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Lyngdorf TDAI-1120 questions

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Has anybody upgraded the output caps to Dueland copper. A person did this on the 2170 and said.. a magnificient improvement.. plus he had better internal wiring.
No, but is there a thread where we can read about it? Or even better a show and tell. I’m probably not going to do it myself, but still curious.
 

ThomasT

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This is what he/she wrote.. ''I replaced the Wima .47uf set of capacitors at the output, used for final filtering, with Duelund CAST tinned copper capacitors. These cost me over $400. They are simply the best. - added Jupiter copper foil. 01 uf bypass capacitors to the Duelunds for perfect filtering of the highest frequencies. - replaced the standard internal hook up wire going from the circuit board to the binding posts with the wonderful stranded silver/gold wire. Double runs to each post. This wire sells for over $15 per foot and has perfect tone. - Wired the Furutech IEC with Neotech solid core copper wire and adding the Mad Scientist Kegs (3) to each leg - replaced the cheaper IEC on/off switch with a nice Furutech IEC and did away with the tiny on/off switch as it was a sonic bottleneck in the power supply. When the unit is plugged in it is in standby mode. Press the front power button and the unit turns fully on for operation. - applied damping material to the chassis - treated the complete unit with Total Contact from Perfect Path Audio. This paste is applied in a very thin layer over key components. It is amazing stuff and costs $300 for a tiny 1.5 ML vile. Helps block EMI/RFI.
 

mika91

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No offense, but I think this kind of post is precisely what this forum is trying to demystify.

Talk about wires with neutral sound, magic paste, cheap (??!) 400$ capacitors replacement, sound improved at least 30-35% (what does it even means!!!), ... and no measures or any scientific arguments to prove/explain it.

Personally, I try to keep open-minded (and curious as @spacebar) so this kind of post doesn't bother me, but some could argue that is not the spirit of the forum.
 

ThomasT

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I'm the messenger.. just planning to get/maybe upgrade the 1120. I have read that so many parameters, many not even measurable, maybe not yet.. that affect the purity of the reproduced sound/music, due the the extreme sensitivity of our ear/brain/device.. so I explore and inquire from those who enjoy the upgrade/mod scene.. If you find the discussion offensive to your taste or to this forum's ideals, you can always ask the mods to delete it and ban me.. I care not.
 

mika91

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If you find the discussion offensive to your taste or to this forum's ideals, you can always ask the mods to delete it and ban me.. I care not.
As I said, no offense for me ^^ (and I certainly won’t ask to ban anyone)
 
OP
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I would love to see some measurements after the mods. My only problem is how he described the parts/changes. Like “simply the best”, “perfect filtering”, “sonic bottleneck” and so on... I believe he’s just chasing the perfect sound and that’s not bad, but in my opinion you have to back it up with some data.

But thumbs up for sharing and also be critical. From reading both of your posts, we are all just curious:)

My curiosity got me to do some “audio measurements” in REW because of some hiss from my speakers. Not very loud and probably nothing wrong either, but wanted to see if I could get some data on it.
 

ThomasT

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I would love to see some measurements after the mods. My only problem is how he described the parts/changes. Like “simply the best”, “perfect filtering”, “sonic bottleneck” and so on... I believe he’s just chasing the perfect sound and that’s not bad, but in my opinion you have to back it up with some data.

But thumbs up for sharing and also be critical. From reading both of your posts, we are all just curious:)

My curiosity got me to do some “audio measurements” in REW because of some hiss from my speakers. Not very loud and probably nothing wrong either, but wanted to see if I could get some data on it.
The write up was part of his 'amp for Sale' data.. he sold the amp.. so unlikely to see measuremnts. I guess he did it by.. LISTENING. I often read that variations in heard elements in reproduced music.. are un-measuranle.. at this time anyway. If you enjoy real music, as I do, go to the Vienna Philharmonic for just one concert, after CV, and bask in it's glory. No amouint of fiddling, measuring etc will reach that.
 

ThomasT

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Had a correspondence with Lyngdorf.. no they won't bring out a hot-rod version as that would be 2X the price. Also, if we fiddle, they say, we lose the guarantee.. but for say 30% improvement.. why not fiddle? Guess we'll just have to explore more.. I read V-Cap ODAMs, not so pricey, seem to be today's flavor. Anybody opened their 1120 and noted number and value of the output caps?
 

vlader

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These days I changed my speakers, I used to have a pair of Dali Oberon 1s (small bookshelves) + a small sub, upgraded to Dali Rubicon 6 floorstanders, normally too large for my room, but not with RoomPerfect. :) I'm actually even more impressed with RoomPerfect with the new setup. Perhaps when I had the sub I was not adjusting its volume properly, and then had to manually EQ the bass.

Anyway, now that I'm not using a sub anymore, I wanted to try using headphones with the 1120, and it's supposed to have a Headphone mode on the line out, but I don't see it. I only have Crossover, Full Range and Tape Out.

Is anyone else using headphones with this amp?
 

vlader

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I asked Lyngdorf support about headphones, and it seems it was mistakenly included in the manual. This is what they replied to me:

I am sorry to say that this is a fault in the manual that was only very recently discovered. The headphone function was never implemented in the 1120, but the text was copied from the 2170 manual.
The workaround is to apply these settings:
Line out: Advanced
Routing: Full range
Level: -12, depending on the sensitivity of your headphone amp this could be set differently, but the output level of the amp is quite high.
Eq: Custom - you can then design a custom filter for this output, this is effectively a voicing. You can save several custom EQ's but they will only be available from the web setup, not the app.
Output level control: set to Full scale - this is assuming your headphone amp has its own volume control!

This is a workaround and there are downsides. You need to disable Room Perfect manually, and Mute will affect the output so you need to turn down the main volume manually. It is not perfect but it will work.
 
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Do you guys think that the 2170 is a better value? Also can I buy a 2170 and add on an hdmi module after or does it have to be purchased with it?
 

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Do you guys think that the 2170 is a better value? Also can I buy a 2170 and add on an hdmi module after or does it have to be purchased with it?
I think it depends on what you define as value. For me, it is almost double the price (A$7500 vs A$4000) with the HDMI. Not sure if you can buy it separately. I think it depends if you need the extra power of the 2170 vs the extra features of the 1120. I would love the 1120 if only it had more power.
 
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I think it depends on what you define as value. For me, it is almost double the price (A$7500 vs A$4000) with the HDMI. Not sure if you can buy it separately. I think it depends if you need the extra power of the 2170 vs the extra features of the 1120. I would love the 1120 if only it had more power.
I would be getting a used 2170 for about 2k usd. A new model would be out of budget for the 2170. Does the 1120 have any other additional features over the 2170?
 

dougi

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I would be getting a used 2170 for about 2k usd. A new model would be out of budget for the 2170. Does the 1120 have any other additional features over the 2170?
I think it is more modern, with streaming stuff and the app control, including custom house curve/s. I stand to be corrected though.
 

RopV

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Thanks @symphara. I see there's only one output on the 1120 indeed. I do not plan to add subwoofer, I own a pair of focal 926 which sounds good enough (to me). My intuitive "fear of inconstancy" was based on my understanding that my "architecture" choice will convert the 1120 digital to analog signal, then 2400 will get analog as an intput and digitalize it again. Maybe It doesn't really matter, and I should just forget about these details and consider my 1120 as trusted analog pre-amp source for the 2400, like any other one.

I think a have a similar question/situation. I am also a newbie :)
Bought a TDA 1120 a while ago, but now I move to a much bigger room (>50m2).

Found 2 W210's for sale, with an SDA 2175 to power them.

Is it possible to use the 2 analog outs from de TDAI to the SDA for powering the W-210 woofers only?
So that the current speakers (Focal 816s, 8Ohm) become the "satellites".
Would this unstress the speakers AND the little TDAI?

Or would it be a better idea to start saving for 2 sets of MH-2/BW-2 or MH-3/BW-3 ?

Any advice is much appreciated!
Rop
 

AdamG

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I think a have a similar question/situation. I am also a newbie :)
Bought a TDA 1120 a while ago, but now I move to a much bigger room (>50m2).

Found 2 W210's for sale, with an SDA 2175 to power them.

Is it possible to use the 2 analog outs from de TDAI to the SDA for powering the W-210 woofers only?
So that the current speakers (Focal 816s, 8Ohm) become the "satellites".
Would this unstress the speakers AND the little TDAI?

Or would it be a better idea to start saving for 2 sets of MH-2/BW-2 or MH-3/BW-3 ?

Any advice is much appreciated!
Rop
Welcome Aboard @RopV.
 

dougi

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I think a have a similar question/situation. I am also a newbie :)
Bought a TDA 1120 a while ago, but now I move to a much bigger room (>50m2).

Found 2 W210's for sale, with an SDA 2175 to power them.

Is it possible to use the 2 analog outs from de TDAI to the SDA for powering the W-210 woofers only?
So that the current speakers (Focal 816s, 8Ohm) become the "satellites".
Would this unstress the speakers AND the little TDAI?

Or would it be a better idea to start saving for 2 sets of MH-2/BW-2 or MH-3/BW-3 ?

Any advice is much appreciated!
Rop
You certainly can. It is quite flexible in "subwoofer" setup as you will have seen from the manual. You can even try the high (400 Hz or more) crossover frequency that Lyngdorf recommends for their corner and boundary woofer speakers.
 

RopV

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Thanks Dougi. I read some more, and i see it is possible. But would you advise me to do so? My (big) room isn't quite ready yet, and maybe I can buy these woofers + sda 2175 for about 1300 Euro's..

Music I listen to can also be very bass heavy (Boris Brejcha, Massive Attack), and I really like it whem it is not muddy (..) English is not my mother language, but I think that is a word that is used..

The alternative (2x BW-2 + 2x MH-2) would set me back a lot more, and I am not sure the little TDAI has the power to drive those ?
I like listening hard, from time to time, and this weekend I had it all the way open .. That was too loud, for me, OK, but all my other amps so far I never went beyond 80% or so..
 

dougi

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Thanks Dougi. I read some more, and i see it is possible. But would you advise me to do so? My (big) room isn't quite ready yet, and maybe I can buy these woofers + sda 2175 for about 1300 Euro's..

Music I listen to can also be very bass heavy (Boris Brejcha, Massive Attack), and I really like it whem it is not muddy (..) English is not my mother language, but I think that is a word that is used..

The alternative (2x BW-2 + 2x MH-2) would set me back a lot more, and I am not sure the little TDAI has the power to drive those ?
I like listening hard, from time to time, and this weekend I had it all the way open .. That was too loud, for me, OK, but all my other amps so far I never went beyond 80% or so..
It's up to you, but it sounds a reasonably priced solution to providing more, controlled bass and relieving some load from the TDAI1120. It will still require care in step and experimentation with delays, crossover types and frequencies. I would still recommend before/after REW room measurements to see what RoomPerfect did.
 
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