the correction signals are not reproduced in compressed form. But a much bigger problem will be if the correction signals are reproduced correctly but the main signal stumbles.
That depends on the processing power of the unit. Usually, processors downscale bitrate to use Dirac or Audyssey, but to be honest, at those prices, they shouldn´t.
 
Canton smart connect 5.1 might be a better buy for the same money. If the digital filter used has better attenuation.
As you know, Swedish soundtechnical society has shown that a good attenuation of the digital filtering is the most crucial thing in a dac for being without coloration in the listening tests. More important than high SINAD numbers.
That may be true, and let's assume it is true but it begs the following simple questions:

1) Is this attenuation of the digital filtering a current issue with even the mid range dac chips such as the ES9010K2M, ES9026Pro?
2) Even if it is, and is detectable in those listening tests, how would they quantify the audibility levels between this factor and SINAD, say in the range of 91 (that is about the worst you can get to 120 dB (about the best you can get from the current best chips such as ESS, PCM, AKM, Cirrus Logic's?
3) So okay if their finding is 100% valid, still, does high SINAD hurt anything, if not, what's wrong with aiming for high SINAD, that at least serve to minimize noise that is always going to be audible in a quiet room, if below a certain point, say 96 dB SNR?

4) Most importantly, are they just doing such study because they found some of the popular DACs color the sound that are audible to their study group? If not, what is their goal, conclusions?

It just find it a little silly to imply (not you, some people tend to do...) that why chase high SINAD when there are other factors that matter too, or even matter more. The thing is, knowing there are other factors that need to be solved, it should be more important to at least do the best on factors that can be improved to the point where we can say it is solved.
 
I finally aggregated most of the data and managed to publish a rather long to read teardown here: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...rsonal-thoughts-and-a-few-measurements.50743/. Three pics couldn't get uploaded, but I might added them later on the review thread.

Seems decent electronics inside and for the price I paid I wold say it's a keeper for me, especially because I can't find a low-height AVR close to 650 EUR that has the same features.
 
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