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Let's talk CD Players!

LTig

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Is this a used player? Maybe the mechanics needs to be cleaned from old lubricants and new lubricants added. I'm sure @restorer-john can give some advice.
 

TheBatsEar

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Relubing is always a good idea.
I also would double check the sensors that detect if the drawer is open or closed, maybe one of those sends spurious signals.

It's a nice one, would be a shame if it ended at the recycling:
Toshiba_XR-Z_70-1983.jpg
 

kevin80

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The CD player has no signs of wear. I lubricated it with mineral oil without cleaning the old lubricant. I checked the relays and they are all good. What oil should I lubricate with? Thank you very much.
 

TheBatsEar

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Lithium grease is what i use mostly, but as long as it is long term stable you could use anything.
It's not rocket surgery and probably not the cause of your problem.

I probably would whip out the old scope and see if the start/end switch signals make sense. Also it's worthwhile to get schematics and check all the voltages.
 

Herbert

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The XR-Z70 is a beauty! I have a working one.
Here is the Service Manual of the Toshiba XR-Z70.
I scanned it 10 years ago when I found out that SMs were not available any more.

As I wrote on the cover it also is suited for the
Kenwood DP-1100B, Uher X-2, Luxman DX-103, Alpine AD-7200
(the Luxman and Alpine also have very nice designs)
and NAD-5200.

The XR-Z70 was built from 1983 to 1985 as far as I remember.
Strange that a corporate group like Toshiba who supplied this player
to other companies did completely withdraw from the consumer
audio market already in the late eighties. I think later it was "only" CD-Rom drives.

Toshiba XR-Z70 Service Manual

Elektrotanya is a great site, download is free of charge, without signing up.
5 downloads a day are allowed.
Also very useful Information can be found on the French site Vintage Audio Laser

XR-Z70 Repair

XR-Z70 Information

The Olympus TAOHS-L / OPH Laser unit used in this player was also wide spread.
Besides the the companies mentioned above in Yamaha , Nakamichi and Denon.

General Information about Olympus TAOHS and OPH Lasers

www.deepl.com is a great tool for translating.
 
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kevin80

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Hello. I solved the reading problem. The diode reading still needs to be adjusted a little. The problem was a 12 k resistor on the plate that feeds the diode, it was simply missing. I don't know how it happened. I still have to solve the problem of the drawer that opens when I open the CD player from the power button. I still have a plug on the power supply board that gives double the voltages it should be. Thank you all for the advice. A good day.
 

TheBatsEar

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The problem was a 12 k resistor on the plate that feeds the diode, it was simply missing.
Lucky you, you found it :cool:

Sometimes they just burn away, check out this 3D printer boards SMD fuse F2, it just evaporated:
PXL_20221222_232605145(1).jpg
PXL_20221222_235012330.jpg
It was a self healing polyprop SMD1206, 5V, 2A, cause was a short. The user said there was a bang and some magic smoke.
However, it did what it was supposed to do, protected the 5V µcontroller area. Easy to fix too.


Also i remember a Grundig Fine Arts amp: their power supply provided 24V behind a rectifier, and they had to break it down to 5V. They used a diode to reduce to 16V, then a 0.25W resistor to burn some more energy and as a fuse. You could tell that it was indeed supposed to be a fuse because it stood alone and far from the board and was one of those that don't actually burn, but just smoke harmlessly away. After that some voltage regulator burned away the rest and provided 5V.

The resistor was gone, just the legs left, flapping in the breeze. The user reported a pop, some magic smoke and then the amp stopped working.

The resistor was supposed to protect the 5V section, but over 30 years or so it burned away it's 0.25W and aged, and eventually failed during normal operation. Easy fix too, albeit with a regular resistor, because those special non-burning ones are hard to find these days.

Anyway, glad you fixed your CD player, would have been a shame really.

I'm looking for a CDX 810, 910 or 1010 in silver for my own collection, around the same time:
_dsc6271rblqy.gif


I hope for one as good as this one:
 
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