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Loxjie A30 Amplifier Review

pandaking

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This is the last time ;)

Loxjie a30:

input | used DAC

coaxial -> Sabre ES9023
rca -> Sabre ES9023
optical -> Sabre ES9023
usb -> Realtek ALC4050
BT -> qualcom

Choose yourself ...
Thank you for this. I can see connecting to the A30 via USB/Bluetooth is not ideal.

Do you know if the DAC used in connecting my macbook via USB to my Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 v2 is better than the A30's realtek?
 

Helicopter

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Hi everyone

I recently got this Loxje A30 amp, running from my macbook via USB, then hooked up to a pair of KEF LF50 Metas.

I've read a few times in this thread that the A30's built in USB DAC leaves a little to be desired.

I also own a Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 v2. Would the DAC in the Focusrite be better than the one build into the Loxje A30?

I found this review of the Scarlett:

I also own an apple usb dongle:

Unfortunately, I don't know enough to interpret the graphs/review of the A30 vs Scarlett DACs to work out which is better. Help!? o_O
You are better off with the digital inputs on the A30 because the weakest potential point in the system is the A30's analog input.

That said, everything is competently done on both devices, so if you want to use the other features of the 2i2, the A30's analog inputs aren't bad, they just aren't as good as its digital inputs.
 

pandaking

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You are better off with the digital inputs on the A30 because the weakest potential point in the system is the A30's analog input.

That said, everything is competently done on both devices, so if you want to use the other features of the 2i2, the A30's analog inputs aren't bad, they just aren't as good as its digital inputs.
Ahhh that's really interesting. I think I understand what you're saying here, thank you.

So basically, my next best bet as an upgrade to my setup is a new USB DAC, then from that use the optical input on the A30?

So much to learn here. Thanks for all the help for a newbie.
 

Kuppenbender

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Ahhh that's really interesting. I think I understand what you're saying here, thank you.

So basically, my next best bet as an upgrade to my setup is a new USB DAC, then from that use the optical input on the A30?

So much to learn here. Thanks for all the help for a newbie.
You don’t need a new DAC, just a usb to optical/coaxial adapter such as Doug Audio U2 USB converter
 

zim2411

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The A30 unfortunately didn't work with my C-Notes. I had the exact same issue as these folks: hooking them up normally, I get nothing but a periodic popping sound from the speakers about 1 second apart - some sort of "protection mode" I'm guessing. Placing a resistor inline with the speaker wire makes them work, but there's a constant static/hissing sound coming out of the A30.

So I've seen this issue reported with the Polk XT20s twice, the Overnight Sensations once, and the C-Notes once. Maybe the MA12070 (or Loxjie's implementation of it) doesn't like something about the crossover design with these speakers. Or, seeing as half of the reports are DIY, it could be faulty assembly of the crossover.

Now to decide if I want to try another amp with the same chip, or just give up on the MA12070 entirely and get an Aiyima A07 or something. It sucks, there are so few options with remote volume control :(

Chiming in to say I got hit with this issue with one pair of Overnight Sensations -- but here's the crazy thing, my other pair built in 2013 work! We have two pairs in my household, my original set was from 2013 and purchased from Parts Express. The newer pair was built in 2021 and is from DIYSoundGroup's kit. The newer DIYSG based ones cause the amp to click, pop, hiss, etc. My original set work fine, and I also tested with Monitor Audio Bronze 5's, and an old pair of Advents. We had hooked the Loxjie up to the newer set of Overnight Sensations and after much debugging assumed the A30 was just totally defective, I finally spotted one Amazon review that called out the Overnight Sensations as problematic and then tested some more and confirmed.

I've never heard of a passive speaker causing an amp to behave like this, especially when it works fine on other amps. We were using this pair with a SMSL SA50 just fine. Could anyone explain why this happens? Either way I'm sending the Loxjie back, which is a shame because it's otherwise nice.
 

linuxfan

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The A30 is based on Infineon MERUS™ MA12070P
I believe this is wrong - the Loxjie A30 has the Merus MA12070 amplifier chip, not the MA12070P. Refer to the text and image on the official Loxjie product page -
http://www.loxjie-audio.com/productshow.asp?id=157
That means the amplifier chip's inputs are analogue, not digital.
You are better off with the digital inputs on the A30 because the weakest potential point in the system is the A30's analog input.
That would be wrong, then.
That's not to say that the digital inputs are "bad" - at least for the coaxial and optical s/pdif inputs - for these the Loxjie includes an inbuilt ES9023 DAC. The ES9023 is old-tech, but very good.
Unfortunately the A30's USB input goes through a rather mediocre Realtek USB interface/DAC.
 

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linuxfan

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I've read a few times in this thread that the A30's built in USB DAC leaves a little to be desired.
I also own a Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 v2. Would the DAC in the Focusrite be better than the one build into the Loxjie A30?
Yes, I suspect the 2i2 would get you better sound quality than using the A30's USB input.
Go ahead and test, and trust your ears.
 
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scannypack

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The DAC discussion here for USB input versus optical is dizzying. I wonder if some people are confusing louder (via optical input) as better. A common misconception in audio.

Where in the specs or schematic does it actually specify that USB bypasses the saber DAC chip? Has Loxjie confirmed that?

I am open to buying the Douk Audio U2 converter if that will make a difference in audio quality (not volume). At $55 on Amazon and considering the very low price I paid for the A30, it would not be a hard pill to swallow. I absolutely don’t need louder — my setup is for desktop audio and my head is 3 feet from my speakers. I’m running the A30 at around 20 on the volume control. But I do want high quality audio.

I will add that it sucks the display does not show the sample rate when using USB input, but it does for optical. Why the hell...
 

scannypack

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Someone asked about connectors for the amplifier terminals. For my main speakers I am using banana connectors. For sending high level signal to my subwoofer (I am not using the subwoofer out), I’m using these Parts Express gold spade lugs on the A30 binding posts. https://www.parts-express.com/Gold-Spade-16-14-AWG-8-2-Pair-095-673

It is a very tight fit in the back of the amp, but I have one spade snugly fitting around each of the 4 binding posts. They basically only fit in one orientation — kind of a diagonal fit. It’s tight, but there is enough space. I do recommend these.
 

titilandus

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The DAC discussion here for USB input versus optical is dizzying. I wonder if some people are confusing louder (via optical input) as better. A common misconception in audio.

Where in the specs or schematic does it actually specify that USB bypasses the saber DAC chip? Has Loxjie confirmed that?

I am open to buying the Douk Audio U2 converter if that will make a difference in audio quality (not volume). At $55 on Amazon and considering the very low price I paid for the A30, it would not be a hard pill to swallow. I absolutely don’t need louder — my setup is for desktop audio and my head is 3 feet from my speakers. I’m running the A30 at around 20 on the volume control. But I do want high quality audio.

I will add that it sucks the display does not show the sample rate when using USB input, but it does for optical. Why the hell...
But have you looked at this topic carefully?
 

linuxfan

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You don’t need a new DAC, just a usb to optical/coaxial adapter
I am open to buying the Douk Audio U2 converter
This notion of adding a USB-to-s/pdif converter to the A30 seems popular, but in my opinion this is a convoluted configuration, and not good value overall.
What you are doing is converting one digital interface protocol to another, to adapt to the A30's "good" digital input.
I think that money would be better put towards the purchase of a good entry-level standalone DAC, such as the Topping E30II or SMSL Sanskrit 10th MKIII. That gives you flexibility if/when you change your amplifier in the future.
 

michael2v

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Hello, I bought the Loxjie A30 and I have a problem with it.

Before buying, I made 1.5mm2 (16awg) pure copper wires with a length of 1m (40in) to connect the columns (8ohm) with new amp. After connecting, the loudspeakers didn’t work, they made a clicking sound about every 1s. Heaving in mind that wires are hand-made, I connected to amp the first wires I could find – short wires of standart quality (img below).

I hope you've long since sorted this out by now so just wanted to leave a note for posterity, but I believe this is actually an issue with the MA12070 chip used in the A30. Search for "Clicking noise from DIY speakers on new amp" on diyAudio, where a user was having the same exact issue with an SMSL SA300 amp, which uses the same chip (I only stumbled across it because I also just built a pair of Overnight Sensations speakers and was planning to use the SA300, and was having the exact same infuriating issue). The only solution seems to be modifying the crossover, but I didn't want to mess with the crossover after I'd assembled it (which also isn't an option for manufactured speakers!), so I ended up switching to an Aiyima A07 and it works great.

Edit: I just noticed that @zim2411 was having the same problem, they must have changed the crossover layout in the OS kit in recent years (though I can't credibly explain why it doesn't work, something to do with output inductors and capacitive loads putting the amp into protection mode).
 
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almosely

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Hi everyone,

I've been reading here for years and I love the forum very much! :)

But now I actually have a specific question that I can't really find an answer to in the vastness of the internet.

I just ordered a Loxjie A30 for my TV and a pair of Wharfedale 11.1 speakers and an Elac Sub 3010. My TV has an optical output. I got the 11.1 for 200 EUR (pair price).


The Wharfedale 11.1 should have an impedance of 8 ohms and a minimum of 4 ohms. In fact, this was tested differently there, namely with two impedance dips that go down to 1.9 and 2 ohms.


I don't listen at disco volume anymore, but usually very quietly. But every now and then there could be a higher room volume if I feel like listening to music.

Can the A30 drive the Wharfedale 11.1 with ease, or are the two low impedances potentially detrimental to the A30 and/or the Wharfedale 11.1?

Alternatively, I could get the Wharfedale 12.1 and send back the 11.1 untested, but they would cost EUR 340 (pair price). However, these were tested here with higher ohms.


Many thanks for your information in advance!
 

almosely

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Have the bedroom setup complete now.
Wiim Mini > Loxjie A30 running a pair of Wharfedale 11.1.
Fed exlusively via Tidal Connect directly from the Tidal App. That just works. Havent opened the Wiim App since setup.

Quite happy with that. The A30 has absolutely no problem driving the 11.1.
And while it obviously sounds different than my living room setup (X4700h + Triangle Borea 5.0 surround setup) i would have a hard time right now to argue that the living room setup is worth so much more when just listening to music ^^
Everything is still alright with the A30 and Wharfedale 11.1? Is the A30 getting hot? Do you listen loud sometimes? What's your max. volume you turn the A30 up to?
 

AdamG

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Hi everyone,

I've been reading here for years and I love the forum very much! :)

But now I actually have a specific question that I can't really find an answer to in the vastness of the internet.

I just ordered a Loxjie A30 for my TV and a pair of Wharfedale 11.1 speakers and an Elac Sub 3010. My TV has an optical output. I got the 11.1 for 200 EUR (pair price).


The Wharfedale 11.1 should have an impedance of 8 ohms and a minimum of 4 ohms. In fact, this was tested differently there, namely with two impedance dips that go down to 1.9 and 2 ohms.


I don't listen at disco volume anymore, but usually very quietly. But every now and then there could be a higher room volume if I feel like listening to music.

Can the A30 drive the Wharfedale 11.1 with ease, or are the two low impedances potentially detrimental to the A30 and/or the Wharfedale 11.1?

Alternatively, I could get the Wharfedale 12.1 and send back the 11.1 untested, but they would cost EUR 340 (pair price). However, these were tested here with higher ohms.


Many thanks for your information in advance!
Welcome Aboard @almosely , we are glad you have rejected the Lurking “Dark Side”. :cool:
 

Pouyoux

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You don’t need a new DAC, just a usb to optical/coaxial adapter such as Doug Audio U2 USB converter
For people who want to go the optical way and save some bucks (well who doesn't ? :) ) I have a cheaper way to do it : instead of converting USB -> Optical I'm using an HDMI audio extractor -> optical instead. It's cheaper, 70€ for doug converter vs 26€ for this audio extractor.

Obviously it does work for audio sources with HDMI output (PC, raspberry, android tv boxes etc ) and not for phones.
 

almosely

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The Wharfedale 11.1s are working allright, as far as I can say, after the few days. I am hearing between 13-25 of 60 volume, depending on mood and source, sitting 3m away. But I will not keep the 11.1s - lack of quality.

But I miss a simple balance option within the A30. And Loudness would be fine too. Both very simple functions, found within almost every amp for almost ever.

And I would love a simple 5-band EQ. Without that it is so hard to find speakers that sound like my taste just out of the box. And a "night"-function would be so helpful. Even my 11 years old TV has an EQ and Night-Mode and SRS Surround and SRS Dialogue and that one is only to display moving pictures plus a bit sound and not a dedicated amp.

Is there something out there with all that the A30 does plus all or some of the above functions missing, not priced insanely high and big like all the common AVRs? Could be a DAC+Amp combo, but not more than 250€ together.

And a dedicated LFE should be able to be controlled (frequency) but not sending out a fixed sound profile, alomost useless (way too much high frequencies). Some subs like the Polk HTS 10 are assuming the LFE input is pre-filtered and so the internal filter is not available and so the sub cannot be used with the A30 at all.

Such simple and essential things just missing but could (and should) be available with no extra cost ...
 
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