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Let's stop calling Class D amplifiers "efficient" when they are not.

Have we considered that all that switching wears out the electrons?
I don't think the electrons are a problem they are quite mercurial. But the lattice atoms become quite jittery as a result of all these dancing electrons. They probably need a cryogenic treatment now and then.
 
Copied and pasted from the Buckeye Amp Thread:

Got all the power monitoring switches installed two on the Buckeye amps and one on my Denon 8500h amp. It seems that the Buckeye amps pull about 74-76 watts (each) and the Denon pulls about 117 to 121 watts no matter how loud I go on volume. This is at main volume set to -20db which is pretty high. Rarely go over that. Interesting.

The Buckeyes are actively driving 5-channels on one and 6 on the other. The Denon is driving 2 channels only.

Depending on what codec I’m using Atmos I only use 2 channels and DTS-X I use 4 channels from the Denon.

I have 15 total channels but only 13 are active at any time.

I repeated this testing with Music using all ch stereo. Same exact results.

These Buckeye amps are super efficient and barely draw more than 75 watts. Amazing actually because my Biggest low ohm speakers are all on the Buckeye amps.

I’m actually surprised at how little power they take.

In standby the Buckeyes pull zero watts and the Denon pulls 5.4 watts.”
 
Tell me, how much power do your class D amplifiers consume, just idling along, doing nothing, or even playing slightly loudly? Measure it and be shocked. Report back here with your results.

Class D "efficiency" is utter and complete bullsh#t.

Something in this thread is utter and complete bull**it, that's for sure.
 
Something in this thread is utter and complete bull**it, that's for sure.
It’s a Trap!

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A few that I have here:

Class AB/G Outlaw 2200: 11W X2 idle, 5W X2 standby (spec is 3W standby so I don't know what's up with that)
Class D Sonos Amp: 15W idle, 7W standby (wifi penalty I guess)
Class D SMSL A300: 5W idle

So none are running up my electric bill and I turn them off anyway when I am not using them.

Sure some Class AB draw much more, not to mention Class A. But if you want Class AB you don't have to pay much power consumption penalty if you don't want to. Benchmark AHB2 idle spec is 10W 20W on spec sheet, elsewhere they say 12W.
 
They probably need a cryogenic treatment now and then.
Pretty much everything in audio benefits from cryogenic treatment.
 
What the heck I went ahead measured my amp. 1.0W in standby and 41W idle. That is with 2 x power supplies, 2 x SS2490 discrete opamps, and 2 x NCx500 modules. This amp puts up to 700W per channel into 4/2 ohms. Never runs hot, barely warm.

Now find me a class AB power amp of similar power that draws less power when idling. I will wait.
Yamaha P7000S - 38 W idle
2x700 W 8 ohm 20-20.000 Hz
2x950 W 4 ohm 20-20.000 Hz
3200 W 4 ohm bridged 1 kHz

Yamaha P3200 - 35 W idle
2x340 W 8 ohm 20-20.000 Hz
2x440 W 4 ohm 20-20.000 Hz
2x950 W 2 ohm 1 kHz
 
The one in my system at the moment (100wpc/8 ohms) consumes about 3W at idle. For that, I have to turn off the LED indicators.
 
One should define what he means saying “idle”.
 
One should define what he means saying “idle”.
Assuming in standby mode ready to play with no music or signal applied. Amp is On with no content. I measured mine on with zero volume and on with Mute engaged. The numbers were the same.
 
I'm shattered by the anecdotal claim that Class D efficiency is bullsh#t. Even if it is 100% unsupported by data, this decree has gutted my world-view, and cast doubt on my personal attempt to save the planet with energy efficient Class D amplification, which is the only reason I bought them in the first place.

I will immediately send my Class D amps to the landfill, and re-purchase my old Class A/B equipment that had previously been thrown away due to my perception (and measurements) of inefficiency. It's the only efficient thing to do...
 
Correction pretty much everything in audio benefits from cryogenic treatment. I would add supposedly.
I can personally attest that my “performance” wanes in the presence of cold water. :oops:
 
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The one in my system at the moment (100wpc/8 ohms) consumes about 3W at idle. For that, I have to turn off the LED indicators.
LEDs ruin the sound, anyways.
 
Yamaha P7000S - 38 W idle
2x700 W 8 ohm 20-20.000 Hz
2x950 W 4 ohm 20-20.000 Hz
3200 W 4 ohm bridged
Interesting, this EEEngine uses a class D to provide power to a class AB power stage.

Fair point. Though that specc is not encouraging ("Less than 0.1% (20Hz-20kHz; Halfpower), RL=4ohms" = SINAD 60 dB at 550W).
 
oof we all love a good shitpost



Saint Stephen of the Guttenburg Audiophiliac Bible compels you to buy all the Class As available.

Rid the world of the woke mind virus with this Class D nonsense and global warming malarkey.

You know the Chinese and the Dutch and Danish put the class d curse on us.

They dont beleive in global warming... especially the Dutch.
 
Interesting, this EEEngine uses a class D to provide power to a class AB power stage.

Fair point. Though that specc is not encouraging ("Less than 0.1% (20Hz-20kHz; Halfpower), RL=4ohms" = SINAD 60 dB at 550W).
Shut it, SINAD snob! ;)

It's actually quite alright. Its little brother tested here:

 
Assuming in standby mode ready to play with no music or signal applied.
Idle is when the device is fully on and ready to play.

Standby is when you turn the device off with the remote or it turns off automatically after a while. Usually, a red LED Turns on to signify this.

Off is when you flip the power switch on the back of the unit, or plug out the mains cable entirely.
 
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