Hi all,
I'm sort of new here though I know many of you from the requisite 20 years on audio forums ;o)
I've had bit of a search here but I haven't spotted a thread on listening room dimensions. Googling this readily shows many opinions and approaches. The general recommendation seems to be to keep the room cuboid so that at least the standing waves are predictable, and then adjust dimensions to avoid reinforcement in the three dimensions (keep the dimensions away from integer multiples of each other). Audio professionals have simple ratios that have proven good over time. The golden ratio is often used and seems to give a good spread of frequencies. The more I looked the more it seems, so long as bad dimensions are not chosen, there are many possible room sizes that work pretty much as well as each other. But bigger is better.... On the other hand it is just me listening and I don't really want to disappear into a giant cave, so there's a driver not to be too big too.
I'm building a new house and have reasonable freedom to choose the listening room size. I'm expecting something around 2.7m high with the golden ratio, 4.4 wide and 7.1 long (about 9' x 14.4' x 23.3'). If worthwhile it could be 3.0m (10') or even higher with the relative increased width and lengths.
It will have concrete floor (probably wooden surface), and concrete ceiling (again of course some finish). The walls can be concrete, concrete block or timber and drywall.
If it was a virtue I could slope the ceilings and walls...... The speaker end is likely to be a glass wall (again to avoid the man cave effect) and I plan to mount it with a slope to reflect sound to the ceiling probably.
My speakers tend to be largish (currently Tad R1s, but have used B&W801ds, JBL Everest, and Sony SS-AR1 too. I'm more of a near field listener than far field. Subs can be applied as required more or less.
I have dabbled in room correction (Tact, Lygndorf, Room Perfect, etc, etc), though I generally prefer not to use it currently.
So, any ideas, recommendations? I guess the obvious one is go find a good acoustic company and work with them....
Btw - disclosure - I'm an electronics engineer......sad but true....which is why I'm here I guess ;o)
Thanks
Murray
I'm sort of new here though I know many of you from the requisite 20 years on audio forums ;o)
I've had bit of a search here but I haven't spotted a thread on listening room dimensions. Googling this readily shows many opinions and approaches. The general recommendation seems to be to keep the room cuboid so that at least the standing waves are predictable, and then adjust dimensions to avoid reinforcement in the three dimensions (keep the dimensions away from integer multiples of each other). Audio professionals have simple ratios that have proven good over time. The golden ratio is often used and seems to give a good spread of frequencies. The more I looked the more it seems, so long as bad dimensions are not chosen, there are many possible room sizes that work pretty much as well as each other. But bigger is better.... On the other hand it is just me listening and I don't really want to disappear into a giant cave, so there's a driver not to be too big too.
I'm building a new house and have reasonable freedom to choose the listening room size. I'm expecting something around 2.7m high with the golden ratio, 4.4 wide and 7.1 long (about 9' x 14.4' x 23.3'). If worthwhile it could be 3.0m (10') or even higher with the relative increased width and lengths.
It will have concrete floor (probably wooden surface), and concrete ceiling (again of course some finish). The walls can be concrete, concrete block or timber and drywall.
If it was a virtue I could slope the ceilings and walls...... The speaker end is likely to be a glass wall (again to avoid the man cave effect) and I plan to mount it with a slope to reflect sound to the ceiling probably.
My speakers tend to be largish (currently Tad R1s, but have used B&W801ds, JBL Everest, and Sony SS-AR1 too. I'm more of a near field listener than far field. Subs can be applied as required more or less.
I have dabbled in room correction (Tact, Lygndorf, Room Perfect, etc, etc), though I generally prefer not to use it currently.
So, any ideas, recommendations? I guess the obvious one is go find a good acoustic company and work with them....
Btw - disclosure - I'm an electronics engineer......sad but true....which is why I'm here I guess ;o)
Thanks
Murray