Low-powered stereo amplifier recommendations?

[NTomokawa]

Currently using a Luxman L-3 integrated amplifier (circa 1978 vintage) driving Energy ESM-2 speakers, with a Topping D10 DAC feeding into it.

The amplifier is rated at 35 (some sources say 42) wpc into 8 ohms at 0.002% THD. It sounds great except for some audible hiss when I put my ear up to the tweeters, even with the volume knob at zero.

Now I can get a guy to overhaul this machine (replace capacitors and such) but I would like to upgrade to something modern.

Considering how I barely need to have the volume knob at 10% to get the speakers to play loud, I'm thinking I won't need anything more than 50 wpc into 8 ohms.

I've looked at stuff from Topping and SMSL but I'm put off by the lack of objective measurements and (most importantly) the lack of UL/ETL/CSA/ENEC/TUV certificates.

Any recommendations? Thanks!

EDIT: I have uploaded some files pertaining to the Luxman L-3. I don't doubt that these specs have long since deteriorated though.

 

[NTomokawa]

Anyone? Anyone?

Mueller?

 

[jasonq997]

That's a cool amp.

Regarding your question -- How about something like the new Yamaha or Onkyo integrated amps? They are probably more powerful than you claim you want, but who cares? Why the power limit?

 

[NTomokawa]

Why the power limit?

So that I can actually use the volume knob.

With the L-3 I can barely turn the knob past 15%.

 

[RayDunzl]

Considering how I barely need to have the volume knob at 10% to get the speakers to play loud, I'm thinking I won't need anything more than 50 wpc into 8 ohms.

.

Luxman L3

Input sensitivity: 2.5mV (MM), 145mV (line)

Assuming you are feeding the Luxman with a DAC, and the DAC outputs 2V, the "volume knob" has to attenuate the signal by 22 DB just to get the output down to "wide open".

Insert a 10dB attenuator on the line inputs, maybe a 20dB attenuator would be better..

That will give you more range on the volume knob when playing from a DAC.

Something like this:

https://www.ebay.com/i/391074869008?chn=ps

Go shopping.

Example with more explanation: http://www.rothwellaudioproducts.co.uk/html/attenuators.html

---

On the other hand, a modern unit will not have such a sensitive input as above.

Buying a new amp could be an expensive fix for a simple problem.

 

[NTomokawa]

.Insert a 10dB attenuator on the line inputs, maybe a 20dB attenuator would be better..

Yes, I'm feeding it with a Topping D10.

I've thought about line attenuators long ago. The issue is that I don't have know whether line attenuators are measurably transparent. Furthermore, since I'll have to get them in pairs, they need to be volume-matched.

Regardless, I might steer towards the "overhaul the amp by a guy" path.

 

[RayDunzl]

The issue is that I don't have know whether line attenuators are measurably transparent.

Define "measurably transparent".

 

[RayDunzl]

They're (most likely) resistive voltage dividers.

The Lux has 50k ohm input impedance.

The result should be "no problem".

 

[NTomokawa]

Define "measurably transparent".

Simple.

Take a given DAC/amplifier and measure it the way Amir measures it. Or whichever way you'd like.

Now repeat the exact same measurements but with the line attenuators in place. Level-match the output to the previous measurement. Compare results.

Are the results exactly the same, taking into account instrument tolerances?
Do we have frequency roll-off issues?
Do we have poorer SINAD?
Do we have channel matching problems?
And so on.

 

[NTomokawa]

A much more fun game would be to see how many line attenuators one can hook up in series before the whole system, assuming that output levels can be matched and maintained, becomes measurably - or audibly - non-transparent.

Reminds me of that test somebody did with daisy-chained op-amps.

 

[gvl]

Wouldn't amp input capacitance matter as well when adding a passive attenuator?

 

[NTomokawa]

Wouldn't amp input capacitance matter as well when adding a passive attenuator?

Aha, good point.

I didn't think of that. Inductance, too, while we're at it.

 

[restorer-john]

The Lux can be easily modified to bypass all the front end (buffer and NFB tone stages)(likely where most of the hiss is coming from) and use it as a power amp or alternatively, put a bypass switch to bypass the front end (source direct style).

I think you'll find the sensitivity of the power amp section alone will be much more suitable to a 2.0V source, even if fed through the existing volume pot.

Anything you do can be fully reversible and non-invasive.

 

[NTomokawa]

The Lux can be easily modified to bypass all the front end (buffer and NFB tone stages)(likely where most of the hiss is coming from) and use it as a power amp or alternatively, put a bypass switch to bypass the front end (source direct style).

I think you'll find the sensitivity of the power amp section alone will be much more suitable to a 2.0V source, even if fed through the existing volume pot.

Anything you do can be fully reversible and non-invasive.

I would probably want to bypass the tone controls, but I definitely need the volume control. I don't have a preamplifier.

Maybe I'll have the guy do it when I have him overhaul the amplifier entirely.

 

[levimax]

I have a 4 channel amp using these https://www.neurochrome.com/modulus-86/ and am very happy. One thing about these amps is that they are super quiet which it sounds like is important to you .... they have to be to measure like they do. You can DIY these of buy them assembled units. Tom is helpful if needed and a member here. No affiliation beyond buying from him.

 

[Deleted member 9685]

If you want low power, investigate Allo Volt+ D