Make your own Speaker wire and or cables RCA / TRS / XLR

[Earwax]

I Decided to DIY for my speaker wires for big savings and unmatched performance compared to what is actually available...

What you need to achieve this ultimate Mastery of a design is 2 different sized wires for each run of wires

Really would be helpful to have more actual audio science replies that are helpful this forum appears to be over run some days with no encouraging assistance or insight other times it`s pure genius with a talented knowledgeable reply or 2.

I`ll start with Speaker wires

Take your time and test fit the wires into the speaker binding posts before soldering and adding the professional finished looks you will most likely want a bit extra length of the exposed wire ends for plenty wiggle room when putting through the speaker binding posts...?

16 Gauge wire of good quality. The 2 brands I settled on using for my DIY designs where 16 Gauge Rocket fish for speaker wire but it`s not needed as it appears to be the same quality of the Monoprice Planate series 16 Gauge FLAT speaker wire and the flat wire is much easier to work with when making your own RCA, TRS & XLR cables due to it`s much thinner size.

24 Gauge speaker wire I just bought RCA brand.

Single strand of 16 and the full double strand 24 gauge strip and twist the ends together. Do this for both positive and negative wires.

( I am using one 24 gauge double strand along side the single strand 16 gauge for both positive and negative wires but also added a single strand of the 24 gauge to the mix just for curiosity it`s a bit tighter when using the 6mm heat shrink and probably not a noticeable difference in just using a double strand 24 gauge I only mentioned it to be honesT. ( I only used a single strand of the 24 Gauge wire along side the single strands of 16 Gauge wire in the RCA cable designs I made and it was a very noticeable upgrade so don`t sweat it have fun. )

If you can solder the ends of the wires I recommend having the ends soldered but it`s not needed. I`m just seeking absolute Purity and I already have a solder small station, also the copper won`t tarnish if it`s soldered just keep it light no thick globing.

6 mm Heat Shrink tubing ( Black & Red ) for the wire ends to keep it looking professional or just tape the wires at the ends for now... Suggested length about 4 inches for ease of use...

13mm Heat Shrink Tubing to secure the Expandable braided cable Sleeve wire cover or just use Black electrical tape if your not wanting a professional look...

If your using a flame to shrink the tubing think twice about the Expandable braided cable sleeve it has a very low melting point your going to melt it, try a hair drier wait to have someone with a heat gun do it.

14 mm Expandable braided Cable Sleeve. Different words are used for this type of wire cover, wire Sheathing, Wire Loom, braided sleeve.....

Take your time have some fun with this if you rush it Like I did my 1st design you`ll just wind up redoing the ends so making it Enjoyable not feeling like your Battling an Audiophile demon who wants secrets kept in the shadows is Key....

For the bridging wire`s if you need them be sure you keep the solder application minimal while ensuring you cover the copper or you will have to use pliers to squeeze down the size to fit both the speaker wire and bridging wires in opposite ends of the speaker binding posts. I learned this the hard way.

I also used the 6 mm Heat shrink tubing for the bridging wires it`s a bit snug with the fatter design Rocket fish 16 Gauge wires but the thinner flat white Monoprice 16 Gauge wire is not problems. I`ve used both for the speaker wire designs with the same outcome in purity.

If your not soldering and just twisting the wire ends then inserting the wires into the speaker binding posts will not be an issue unless your using larger Gauge wires you might have to, Not solder the ends...

I have found with my superior listening skills the quick connects have a degrading affect on the signal you can try it with and without speaker wire quick connections and listen for yourself.

I`m not wanting to start any debates on this thread it`s a DIY post and meant to be inspiring fun and insightful.

If you find the speaker binding posts keep getting loose you could use a lock tight type BLUE on the threads just a single dab you don`t cover the threads just one tiny dab is enough, You might be fine it was only an issue when I had globed too much solder on the wire ends due to adding wires in my earlier designs the binding posts would get loose but no issues on the B100 amps must be the threads are smoother on some bindings posts designs.

When you have large amounts of solder globed on the wires they will not give or bend so keeping the solder thin is KEY as that tiny amount of pressure when the wires give a bit is what keeps most speaker binding posts from undoing in my experiences..

To keep it uncluttered The Next upcoming Post: Making your own RCA / TRS / XLR cables same gauged wires.

 

[Earwax]

RCA Cable Wire performance upgrade

Make a mental note the higher quality RCA cables I bought and was using before have a housing I could undo and use only 22 gauge wires, not sure if that size is the standard or if they get even skimpier

If you have no real soldering experience it can be tricky as if you heat too much waiting for that mirror finish look on the solder the nylon ring around the center pin might deform a bit and pin will be misaligned so using the RCA extender plug mentioned below and in the picture is highly recommended.

I had it happen to me on 2 ends but they are still usable I was able to bend them back as it was very minor alignment issue just not ideal as you could damage your plug in port.

So gathering the wires having them pre twisted together and ends you want to be soldered to then having a professional do the soldering would be a great idea just ensure they use a RCA plug so the pin stays put.

16 Gauge flat wire, or you will most likely have to strip much more of the wires to make distance from the ends to make it easier to assemble and solder.. And you`ll need more heat shrink tubing for the exposed lengths of bare wire so the flat wire is best. But regular fatter speaker wire will do if that all you have just forget the housings and use heat shrink tubing in there place.

The flat wire is more of an issue when soldering TRS and XLR ends as you want as much space as you can get but again if your not concerned about using the housings you can probably get by using regular fat speaker wire.

XLR will be the most challenging if using fat wire and not the flat skinny wire I put in the images as you will probably want to use the housing due to it`s locking tab...

24 gauge wire.

Depending on the style of RCA ends you choose to work with, some have screw holes some have open top design, From my experience I`ve only used the screw design the a single strand 16 gauge and single strand 24 gauge will fit inside the port hole once the screws are removed as they are not used in my design.

With the screw designs I remove the screws install wires into the port slot and solder from the screw hole . The wires has been very secure so far it would take much effort to pull it out after soldering and if done right with a mirror finish the wires would be the breaking point. Cold solder points are just as good as cheap glue so have fun and take you time.

I haven't tried the open top solder designs the screw port is solid so no need for me personally to attempt something new.

Also soldering to the flat area of the housings is not a great idea as it`s thick and takes more time to heat up so more chance of the solder falling off after a few movements of the cables.

Another heat warning is to use RCA extender ends with female holes to prevent the positive pin from moving when soldering I added a picture below showing.
I`ve used 2 brands of RCA ends. The DIYLIVE & The Seawell deadbolt brand. Sewell I was NOT able to use the housing after soldering the negative wire so I just used heat shrink tubing to secure everything and make it look a bit better the ends don`t matter to me they are not out in the open and not an eye sore.

The DIYLIVE brand you can install the large part of the housing after soldering the positive wire then solder the negative wire in the lower screw hole then use heat shrink tubing as the tiny end ring will not fit over the soldered area.

So my opinion is to use the DIYLIVE in the picture below and is overseas online popular site I use only for less expensive purchase`s with no worry about returns.

13mm heat shrink tubing fits over both Seawell and DIYLIVE housings so if you wanted to add some professional look you can use it to secure the Expandable braided cable sleeve I use in the speaker wire post above.

Take notice that I have experienced a static noise in TRS cables that used a clear rubber tube to insulate between the housing, and the solder point wires and tabs did not have shrink wrap on them.

So if you have not used heat shrink tubing to cover the solder points and you are experiencing a static noise after using Heat shrink tubing instead of the housing I suggest you start your problem solving by removing the outer shrink wrap to see if that is the cause for static.

If that is you can buy liquid electrical tape apply to the exposed solder points allow it to cure then the static should not be present.

Maybe not related: I have also experience static when making a DIY adapter to use my Stethoscope hose with a quality mic to boost and record my heart beat and pulse in my neck.

Maybe not related but : I also have experienced voltage jumping ( voltage bleeding to exposed wires ) in my Jeep as a small part of the wire housing touched an extended bolt from the top of the engine and melted just enough to remove the insulation from a few wires I tried electrical tape on each individual wire but after it came loose and no changes to my gremlin infestation I bought the liquid electrical tape and too my surprise my power windows stopped acting up problem was solved the Gremlins were gone.. I later discovered it was due to voltage bleeding changing the voltage signal strength to the computer.

So I have become disciplined to ensure I take all the precautions I can think of when dealing with exposed wires and solder points inside a chamber of not.

I added 2 Pictures of the clear rubber tube used that appeared to be causing the static, take note that the shorter length Monoprice TRS cable did not have this clear tube and also had heat shrink around the solder points but it was not heated and shrunk nether was the larger heat shrink tube used to insulated between the housing this made it easy for me to check the quality of solder points and wire gauge and after my quality check and photo taking I used my heat gun to finish the job....
Peace.

Solder tip video:
There is more then one method it`s just adding hot solder to pot before you will burn off some rosin so this method looks better.

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[Earwax]

TRS Cable Wire performance upgrade

Mental note the TRS cables I bought and was using before my upgrade are pictured below with housings opened up you can see they are in fact 22 gauge wires after using the ends for my XLR to TRS wire upgrade I spiced the wires so I know for sure 22 Gauge. The Monoprice might be 24 gauge or just have a thicker jacket.

16 Gauge flat wire for easier assembly.

24 gauge wire

Pick your desired length and use single strand of 16 gauge and a double strand of the 24 gauge twist wire ends together. one of these sets of wire upgrade for all 3 tabs.

Depending on what design you purchase will reflect if you can use the housing as to very tight for some designs others will have more room for wires but personally I wouldn't get hung up on that. the heat shrink tubing will be enough and save you from trying to cram the housing over the wires unless you see one with a larger housing it all depends on what you want if you want pure copper tabs or ok with metal tabs to solder tonight not be able to find exactly what you want.

Also some have 3 tabs over 2 tabs with a tail.

The 3 tab design might be more secure as the tail might cause complications with possible solder failure some tail designs are thicker so solder might fall off after some movements.

You could drill a small hole in the tail of a 2 tab 1 tail design so make a more secure solder joint area, your choice have fun take your time.

I posted picture below so you can have a good ballpark idea of what you should be looking for.

You can buy the ends only or if you already have TRS cables you might be able to open them up and see if you can remove those pin head wires and join in on the fun and remove those skimpy wires then solder on some real wires.

If not you can find TRS ends with 3 tabs or 2 tabs with a tail.

Not all TRS cables housing are removable I`ve posted the ones I`ve found that are. I`ve had to return a few brands due to not blindly trusting any design if I can`t open it to see the quality of the solder points and wire gauge then I don`t want it .

13mm Heat shrink tubing might not fit over your TRS housing so be sure to dangle it on the wires before you solder so if you want to add the professional Expandable braided cable sleeve yo can secure it with the 13mm. or just size up the heat shrink if you forget.

Take notice that I have experienced a static noise in TRS cables that used a clear rubber tube to insulate between the housing, and the solder point wires and tabs did not have shrink wrap on them.

So if you have not used heat shrink tubing to cover the solder points and you are experiencing a static noise after using Heat shrink tubing instead of the housing I suggest you start your problem solving by removing the outer shrink wrap to see if that is the cause for static.

If that is you can buy liquid electrical tape apply to the exposed solder points allow it to cure then the static should not be present.

Maybe not related: I have also experience static when making a DIY adapter to use my Stethoscope hose with a quality mic to boost and record my heart beat and pulse in my neck.

Maybe not related but : I also have experienced voltage jumping ( voltage bleeding to exposed wires ) in my Jeep as a small part of the wire housing touched an extended bolt from the top of the engine and melted just enough to remove the insulation from a few wires I tried electrical tape on each individual wire but after it came loose and no changes to my gremlin infestation I bought the liquid electrical tape and too my surprise my power windows stopped acting up problem was solved the Gremlins were gone.. I later discovered it was due to voltage bleeding changing the voltage signal strength to the computer.

So I have become disciplined to ensure I take all the precautions I can think of when dealing with exposed wires and solder points inside a chamber of not.

I added Pictures of the clear rubber tube used that appeared to be causing the static, take note that the shorter length Monoprice TRS cable did not have this clear tube and also had heat shrink around the solder points but it was not heated and shrunk nether was the larger heat shrink tube used to insulated between the housing this made it easy for me to check the quality of solder points and wire gauge and after my quality check and photo taking I used my heat gun to finish the job....
Peace.


You can see the side by side picture comparisons below of the 2 TRS cable brands I wound up keeping for upgrading later as I wanted to enjoy my system while making the cables so ended up getting ends separately.

It`s not hard to wire TRS ends just make sure the wires match the solder tabs on each end and if using different brands for ether end double check the tip solder tab is on the same side they could be switched around from brand to brand.

I added 2 images showing the positive tip / negative ring and ground to sleeve.

Have fun

 

[Earwax]

XLR to TRS cable Wire performance upgrade.

Mental note the pre bought XLR to TRS cables I was using before my wire upgrade are pictured below with housings opened showing the solder points are in fact only 22 gauge wires...

I am using my wire upgraded XLR to TRS cables for my Pre amp to Amp connections.

Same 16 gauge Flat wire shown in pictures below

24 Gauge wire

Single strand of 16 gauge and a double strand 24 gauge for each run of wire to all three of the tabs.

You can use just 1 single strand of 24 gauge for each run of the 16 gauge the choice is yours it`s more time consuming and difficult to divide the 24 gauge wire strands as with the RCA wire 1 single strand of 24 gauge for each 16 gauge wire was a noticeable upgrade so ether will do.

Take your time double check and color code the wires to avoid a dumb moment

I`m still in the process of assembly and have ordered 2 different brands for the ends only and will post up when the high quality looking one arrives from over seas.

The other lower quality design is arriving to day, the prices of these connector ends is way out of control I`ve seen ends for over $60 of one single XLR, TRS and RCA connector ends. That is purely Bat shit crazy in my opinion.

The picture of the TRS- XLR cable with the opened housing I`m using already and it is good quality I just want to upgrade the wires so to be clear this is not my soldering or upgraded wires I bought it this way and will be cutting wire off and soldering my wires upgrade on.

I could remove the wires and solder on my upgrade design wires know but I wanted to take it slow and have fun with it so I ordered connector ends sperate so I can still enjoy the new pre amp.

I added some pictures of ends I found and wanted to try copper pins and solder points so didn't order the MFL even thought they are said to be comparable in quality to the Neutrik XLR ends as some of the cheaper ones people complain about the plastic melting but they might not have much soldering experience ???

EDITED : Researching before purchasing always helps I was hoping for more intelligent replies that would help but it`s looking a lot like the usual replies below

If you are new to making these cables & researching TRS to XLR be very mindful many people are mixing up the pin ( Tip ) and ring configuration and adding more confusion using terms like hot cold wires then mixing them around to the wrong configurations like hot + is left and right cold is -

Be sure you are 100% certain before soldering and trying. Double check the TRS solder tabs configuration they might have the tip tab on the other side in one TRS end you might purchase and but on the other side for a different brand. So right or left channel tab can be on ether side you need to look closely to ensure where the tip tab is located.

It appears the Stereo TRS Tip ( pin ) can be used for neg or positive in differing applications so more be sure your using the correct wire configuration if you are not using for Balanced audio Gear like mine.


Completed making and testing the XLR to TRS cable and so For a Balanced TRS end used for Pre amp to amp or other directly related gear the Tip is Positive the Ring is Negative and the Sleeve is used for Ground.

This matters greatly when making XLR to TRS if you mix up a wire the ground and negative wires sound could be a lower volume that is should be, I found this out the usual 1st attempt way.

XLR 3 pin wire configurations to be used as pin 1 ground pin 2 positive and pin 3 negative.

When making TRS to TRS you only have to match the same wire to the same solder tabs of each end not much to be confused about TRS to TRS but make sure the TIP tab is wired the same on both ends could be easy to cross wire them.

Best not to just blindly follow directions and double check your wiring from other sources to make certain you know for yourself then you will make no mistakes rushing through it like I did.

Added a Soldering XLR ends like a pro Video made by Biased Audio. Another method is to cut a piece of solder and place it in the pot area as seen in the solder video on my RCA ends post above.

Don`t forget to clean your solder iron tip after each solder point it is much needed for proper heat transfer.

I added a couple images to show the proper wire configurations as I have completed mine and I can Honestly with absolute certainty it is the correct wiring configuration.

Take notice that I have experienced a static noise in TRS cables that used a clear rubber tube to insulate between the housing, and the solder point wires and tabs did not have shrink wrap on them.

So if you have not used heat shrink tubing to cover the solder points and you are experiencing a static noise after using Heat shrink tubing instead of the housing I suggest you start your problem solving by removing the outer shrink wrap to see if that is the cause for static.

If that is you can buy liquid electrical tape apply to the exposed solder points allow it to cure then the static should not be present.

Maybe not related: I have also experience static when making a DIY adapter to use my Stethoscope hose with a quality mic to boost and record my heart beat and also the pulse in my neck.

Maybe not related but : I also have experienced voltage jumping ( voltage bleeding to exposed wires ) in my Jeep as a small part of the wire housing touched an extended bolt from the top of the engine and melted just enough to remove the insulation from a few wires I tried electrical tape on each individual wire but after it came loose and no changes to my gremlin infestation I bought the liquid electrical tape and too my surprise my power windows stopped acting up problem was solved the Gremlins were gone.. I later discovered it was due to voltage bleeding changing the voltage signal strength to the computer.

So I have become disciplined to ensure I take all the precautions I can think of when dealing with exposed wires and solder points inside a chamber of not.

I added Pictures of the clear rubber tube used that appeared to be causing the static, take note that the shorter length Monoprice TRS cable did not have this clear tube and also had heat shrink around the solder points but it was not heated and shrunk nether was the larger heat shrink tube used to insulated between the housing this made it easy for me to check the quality of solder points and wire gauge and after my quality check and photo taking I used my heat gun to finish the job....
Peace.

Enjoy

 

[Earwax]

With the RCA cable wire upgrade I noticed a volume boost as the L30 II now when volume dial all the way down to the lowest volume available it`s much louder then before I can`t say if it is possible for it to be an ohms resistance related upgrade and I don`t trust random people to give a truthful answer so the truth will eventually surface, or not...

Curious coincidence the pre bought RCA cables I was using are only 22 gauge wires and my upgrade uses 16 gauge and 24 gauge.

Now I have to use low gain if a want super quite.

In my bedroom I use the D50II dac to L30II pre amp mode to the HK AVR 140 amp that is at maximum digital volume level to my older designed JBL N28 large book shelf speakers also with the speaker wire upgrade and all RCA cables in that chain have my upgraded wire design.

Also the purity is much improved it`s well worth it.

Yes this post will ruffle many with related items to sell so I hope they don`t see it and start with there usual forum clutter attacks and mindless games of twisted explanations why or why not or side tracking gibberish and insults.

Would be a nice stress free change of pace to have a helpful idea exchanging clean thread with some of those Genius level replies that actual encourage and assists us all

I made sure to take the time to post all of it up to avoid those corrupted situations and will edit the posts with more detail and assisting information when I have more time.

Peace.

Another helpful video tip for soldering XLR pins make sure they are not hollow all the way through for female or have splits in them for male watch the clip for obvious explanation.

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[Devnull]

What exactly is the "performance" upgrade?

 

[Earwax]

You might be surprised to see the size of the minuscule wire used in your Subwoofer cable, the lower frequencies are current hogs and I find in very concerning as far as audio performance and purity of the source making to the subwoofer.

I upgraded my sub wire to 16 gauge wire but then literally I stopped using that system with my 10 inch JBL woofer so can`t honestly say of improvements in purity but if your a subwoofer guy it`s worth the attempt.

I don`t use my subwoofer I`m just not a fan anymore and selling it due to buying new speakers with much low bass extension improvement of 33 hz with an accuracy of ( -6db)

Stereo bass

 

[sam_adams]

⟵

 

[Earwax]

What exactly is the "performance" upgrade?

They look rich

Your going to have to make one of them yourself and listen for yourself I didn't just spend hours of my time sharing this for kicks...

I apologize but it`s crazy how many people are attacked on forums when trying to explain something that others have not experienced.

Having 2 different gauged wires appears to allow the lower current hogging frequencies to horde one wire so now the higher frequencies can follow a path of less resistance on the smaller wire allowing no shortage of even the most delicate frequencies of both low and high frequencies to have an easy & joyful path.

This is my insight and proven in my listening tests using my purist instruments my Ears, Brain, Mind and Emotions for instincts and of course my Guardian Angel is always a blessing , but then I`m no Audio scientist or engineer nor do I have any formal education in any related areas.

All I will say is try it, you having nothing to lose, I have no financial profit from this sharing of intelligence.

That said I`m sure many mindless insults are on the way from those who are blind or unwilling to try something for themselves as the printed text is where all their faith lies.

 

[JustJones]

 

[DVDdoug]

If you enjoy making cables, or if you can save money, fine.

I like molded cables so i buy them. I don't build cables unless I need something special and a few times I've bought cables and cut them to use the molded end, and then solder something else on the other end.

For speaker wires I usually just use plain 16AWG copper wire, and sometimes screw-on banana plugs. You can often get-away with thinner wire (higher gauge) but a lot of people use 14 or 12 gauge, especially with longer runs.

With the RCA cable wire upgrade I noticed a volume boost as the L30 II now when volume dial all the way down to the lowest volume available it`s much louder then before must be an ohms resistance related upgrade.

That can't happen unless you are comparing RCA to XLR balanced which often have different signal levels or different gain/sensitivity (the equipment, not the cables), or unless a cable is defective.

See this short video: Are Dirt Cheap Cables Any Good?

 

[JustJones]

How do you know the low frequencies travel in the thick wire and the high frequencies in the thin wire? Have you tried a third medium wire for the mid frequencies?

 

[Earwax]

Well that didn't take long not even one hour and already being told I`m stupid and or completely confused and must have a Hearing deficiency

All I will say is before you put all your faith into that printed text no matter what powers printed it may have more than a few short comings.

George Carlin talking about the powers at be is Worth a laugh if you haven`t seen his shows yet.

At least try it for yourself then come back and ridicule me for attempting to enlighten people.

There is a reason this has been buried from mainstream knowledge for so long as profits used to be King of all industries, any grown Man or Women has experienced this fact in many arena`s...

So that being said you will have to see for yourselves no one is going to wrap it up in pretty package for you, You have to do the work yourselves or just give in and not try.

Sharing information and factual real life experiences.

 

[Ropeburn]

How do you know the low frequencies travel in the thick wire and the high frequencies in the thin wire? Have you tried a third medium wire for the mid frequencies?

Smiley curve cables!

 

[JSmith]

At least try it for yourself then come back and ridicule me for attempting to enlighten people.

You're not enlightening anyone, just spreading misinformation. No one is saying you have a hearing deficiency, it's not personal, it's just normal human biases at play.

Many of us make our own cables and like having solid connectors and terminations, but there is no performance upgrade to be had.


JSmith

 

[Devnull]

They look rich

Your going to have to make one of them yourself and listen for yourself I didn't just spend hours of my time sharing this for kicks...

I apologize but it`s crazy how many people are attacked on forums when trying to explain something that others have not experienced.

Having 2 different gauged wires appears to allow the lower current hogging frequencies to horde one wire so now the higher frequencies can follow a path of less resistance on the smaller wire allowing no shortage of even the most delicate frequencies of both low and high frequencies to have an easy & joyful path.

This is my insight and proven in my listening tests using my purist instruments my Ears, Brain, Mind and Emotions for instincts and of course my Guardian Angel is always a blessing , but then I`m no Audio scientist or engineer nor do I have any formal education in any related areas.

All I will say is try it, you having nothing to lose, I have no financial profit from this sharing of intelligence.

That said I`m sure many mindless insults are on the way from those who are blind or unwilling to try something for themselves as the printed text is where all their faith lies within.

I'm glad you enjoy your cables.

Why do you think low frequencies are current hogging and the high frequencies will be on the smaller wire? Did you read something about skin effect and current density, transmission line theory?

 

[Chrispy]

What a weird post.

 

[xanalog]

I think the only discussion of length (for your DIY "Haute Parleur" cable) was the package' photo showing 100 ft.
I don't see neither a "single strand" or a "double strand" cable, in the included photos.
You should add some "triple strand" 12AWG for subs.

 

[Ropeburn]

I think the only discussion of length (for your DIY "Haute Parleur" cable) was the package' photo showing 100 ft.
I don't see neither a "single strand" or a "double strand" cable, in the included photos.
You should add some "triple strand" 12AWG for subs.
View attachment 482903

Come on. Lasers are cool and stuff, but for real performance you need magnets. Infinite power!

Literally OP

 

[Sir Sanders Zingmore]

How do you know the low frequencies travel in the thick wire and the high frequencies in the thin wire? Have you tried a third medium wire for the mid frequencies?

Why stop there?
I suggest hundreds (or thousands) of wires, each with different thickness optimised for each frequency