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Looking for some kind of external 12v trigger device for miniDSP Flex

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ziggurcat

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In my HT system, I having been using a miniDSP Flex and a Buckeye NCX500 power amp, and I am looking to be able to add some kind of 12v trigger functionality so that I don't have to have the Buckeye on Auto mode (it will often shut off in the middle of watching content later at night when I need to keep the volume down). In searching for a solution, this device seems to come up a lot:


However, as I look more into it, it seems that one needs to have some software/electrical engineering knowledge in order to use it. Is it possible to simply use it by plugging the miniDSP into, say, the "Always On" plug, and the Buckeye into the "Normally Off" plug so that when the miniDSP is turned on/off, it turns the Buckeye on/off without any additional wiring/programming? Is there a different component that will work better for this purpose?

I know it's an option, but I would like to avoid leaving the Buckeye amp always on (not because of power consumption, I am more worried about the heat).
 
I own the device you linked and I don’t think it does what you want it to do. I use it to control an amplifier that doesn’t have a 12v trigger input from a preamp (Wiim ultra) that does have a 12v trigger output. The Wiim 12v output connects to the green connector on the side of the unit and the trigger signal then switches the ac power on (or off) for my 30 year old amplifier.

I don’t believe it has an auto sense capability to switch the ac mains when it senses your minidsp to be drawing current.
 
BillH said:
I own the device you linked and I don’t think it does what you want it to do. I use it to control an amplifier that doesn’t have a 12v trigger input from a preamp (Wiim ultra) that does have a 12v trigger output. The Wiim 12v output connects to the green connector on the side of the unit and the trigger signal then switches the ac power on (or off) for my 30 year old amplifier.

I don’t believe it has an auto sense capability to switch the ac mains when it senses your minidsp to be drawing current.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response, and I guess it's back to the drawing board. Do you think something like this would work?


When I made the decision to switch to my current HT configuration, I didn't choose the Flex HT (which has a trigger out) because it didn't have any RCA inputs, and I wouldn't have been able to connect my turntable. I would like to swap out my Flex for the HTx model, but that ain't happening any time soon (though I am strongly considering).
 
ziggurcat said:
Thanks for the response, and I guess it's back to the drawing board. Do you think something like this would work?


When I made the decision to switch to my current HT configuration, I didn't choose the Flex HT (which has a trigger out) because it didn't have any RCA inputs, and I wouldn't have been able to connect my turntable. I would like to swap out my Flex for the HTx model, but that ain't happening any time soon (though I am strongly considering).
Click to expand...
I have one of those too. It has an auto sense circuit just like your amp. Unfortunately the lowest selectable switching level is 10 Watts and the minidsp flex idle power draw is listed as 9 Watts. You may be in a similar situation where sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. Also note - that is a fairly large power strip.

Good luck
 
ziggurcat said:
In my HT system, I having been using a miniDSP Flex and a Buckeye NCX500 power amp, and I am looking to be able to add some kind of 12v trigger functionality so that I don't have to have the Buckeye on Auto mode (it will often shut off in the middle of watching content later at night when I need to keep the volume down). In searching for a solution, this device seems to come up a lot:


However, as I look more into it, it seems that one needs to have some software/electrical engineering knowledge in order to use it. Is it possible to simply use it by plugging the miniDSP into, say, the "Always On" plug, and the Buckeye into the "Normally Off" plug so that when the miniDSP is turned on/off, it turns the Buckeye on/off without any additional wiring/programming? Is there a different component that will work better for this purpose?

I know it's an option, but I would like to avoid leaving the Buckeye amp always on (not because of power consumption, I am more worried about the heat).
Click to expand...
www.bobwireaudio.com

DAT1 | Bobwire Audio

The Bobwire DAT1 will simplify your AV (audio video) installation by providing a 12-volt trigger to turn on/off amplifiers, cooling fans, AV selectors or other accessories. It works by monitoring a digital audio signal and then activating one of the two different 12V outputs depending on if the...
www.bobwireaudio.com www.bobwireaudio.com

Connected to one of the optical outputs of the mini DSP ought to do the trick.
 
BillH said:
I have one of those too. It has an auto sense circuit just like your amp. Unfortunately the lowest selectable switching level is 10 Watts and the minidsp flex idle power draw is listed as 9 Watts. You may be in a similar situation where sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. Also note - that is a fairly large power strip.

Good luck
Click to expand...

:(

EDIT: I'm wondering if setting the TV as the "control" would get around the potential inconsistencies in the functionality?
 
Last edited:
chelgrian said:
www.bobwireaudio.com

DAT1 | Bobwire Audio

The Bobwire DAT1 will simplify your AV (audio video) installation by providing a 12-volt trigger to turn on/off amplifiers, cooling fans, AV selectors or other accessories. It works by monitoring a digital audio signal and then activating one of the two different 12V outputs depending on if the...
www.bobwireaudio.com www.bobwireaudio.com

Connected to one of the optical outputs of the mini DSP ought to do the trick.
Click to expand...

This could work, but I would have to run optical out from the TV into this, then out of this to the Flex (then run the trigger cable from this device to the Buckeye) as per the "Input Active Trigger" diagram in the manual.

Only snag is it's nearly $200 CAD, and it will chew up another outlet in what is arguably an overloaded surge protection bar. I would also need to know if this introduces any noise/jitter/anything detrimental into the system.

EDIT: Alternatively, I'm wondering if their AAT1 could work, too.
 
Last edited:
ziggurcat said:
This could work, but I would have to run optical out from the TV into this, then out of this to the Flex (then run the trigger cable from this device to the Buckeye) as per the "Input Active Trigger" diagram in the manual.

Only snag is it's nearly $200 CAD, and it will chew up another outlet in what is arguably an overloaded surge protection bar. I would also need to know if this introduces any noise/jitter/anything detrimental into the system.

EDIT: Alternatively, I'm wondering if their AAT1 could work, too.
Click to expand...
It can’t possibly introduce noise as it’s connected via optical and does no processing. I’ve no idea about jitter but to be frank I don’t care as the amount of jitter you have to have for it not to be perfectly corrected by any DAC input stage is utterly massive.

If we want to know someone in the US needs to send one in to be tested or convince the vendor to lend one for testing, he’s on this forum…

I have one as it’s still rather cheaper than replacing my processor with one that has a trigger output.
 
chelgrian said:
It can’t possibly introduce noise as it’s connected via optical and does no processing. I’ve no idea about jitter but to be frank I don’t care as the amount of jitter you have to have for it not to be perfectly corrected by any DAC input stage is utterly massive.

If we want to know someone in the US needs to send one in to be tested or convince the vendor to lend one for testing, he’s on this forum…

I have one as it’s still rather cheaper than replacing my processor with one that has a trigger output.
Click to expand...

So I might try out the AAT1, and hope that it does the trick... though I am not particularly hopeful. Watched a few videos from the manufacturer, and the way it functions just seems like it'd be exactly the same as what the situation is now (in that it triggers the amp to turn on when an audio signal is detected, rather than -- what I believe a normal trigger does? -- powering on/off when a power signal is detected).

I tried to cancel before it shipped, but Amazon denied the request (even though it was still pretty far off from being shipped), so it may end up not being opened, and sent back right away (which is a waste of time for everyone). I have a feeling I will either end up just leaving the amp always on (despite my reservations about that), choke on the purchase of a Flex HTx sooner that I'd like or get the DAT1 like I probably should have done instead :oops: .

EDIT:

After some thought, I figured I'd give it a fair shake. I think as long as it resolves the problem of the amp turning off during lower listening periods, eliminates the fighting with the volume to trigger the amp back on if it goes to sleep, and triggers the amp to turn on sooner when powering things up for the first time, I'd be pleased enough.
 
Last edited:
So, I received the AAT1 yesterday afternoon, and I will have some time tomorrow to set it all up.

*crosses fingers*
 
Aaaaaand, it's a bust. It is a quality, well-built box, but it didn't do the one thing I was hoping it would do: keep the amp on at lower listening levels. Even on the most sensitive setting, it failed to stay on when sitting idle on my PS5.

I'm afraid I will have to send this back, and try the DAT1 since it does appear to have a trigger that involves powering on/off rather than limiting it to audio detection.

EDIT:

Scratch that. Amazon is falsely advertising the price, so I will not be getting the DAT1. On the item's page, it cites/includes the import fees, but at checkout, the import fee changes from $8.50 to $53, bringing it well over what I am willing to spend on this.

It's back to the drawing board, which probably means putting money away to get the Flex HTx...
 
Last edited:
ziggurcat said:
There's no way for me to connect this device as the miniDSP Flex does not have that kind of power cable connector.
Click to expand...
That would be just two sockets and 20cm of mains cord to be added. Like 10 USD /€ for such an adaptor.
 
Or this?

1748196664020.png
IMG_2022.jpeg
 
I use this power strip to do I think what you want.

https://a.co/d/gdlWoHD

My Flex is plugged into the “Control” outlet. When I power plot on, all the other devices in my system, which are left in the on state receive power and turn on. Works quite well.
 
mglobe said:
I use this power strip to do I think what you want.

https://a.co/d/gdlWoHD

My Flex is plugged into the “Control” outlet. When I power plot on, all the other devices in my system, which are left in the on state receive power and turn on. Works quite well.
Click to expand...

I did consider the smaller version of that earlier in this thread, but was tabled when it was mentioned that even on the lowest switching threshold setting, there might be some inconsistencies in the performance (posts #3 and #4, for reference).

If you are able to confirm that you've not encountered any issues, then I would put it back on the table for consideration. I think a potential workaround would be to use the TV as the control device (setting the threshold to high for TVs, as per the manual), and I can program the on/off sequence timing in my Sofabaton to have the Flex turn on first before the TV, and power off after the TV (which should eliminate the more audible pop that happens when the Flex is shut off before the amp).
 
MiniDsp Flex(x) devices power consumption specs are not currently reflecting real ones. See this discussion.

I was in the same situation ( but with a Flex HT). Master / slave power strips with wattage consumption detection is not reliable in this case with Flex HT devices.

I ended up with a box with a 12v relay (30A) made by a local french small company (but can be built for only few bucks manually) and on which a regular power strip is plugged.
 
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