Thank you. I built one of these for myself decades ago without the power meter and it was so handy to have sitting there just needing to be plugged into and it's always ready to go.That'll do it.
Thank you. I built one of these for myself decades ago without the power meter and it was so handy to have sitting there just needing to be plugged into and it's always ready to go.That'll do it.

I simply had no idea that a KIll-a-Watt meters for voltage and current as well as Watts. My bad...LoL... We have it sorted out that a Kill-a-Watt is the best, simplest, most cost effective readily available solution that's ready out of the box.Do youse guyses have something against the lowly Kill-a-Watt?
I am not saying that their calibration is NIST-traceable, but they're certainly easy to use.
ahem -- I've got one.![]()
View attachment 380617
I don't like to lose.I simply had no idea that a KIll-a-Watt meters for voltage and current as well as Watts. My bad...LoL... We have it sorted out that a Kill-a-Watt is the best, simplest, most cost effective readily available solution that's ready out of the box.
Excellent review literature material @DonH56.I think the debate is whether the measurement accurately reports watts vs. VA or something else. That is what ticked off @wwenze about my initial try; without knowing the phase angles of voltage and current, or the power factor (PF), you cannot know the true average watts.
W = VA * PF where W = watts, VA = volts time amperes (rms), and PF = power factor (usually less than 1; 1 for DC or purely resistive circuits, 0 for purely reactive circuits).
This found after a quick search; there are many others: https://www.electronicdesign.com/ma...the-difference-between-watts-and-volt-amperes
That is what this thread is about. Metering for power, efficiency calcs, voltage and current.>Would like to see @amirm test the efficiency of amplifiers at different wattage when reviewing them. Maybe not as a standard thing, but at least for a while to get some idea how they generally behave. I mean for example if it's less efficient to run a say 500w amp instead of a 50w if you only listen at low volumes.
www.audiosciencereview.com
I suspect user idiocy to be a major contributory factor...There's a lot of reasons that smart plugs can sometimes melt or explode when they are used with high amperage or high wattage devices in your home.
I drOOL for a Amps, Watts and Volts metering at clipping but that is a destructive test sometimes and we don't want that. A real life useful measure is what we need. Just like you stated.Actually, no.
If the review included:
1. Watts used while idle (awake waiting for audio).
2. Watts used producing 70dB music.
3. Watts used after idle 10 minutes and energy savings are active (if any).
That would be fantastic.
What I find is amps offer a WIDE variety of energy efficiency while idle even among Class D. In fact, some multi-channel A/B amps offer superior energy characteristics to some multi-channel Class D builds.
The best practice is to turn the amp off when not in use. But even then some designs will use 2x - 8x as much power as others while playing music at the same SPL.
No 2 doesn't work because that will be speaker dependent.Actually, no.
If the review included:
1. Watts used while idle (awake waiting for audio).
2. Watts used producing 70dB music.
3. Watts used after idle 10 minutes and energy savings are active (if any).
That would be fantastic.
What I find is amps offer a WIDE variety of energy efficiency while idle even among Class D. In fact, some multi-channel A/B amps offer superior energy characteristics to some multi-channel Class D builds.
The best practice is to turn the amp off when not in use. But even then some designs will use 2x - 8x as much power as others while playing music at the same SPL.
All tests will require sine wave sources to ensure a steady state for the the devices digital power, volts and current metering to get solid measures that do not have a delta change like music will.No 2 doesn't work because that will be speaker dependent.
The best route is to use a load resister(s) and sine waves. Do it the same way each time.Actually, it does work.
The test would simply use the same speaker each time for the test.
It gives a baseline of what to expect. With a speaker efficiency of 88dB and higher it's very likely Watts used while idle and at 70dB will be exactly the same or within 1W difference.
Rewrite 2. as Watts used producing 5W then. Or actually at 70dB it would be more like 0.2WActually, no.
If the review included:
1. Watts used while idle (awake waiting for audio).
2. Watts used producing 70dB music.
3. Watts used after idle 10 minutes and energy savings are active (if any).
That would be fantastic.
What I find is amps offer a WIDE variety of energy efficiency while idle even among Class D. In fact, some multi-channel A/B amps offer superior energy characteristics to some multi-channel Class D builds.
The best practice is to turn the amp off when not in use. But even then some designs will use 2x - 8x as much power as others while playing music at the same SPL.
The benchmark speaker load for a long time has been the PowerCube, around $30k last I checked (few years ago). https://www.audiograph.se/stand-alone/ You can (could, I have not looked recently) buy it stand-alone or as part of an AP test system.Actually why doesn't Audio Precision put a simulated speaker load inside the box, or is that a paid upgrade
Or even a input power / I / V sensor upgrade but I predict it would cost $30,000

I think it's prime time for 1 or all of these measures like efficiency, Watts, power factor and maybe mains volts metering of all tested gear. People are energy efficiency conscious these days.
Hmmm... maybe "we" need a "Green Audio" website.
Maybe but ASR can add the power, power factor and efficiency figures to it's measurement repertoire. I suspect that will draw in a lot of interested people that otherwise might not come here to ASR.SilentPCReview died, so we couldn't even sustain a Green Computer website