Marantz 6110 TT repair instructions & questions.

[TheDarkMatters]

Regarding the marantz 6110 :

First here is a link to a very detailed post about standard cleaning when refurbishing/cleaning a 6110:

Marantz 6110- Vinyl Engine

www.vinylengine.com

When I bring the tone arm out over the platter it spins but will no longer lowers. Also it won’t stop spinning.

The cue elevator won’t lower/ down with the cue stick. If pushed down by hand it rises back up. The article said it’s usually 1 of 2 issues and refers to the rock drop and the super slow drop..

A YouTube video talks about a “micro switch” that needs to be cleaned in relation to the platter stop/start . That’s all he says then he promptly ends the video. Where this micro switch located?

Lastly It looks like the isolation feet need replacing; their Integrity has been majorly compromised and perhaps ruined The *only* replacement feet I live found are these https://www.mnpctech.com/products/marantz-6110-turntable-isolation-feet-four … I found a forum post where a male-Karen was gaslighting the OP responding to questions with questions and he states they’re for the 6110l but they don’t have springs (they are rubber) and they don’t look anything like the ones I have.. It’s concerning that there seems to be the only 1 company on earth selling what I need and they don’t match/don’t have springs. Of The four different types of isolation feet, etc. they stated springs make some of the best iso feet . Any suggestions? I was thinking about losing the feet all together and going with an isolation stand. If I can find a functional attractive one.
[EDIT] found better looking feet but they ship from the EU https://www.euromaxx.nu/product/marantz-6100-and-6200-turntable-custom-isolation-feet-repair/

I should add i’m doing all this by cell Phone and my phone gets compromised quite frequently.. Google only gives me ONE page of results without the option of seeing a 2nd .. as if The Internet suddenly ran out of data. Google Usually only shows me two-three websites repeated over and over then the page ends. 15 years ago One of my favorite things to do was to skip 18 or 20 pages deep into a Google search just to see what would see. 2023 and I get one filtered page with 2-3 sites one of which is always always eBay. Google will actually tell me my search yielded zero results at times and they’re giving me links to eBay listings from 2022 that are no longer active (I have to click on them to see).

What I’m experiencing is more disturbing than the SS spying / harassment programs I’ve read about in Germany . I’m 99% sure I’m on a virtual network not the actual WWW … total PWNAGE;

Ok Here are some pics

 

[MaxwellsEq]

One of the photos you posted (/img_1476-jpeg.291931) has a single yellow arrow on it. That black box underneath it with a red and a brown wire soldered to it is a microswitch e.g. https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDet...=sGAEpiMZZMsqIr59i2oRcrgJnFxKqBMZHNjyKKo/mPk=

 

[restorer-john]

When I bring the tone arm out over the platter it spins but will no longer lowers. Also it won’t stop spinning.

The cue elevator won’t lower/ down with the cue stick. If pushed down by hand it rises back up. The article said it’s usually 1 of 2 issues and refers to the rock drop and the super slow drop..

A YouTube video talks about a “micro switch” that needs to be cleaned in relation to the platter stop/start . That’s all he says then he promptly ends the video. Where this micro switch located?

It's a very simple mechanism.

The problems are dried out grease/lubrication and/or a failing microswitch. You cannot 'clean' an microswitch- they are a buckling spring arrangement and the low actuation force switches used back in 1978 (when this table was made- 45 years ago!) simply wear out/get tired. Good news is you can use pretty much any Omron style microswitch that fits- just make sure you adequately insulate the terminals from the steel chassis. Use some elephant-hide or similar if you are replacing the switch with a non-shrouded one. If the plastic plate is separate, just re-use it.

I would be removing each pivoting part, cleaning and re-lubing each shaft/guide. Do them one at a time and carefully hold each cir/e clip, lest it shoots out and disappears in your carpet.

The cueing cylinder needs to be dismantled, cleaned and repacked with a tiny amount of silicone diff oil. Get it from an R/C shop. Say 500-1000wt.

The reject/cue lever will also need clean/lubing and the toothed gear on the upper side will need to be cleaned where the pivoting return actuation cam attaches.

 

[TheDarkMatters]

Thanks ya’’ll

What’s about the feet? $150.00 for isolation feet? There has to be plenty of more affordable options that are as good?

That’s a a large amount of OF $ for some springs plastic and rubber; I’m not ready to accept that.

 

[restorer-john]

Thanks ya’’ll

What’s about the feet? $150.00 for isolation feet? There has to be plenty of more affordable options that are as good?

That’s a a large amount of OF $ for some springs plastic and rubber; I’m not ready to accept that.

That’s a rip off. You could use the springs, fill the with squashy foam (like yoga mat foam) and attach whats left of the old feet on the bottom.

It would look and likely function perfectly well.

 

[Galliardist]

It has to be said: if your phone is as you describe it, and you are more concerned about fixing that turntable, your priorities are horribly wrong.

If you are lucky, all you have is a search engine hijack. You did say “frequently compromised” though, and you appear to buy planning to buy parts online. I presume you use the phone for other financial and private matters. Don’t take any more risk.

Get your phone properly fixed now. If you have an old phone that can’t get a current OS and updates, replace it as soon as you can afford to.

Once the phone is fixed or replaced change all your passwords and carefully check your financial records. Turn on multi factor authentication for any accounts that offer it. That can be a pain to use, but it helps keep you safe.

Make sure you don’t do things that may get your phone compromised again.

Playing records can wait.

 

[TheDarkMatters]

It has to be said: if your phone is as you describe it, and you are more concerned about fixing that turntable, your priorities are horribly wrong.

If you are lucky, all you have is a search engine hijack. You did say “frequently compromised” though, and you appear to buy planning to buy parts online. I presume you use the phone for other financial and private matters. Don’t take any more risk.

Get your phone properly fixed now. If you have an old phone that can’t get a current OS and updates, replace it as soon as you can afford to.

Once the phone is fixed or replaced change all your passwords and carefully check your financial records. Turn on multi factor authentication for any accounts that offer it. That can be a pain to use, but it helps keep you safe.

Make sure you don’t do things that may get your phone compromised again.

Playing records can wait.

I refuse your “advice”.

Apple, Google (and others) systematically hack and monitor specific humans 24/7 ; it has to do with my awesome DNA and the sad pathetic lizards/frogs who are hiding under our state parks & monuments. They smell like moldy swamp water.

Because this is a science based website I would encourage Anyone reading to first look my recently discovered tangible evidence before dismissing my claims. You can go stand on these buildings and touch them. I tricked one of them into coming up to the surface near these GPS coordinates. … It was U G L Y he ain’t got no alibi.

USE GOOGLE EARTH

29°27'42"N 81°07'54"W
29°27'42"N 81°07'47"W
29°23'29"N 81°06'03"W

I’ve stood on top of these structures. The NOAA, Fish and wildlife, Coast Guard, sheriffs department..: they knew about the creatures and their underwater cities but are not permitted to speak about them.

Apparently I am allowed to speak about this stuff. Because of this I believe I’m Going to be targeted and hacked for the rest of my life, whether I use an iPhone, or an android.

I’d like to focus on the marantz 6110 turntable If that’s ok.

I’m going to the hobby store today to get the correct silicon lube + C clamps, and a tool to get the C clamps back on.

Can someone post a link to a switch capacitor thingy or what specs to stick to?

 

[TheDarkMatters]

It's a very simple mechanism.

The problems are dried out grease/lubrication and/or a failing microswitch. You cannot 'clean' an microswitch- they are a buckling spring arrangement and the low actuation force switches used back in 1978 (when this table was made- 45 years ago!) simply wear out/get tired. Good news is you can use pretty much any Omron style microswitch that fits- just make sure you adequately insulate the terminals from the steel chassis. Use some elephant-hide or similar if you are replacing the switch with a non-shrouded one. If the plastic plate is separate, just re-use it.

I would be removing each pivoting part, cleaning and re-lubing each shaft/guide. Do them one at a time and carefully hold each cir/e clip, lest it shoots out and disappears in your carpet.

The cueing cylinder needs to be dismantled, cleaned and repacked with a tiny amount of silicone diff oil. Get it from an R/C shop. Say 500-1000wt.

The reject/cue lever will also need clean/lubing and the toothed gear on the upper side will need to be cleaned where the pivoting return actuation cam attaches.

Thank you so much. I started out at a Home Depot and I’ve gone to Hobby lobby ace hardware a few record stores, but I cannot find the recommended lube, deoxit d5 or miniature C clips/a tool for them.

I’m going to order everything online I attached a screenshot of my Amazon shopping cart. Does it look correct?

What specs should I look for when It comes to replacing this “Omron micro-switch” ? I have no clue what I’m looking for. I’m not Messing with the microswitch until everything else is done. But I do want to replace it regardless.

Finally where can I find the little c-clamps for these tiny spindle / post thingies?

Thanks.

 

[TheDarkMatters]

One of the photos you posted (/img_1476-jpeg.291931) has a single yellow arrow on it. That black box underneath it with a red and a brown wire soldered to it is a microswitch e.g. https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Honeywell/BZ-2RW82-A2?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsqIr59i2oRcrgJnFxKqBMZHNjyKKo/mPk=

Will this specific micro switch work? I’ve got everything done except thei micro switch

Thanks in advance