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Make your own Speaker wire and or cables RCA / TRS / XLR
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If you have Defective RCA cables and have no means or desire of doing this upgrade I will suggest these as the quality is very high and without cutting the wires to double check it appears both the wires attaching to the positive have copper inside them. I say this as the RCA subwoofer cable I upgraded had 2 wire but one was just rubber no copper inside.
Just be aware they are 22 gauge wires so nothing outside the normal of what is available for plug and play use.
All the TRS and XLR cables I have bought and been able to open are 22 Gauge or to close to confidently say without cutting and splicing the wires on each one.
Just be aware they are 22 gauge wires so nothing outside the normal of what is available for plug and play use.
All the TRS and XLR cables I have bought and been able to open are 22 Gauge or to close to confidently say without cutting and splicing the wires on each one.
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Close up shots of the solder points of the Monoprice TRS cable I bought.
Just to be clear these are the full TRS cables I bought and not my soldering or upgraded wires...
Just to be clear these are the full TRS cables I bought and not my soldering or upgraded wires...
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Close up shots of the Solder points of the Tisino TRS cables I bought.
Just to be clear these are Tisonp TRS cables I bought and not my soldering or upgraded wires...
Just to be clear these are Tisonp TRS cables I bought and not my soldering or upgraded wires...
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Here is a close up shot of a German made wire I tried but returned.
It`s next to the rocket fish and then all three in one of the shots.
You can see the difference in the number of wires and thickness.
It`s next to the rocket fish and then all three in one of the shots.
You can see the difference in the number of wires and thickness.
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Look mate, you're seriously overthinking the whole thing. The real world physical requirements for a proper cable are low and very easy to meet. Sturdy plugs, robust coaxial cable, properly constructed, and done.
10€ in materials. Professional quality that can hardly be improved upon at all.
What you could and should improve upon though, judging by your pictures, is soldering quality. What you did there looks outright shoddy, and prone to eventual mechanical failure.
That counts way more than any obscure construction methods you're trying there that won't do a thing electrically, but only lead to more potential failure points mechanically.
The simpler, the better, and the easier to do properly.
Look up some basic tutorials about soldering and making audio cables. It's a simple handicraft everyone can learn to do properly with little effort and just some practice, that means you too.
10€ in materials. Professional quality that can hardly be improved upon at all.
What you could and should improve upon though, judging by your pictures, is soldering quality. What you did there looks outright shoddy, and prone to eventual mechanical failure.
That counts way more than any obscure construction methods you're trying there that won't do a thing electrically, but only lead to more potential failure points mechanically.
The simpler, the better, and the easier to do properly.
Look up some basic tutorials about soldering and making audio cables. It's a simple handicraft everyone can learn to do properly with little effort and just some practice, that means you too.
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The signal going to a subwoofer via a "subwoofer cable" is line-level. There are no large currents to worry about. It's totally fine if it's thin. The cable I use for my subwoofer is just like this one because it's what I had lying around, and there's zero issue:
Even these dirt cheap awful molded cables typically have thin, but still coxial cable. No problem with shielding at all.
Wouldn't that be wrought w/possible IMD eddy-currents, though!
Who gives a damn about such details when you can have fucking Fourier cables?
How awesome is that?
kemmler3D
Master Contributor
I made speaker cables out of Canare 4S11 once, it's massive overkill but once you get some heat shrink and nylon wrapping on there, it is aesthetically satisfying to have a nice thick, exactly-right-length cable on there.
I was sent on a campaign for just such a condition for Hyundai HD equipment and several Cat loaders. The material they used was aluminum with copper clad and it would NOT excite the sub amp via RCA cabling. They went to an all-copper conductor with rhodium plating over copper terminal ends for corrosion resistance. I was never dispatched back to those pieces of equipment for the same problem.
An upgrade can be as simple as the outside covering of PTFE or ARMOR (BTW, that is why it's called armor).
Size absolutely matters with bass response. The bigger the better to a point. If you have ever wired for an automotive car BASS competition, you will find out real quick what a smaller conductor will do if it comes loose or overheats. The vehicle burns right to the ground. I've personally seen it at least 12 fires at competitions and at least 4 burn right to the ground. .5 ohms at 30-50,000 watts, and a 30KW gen set to run the units is not uncommon.
Just because it's not common in the normal world doesn't make it so in the REAL world of competition or HD equipment. A set of 3-4 group 31 12VDC batteries will cause a hell of a ding dong with a bad starter motor coupled with loose connections. When cables get HOT, they get loose. That very much includes speaker cable to and from power amps to speaker drivers.
I have had more than one set of speaker terminals melt. The reason was vibration, causing the connection to become intermittent. Many times, the solution is to mechanically join the connections, solder, and protect/shrink tube with silicone jell shrink tubing. It's used all the time in marine work where salt and electrolysis are involved. The flimsy connectors with tin/aluminum conductors used in home stereo/HT systems usually can be replaced to provide better contact and a lot less trouble over protracted periods of time. One of the reasons I use 1/4-1/2 copper threaded lugs for bass speaker connection. A drop of blue Loctite never hurts, nor does a silicone blob to stop the nut from backing off.
1/2 of the speakers I repair are due to bad connections, either at the speaker terminals or the jumpers between sub/bass and mid/highs. Those cheap gold covered stamped jumpers can cause all kinds of problems.
Never underestimate the use of terminal enhancement products, either. They protect against corrosion and increase the contact surface area of any parent metal surfaces. They are required by LAW when using aluminum drop cabling from the pole to the house/shop main rails (usually tinned copper) in your home/shop/!
Tight is right, and loose will burn the house down.
Regards.
Who gives a damn about such details when you can have fucking Fourier cables?
How awesome is that?
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Please ask for quotas. We accept organs and firstborns.
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If you're sending 30-50kW at .5ohms through line level cabling, somebody did something very wrong.
After acquiring a new pair of replacement speakers, I pimped 'em with 12AWG, 10ft, 680strand, silicone cables.
I detest visible cables
, so I picked yellow and red colors for the silicone and then added yellow/red sheathing and yellow Did they make a difference?
Of course, they did!
Both my mate and the speakers like the in-yoh-face artsy look.
Oh please. How halfarsed is that?After acquiring a new pair of replacement speakers, I pimped 'em with 12AWG, 10ft, 680strand, silicone cables.
I detest visible cablesheat-shrinklipstick over the ferrite-cores.
View attachment 483162
Did they make a difference?
Of course, they did!
Both my mate and the speakers like the in-yoh-face artsy look.
4x 4mm² automotive (!) wire made in Germany (!), 8mm² (8AWG) effective total. Handweaved. Orange so it fits to the speaker fronts. Also: red is too warm. Yellow is too bright. Orange is the perfect middle ground, negative pole wires white and black for the perfect sonic balance on that side too.
The resolution, the detail, the balance, the 70 Ampere industrial grade safety limit.
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