HighFutility
Active Member
- Joined
- May 8, 2022
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Hey, I was looking for insight into a new subwoofer build for myself. I have built five subwoofers. The earlier projects were not the greatest. Lack of tools, knowledge, and skill. I have come a long way and would like to tackle a bigger project for several reasons. All my subs have been 10-inch builds, some painted, some veneered.
I recently picked up a GRSSSW-4HE 15-inch subwoofer.
Link: https://www.parts-express.com/GRS-1...2NpS7UkJEJD5EoWESEw5jYIgXFIcAqbjflUEI7cEEe--q
I purchased this for several reasons, in no particular order: it was cheap and an introduction to 15-inch drivers. It was cheap enough that once my wife finds out about it, I wouldn't feel so bad when it came time to get rid of it. It's going to obviously be in the way and an eyesore. I just want to build it and see how it sounds and feels in my setup. The other part is im just itching to build something with my hands. I LOVE the process and learning new things along the way. This will also be my first build using a plate amplifier. All my other builds have been passive and powered by my crown xls 1502. Given the driver is listed with 300W RMS, I got a plate amp from Dayton that could drive it to its full extent.
Link to plate amp: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...-Subwoofer-Plate-Amplifier-300-806?quantity=1
I have questions regarding the 6db BOOST. More on that later.
I hope to use the forum members' expertise to make the best design possible.
For a sealed enclosure, Parts Express lists a 3 ft3 enclosure for a sealed F3 OF 36Hz. Booting up WinIsd I can see powering the full 300W it hits 12.5mm excursion Xmax is listed 12.3mm. If I build the box to 2.9 ft3 powering it full 300W I can stay below X max. Both 2.9 and 3 ft3 boxes listed below.
This is my current Dyaton 10-inch Ultimax 2 subwoofer build with 336W* (see next sentence) vs my upcoming GRS project build with 300W. @ 20hz it's 92 vs 100 spl, @ 30 hz 98 vs 107spl.
The crown xls is advertised as 525 into 4OHM Link: https://www.crownaudio.com/en/products/xls-1502; however, when Amir reviewed it link : https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...-and-measurements-of-crown-xls-1502-amp.6062/ . It showed 336W before clipping with a 4ohm load. When modelling system input power. Should I input 336W, or is the 525W manufacturer still valid? The Ultimax 10-inch driver can handle 600RMS. This is off-topic but valid in the modelling process.
Returning to the GRS BOX DESIGN and the plate amp with 6db boost @ 30hz. The amp is rated for 300W. Where does the power come from for the 6DB boost? Does the amp turn down the system input power by a factor of 4 to 75W in order to apply the 6db boost? If so, with an input power of 75W and a 6db boost @ 30hz (I have no idea of the q factor of the plate amp). We are back at square one. Image 300W vs 75W + 6db boost @ 30hz.
Kinda lame if thats the case.
So, is the best box size 2.9 ft3? I can drive the sub full tilt with the amp without hitting excursion. I can technically build the box smaller, but given the OD of the driver is 15.36 inchs, the smallest H x W I could get is 16.6 inches. I think I would need to leave at least an inch or more around. I plan to double baffle. While on the subject matter. Is there a rule of thumb for how much space to leave around the subwoofer driver? I see SVS subs look like they build the SB series really close leaving minimal space.
Bracing
I plan to use a double baffle. I came across this post link: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/206664-implementing-bracing/ and thought of either using a donut brace or a window brace. Any recommendations for best practices would be welcome.
Here are few pics of my last build:
I recently picked up a GRSSSW-4HE 15-inch subwoofer.
Link: https://www.parts-express.com/GRS-1...2NpS7UkJEJD5EoWESEw5jYIgXFIcAqbjflUEI7cEEe--q
I purchased this for several reasons, in no particular order: it was cheap and an introduction to 15-inch drivers. It was cheap enough that once my wife finds out about it, I wouldn't feel so bad when it came time to get rid of it. It's going to obviously be in the way and an eyesore. I just want to build it and see how it sounds and feels in my setup. The other part is im just itching to build something with my hands. I LOVE the process and learning new things along the way. This will also be my first build using a plate amplifier. All my other builds have been passive and powered by my crown xls 1502. Given the driver is listed with 300W RMS, I got a plate amp from Dayton that could drive it to its full extent.
Link to plate amp: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...-Subwoofer-Plate-Amplifier-300-806?quantity=1
I have questions regarding the 6db BOOST. More on that later.
I hope to use the forum members' expertise to make the best design possible.
For a sealed enclosure, Parts Express lists a 3 ft3 enclosure for a sealed F3 OF 36Hz. Booting up WinIsd I can see powering the full 300W it hits 12.5mm excursion Xmax is listed 12.3mm. If I build the box to 2.9 ft3 powering it full 300W I can stay below X max. Both 2.9 and 3 ft3 boxes listed below.
This is my current Dyaton 10-inch Ultimax 2 subwoofer build with 336W* (see next sentence) vs my upcoming GRS project build with 300W. @ 20hz it's 92 vs 100 spl, @ 30 hz 98 vs 107spl.
The crown xls is advertised as 525 into 4OHM Link: https://www.crownaudio.com/en/products/xls-1502; however, when Amir reviewed it link : https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...-and-measurements-of-crown-xls-1502-amp.6062/ . It showed 336W before clipping with a 4ohm load. When modelling system input power. Should I input 336W, or is the 525W manufacturer still valid? The Ultimax 10-inch driver can handle 600RMS. This is off-topic but valid in the modelling process.
Returning to the GRS BOX DESIGN and the plate amp with 6db boost @ 30hz. The amp is rated for 300W. Where does the power come from for the 6DB boost? Does the amp turn down the system input power by a factor of 4 to 75W in order to apply the 6db boost? If so, with an input power of 75W and a 6db boost @ 30hz (I have no idea of the q factor of the plate amp). We are back at square one. Image 300W vs 75W + 6db boost @ 30hz.
Kinda lame if thats the case.
So, is the best box size 2.9 ft3? I can drive the sub full tilt with the amp without hitting excursion. I can technically build the box smaller, but given the OD of the driver is 15.36 inchs, the smallest H x W I could get is 16.6 inches. I think I would need to leave at least an inch or more around. I plan to double baffle. While on the subject matter. Is there a rule of thumb for how much space to leave around the subwoofer driver? I see SVS subs look like they build the SB series really close leaving minimal space.
Bracing
I plan to use a double baffle. I came across this post link: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/206664-implementing-bracing/ and thought of either using a donut brace or a window brace. Any recommendations for best practices would be welcome.
Here are few pics of my last build: