So my dad had some Klipsch KG 1.5s lying around. I hooked them up and had a listen. They were pretty bad. I took some gated on-axis measurements and they were... well as bad as I expected based on how they sounded. But this was a blessing in disguise for me. I love engineering and building DIY speakers, but I'm not too fond of woodworking. I now had before me a pair of perfectly good enclosures for my next build. They only part I'll have to build myself is the front baffle.
As you can see, there is a lip on the edge of the enclosure. I had to fill that in before gluing on a front baffle. The lip is 3/8". Luckily, I had some 3/8" plywood on hand, so I cut two pieces down to the size of the cutout. I screwed in the first one and sanded it down to get a flat, uniform surface for gluing. Then I went to do the same thing for the second enclosure, and the lip was 1/2"! I had to do a lot more sanding on that one...
After adding some wood filler, here are the results.
Then it was time for the front baffle. I took inspiration from forum user RHO and used Ikea APTITLIG cutting boards. I glued them on then used a table saw followed by a router to make them fit perfectly on the cabinets.
I was a bit over-aggressive on one of my cuts. I really should've used the table-saw BEFORE gluing them on. Oops.
Tomorrow I'll rout out the openings for the drivers. I'll be using the Dayton Audio RS150P-8A for the woofer and Dayton Audio ND25FW-4 for the tweeter. I chose the woofer because it modeled well with the box and port dimensions I had to work with (approx .41 cu ft or 11.5L, tuned to 55 Hz). I chose the tweeter because it has a waveguide that seems to be a good size to mate with this woofer, and it's cheap.
As you can see, there is a lip on the edge of the enclosure. I had to fill that in before gluing on a front baffle. The lip is 3/8". Luckily, I had some 3/8" plywood on hand, so I cut two pieces down to the size of the cutout. I screwed in the first one and sanded it down to get a flat, uniform surface for gluing. Then I went to do the same thing for the second enclosure, and the lip was 1/2"! I had to do a lot more sanding on that one...
After adding some wood filler, here are the results.
Then it was time for the front baffle. I took inspiration from forum user RHO and used Ikea APTITLIG cutting boards. I glued them on then used a table saw followed by a router to make them fit perfectly on the cabinets.
I was a bit over-aggressive on one of my cuts. I really should've used the table-saw BEFORE gluing them on. Oops.
Tomorrow I'll rout out the openings for the drivers. I'll be using the Dayton Audio RS150P-8A for the woofer and Dayton Audio ND25FW-4 for the tweeter. I chose the woofer because it modeled well with the box and port dimensions I had to work with (approx .41 cu ft or 11.5L, tuned to 55 Hz). I chose the tweeter because it has a waveguide that seems to be a good size to mate with this woofer, and it's cheap.