Leveling up from my Wiim Ultra Amp

[StephenMarkLay]

First let me say I have nothing but praise for my Wiim Ultra Amp. However, I have two systems on my living room. One is a desktop setup with Kef LS/50 and Wiim Sub Pro currently run via my MacBook and an NAD D3020 (Hypex class d) amp. It is great but I want the ability to run the Kefs with room correction and eq that the wiim offers. The Wiim is currently paired with my Linton 85's. The Lintons sound great with the Wiim amp but there are times I am really pushing that little amp (max volume) and I know that there is a greater chance of blowing a tweeter if it goes into clipping etc. So I am thinking more power/current. I do think there is probably a bit more bottom end control available as well.

So... I could get an Ultra streamer and be done or I could get a mini wiim and then a minidsp unit. There are a lot of options like separate dacs, reclocking (useless?) etc and I am wondering what your folks take on what might be a next logical step for me without going broke in the process!

Thanks so much!

 

[DVDdoug]

and I know that there is a greater chance of blowing a tweeter if it goes into clipping etc.

That's a popular MYTH. While IT'S TRUE that you can burn-out a speaker by pushing the amp into clipping, higher power is even MORE DANGEROUS.
Why Do Tweeters Blow When Amplifiers Distort?

So I am thinking more power/current.

Voltage, current, impedance and power are all mathematically related. (You can look-up the formulas if you're interested.) If your amplifier is putting-out 100W the only way to get more current is to increase the voltage which also increases current and power.

Or, lower impedance speakers will "pull" more current and power. Or if you put two 8-Ohm speakers in parallel you've got a 4-Ohm load. Assuming the amplifier can handle the 4-Ohm load, they'll both get the same voltage, current, and power so the total current and power are doubled.

Or with no speaker connected (infinite impedance or resistance) the voltage is still present but no current flows and no power is coming out.

I do think there is probably a bit more bottom end control available as well.

You might need bigger woofers or a subwoofer. Size isn't everything but you aren't going to get "realistic bass" that you can feel in your body from a tiny woofer.

 

[StephenMarkLay]

That's a popular MYTH. While IT'S TRUE that you can burn-out a speaker by pushing the amp into clipping, higher power is even MORE DANGEROUS.
Why Do Tweeters Blow When Amplifiers Distort?


Voltage, current, impedance and power are all mathematically related. (You can look-up the formulas if you're interested.) If your amplifier is putting-out 100W the only way to get more current is to increase the voltage which also increases current and power.

Or, lower impedance speakers will "pull" more current and power. Or if you put two 8-Ohm speakers in parallel you've got a 4-Ohm load. Assuming the amplifier can handle the 4-Ohm load, they'll both get the same voltage, current, and power so the total current and power are doubled.

Or with no speaker connected (infinite impedance or resistance) the voltage is still present but no current flows and no power is coming out.


You might need bigger woofers or a subwoofer. Size isn't everything but you aren't going to get "realistic bass" that you can feel in your body from a tiny woofer.

Thank you! I didn't know that about clipping. I will read that much appreciated! It does make me feel better for sure since I was concerned about driving the amp. Even though It never sounds strained even at max volume. Yep I could use MO POWER!

 

[JeremyFife]

ASR plays havoc with 'conventional' upgrade logic and plans, it can be quite irritating to realise that there's no real benefit to upgrading (apart from speakers, or room perhaps)

You can EQ your desktop from the MacBook - for simplicity, swap out your NAD for the WiiM Ultra Amp just long enough to make some RoomFit measurements. Take a note of them (if you like the change) and apply those settings in your preferred software. Others can help with the detail, I'm no Mac expert.
Then swap the amps back to their original homes.

Agree with @DVDdoug : if you want better bass, you may want to look at subs. If you do that you can high-pass the Lintons, which will reduce the load on your WiiM and give you a touch more power too.

 

[jcarys]

I would personally keep it simple. You've had a good experience with the Wiim amp, so adding an Ultra to your other system seems like an obvious choice.

You could also always flip your amps between the two systems and see if the NAD + Linton combo makes you happier. If not, then just add in your choice of amp to take it up to Linton's top spec of 200 watts.

 

[StephenMarkLay]

ASR plays havoc with 'conventional' upgrade logic and plans, it can be quite irritating to realise that there's no real benefit to upgrading (apart from speakers, or room perhaps)

You can EQ your desktop from the MacBook - for simplicity, swap out your NAD for the WiiM Ultra Amp just long enough to make some RoomFit measurements. Take a note of them (if you like the change) and apply those settings in your preferred software. Others can help with the detail, I'm no Mac expert.
Then swap the amps back to their original homes.

Agree with @DVDdoug : if you want better bass, you may want to look at subs. If you do that you can high-pass the Lintons, which will reduce the load on your WiiM and give you a touch more power too.

Thanks you! I have never really played the upgrade game per se and have always been happy. But I would disagree only in the WIIM with room correction / eq is a big upgrade from not having it. But that adds functionality rather than just a subjective impression of sound.

Thanks again...

 

[Puddingbuks]

Buy a subwoofer. High pass the main speakers. This will make life easier for the wiim amp, as it doesn’t have to power the subbass. Your speakers will also benefit, as those tiny midwoofers will be relieved from heavy bass excursions and can focus now on what they are good at.

 

[StephenMarkLay]

Buy a subwoofer. High pass the main speakers. This will make life easier for the wiim amp, as it doesn’t have to power the subbass. Your speakers will also benefit, as those tiny midwoofers will be relieved from heavy bass excursions and can focus now on what they are good at.

I like where this thread is going! See you in the subwoofer forum

 

[Jiraya369]

First let me say I have nothing but praise for my Wiim Ultra Amp. However, I have two systems on my living room. One is a desktop setup with Kef LS/50 and Wiim Sub Pro currently run via my MacBook and an NAD D3020 (Hypex class d) amp. It is great but I want the ability to run the Kefs with room correction and eq that the wiim offers. The Wiim is currently paired with my Linton 85's. The Lintons sound great with the Wiim amp but there are times I am really pushing that little amp (max volume) and I know that there is a greater chance of blowing a tweeter if it goes into clipping etc. So I am thinking more power/current. I do think there is probably a bit more bottom end control available as well.

So... I could get an Ultra streamer and be done or I could get a mini wiim and then a minidsp unit. There are a lot of options like separate dacs, reclocking (useless?) etc and I am wondering what your folks take on what might be a next logical step for me without going broke in the process!

Thanks so much!

if you intend to play that loud, floorstanders are the way to go, the KEF Q11 Meta is a relatively inexpensive one with excellent loudness capabilities, the Emotiva XT2 is not linear but can get loud.

Speakers are a game of compromise, if you want good design, loudness AND linearity/neutrality, you have to pay up. If you can find a Revel F228Be used for cheap then that'd be my pick, can't get better than those in terms of loudness capabilities.

Also, I think some big subs like the RSL 12S would do you good. Q11 Meta + an RSL 12S should keep you happy in terms of SPL capabilities.

 

[gasolin75]

I was at the biggstest hifi show in Denmark yesterday

You have to listen to the biggest series of svs towers (those that are angled) 4x6.5" woofer pr speaker or if you have the money, the top of the line has 4x8" woofers pr speaker,channel, that is 8 woofers, they used the new onkyo preamp and power amp they used wass lower by 12db in the app and it was super loud,punchy, the 6.5" tower is rated at 27hz