OP
- Thread Starter
- #341
Thank you for the link to your amazing new thread!
I (we) can understand the title of your new thread as having "Purification" with capital "P", or even "Purifi-cation".
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Let's share diagrams (and photos) of our total physical audio system and the whole signal path, with a few words and/or links
- Thread starter dualazmak
- Start date
I (we) can understand the title of your new thread as having "Purification" with capital "P", or even "Purifi-cation".
Dear @dualazmak , thank you for this thought provoking remark. I am contemplating now on whether Purifi-cation is the better choice for capturing my process.
Listening now to the layest album of Keith Jarrettt : New Vienna
It helps in the contemplating process ;-)
Listening now to the layest album of Keith Jarrettt : New Vienna
It helps in the contemplating process ;-)
As of today, I use a 3.1 channels Hi-fi set-up as such:
This set-up is laid out in a 47 m² living-room:
There is 2.78 m from left to right speakers axis and the listening area is at 4.17 m.
The ceiling has been lightly treated with polyester fiber absorptive tiles to cover about 30% of its surface. The tiles cover the entire area of the primary reflections and are randomly placed elsewhere.
Further works will involve increasing the number of available 2.0 sources by hacking the multi-room feature of the Linn preamplifier, expanding the number of available front channels to 5 and completing the acoustic treatment of the ceiling with diffusing clouds with integrated lights instead of the current lighting.
This set-up is laid out in a 47 m² living-room:
There is 2.78 m from left to right speakers axis and the listening area is at 4.17 m.
The ceiling has been lightly treated with polyester fiber absorptive tiles to cover about 30% of its surface. The tiles cover the entire area of the primary reflections and are randomly placed elsewhere.
Further works will involve increasing the number of available 2.0 sources by hacking the multi-room feature of the Linn preamplifier, expanding the number of available front channels to 5 and completing the acoustic treatment of the ceiling with diffusing clouds with integrated lights instead of the current lighting.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #344
Very interesting and impressive setup with center SP and two subwoofers in addition to the main L&R SPs!
I noticed that two Cabasse Etna2 subwoofers (L and R channel if I understand correctly, or L+R mixed mono?) are placed behind the center SP in rather narrow L to R distance, right?
Even though I assume this setting would be your optimal physical subwoofer alignment in your room acoustic, have you ever tested placing the L and R subwoofers rather farther away, say just outside (or just inside) behind the L and R main SPs?
The two subwoofers are in parallel on the same channel and are in use only when an LFE signal is present, ie with 5.1 music discs and, of course, 5.1 movie soundtracks (I occasionally move a widescreen monitor in the living room from time to time to watch movies).
Before I went multichannel, I used to use the two subwoofers separately, one for the left channel, one for the right channel. The Cabasse Polaris AM1000 also includes an active filter stage that is switchable in low-pass or high-pass, specifically designed for bi-amping. At that time, each subwoofer was placed the closest possible behind its associated tower speaker. Even earlier, I had only one sub and the bass from the R/L channel was summed in mono. The configuration with stereo bass proved to be much better.
Before I went multichannel, I used to use the two subwoofers separately, one for the left channel, one for the right channel. The Cabasse Polaris AM1000 also includes an active filter stage that is switchable in low-pass or high-pass, specifically designed for bi-amping. At that time, each subwoofer was placed the closest possible behind its associated tower speaker. Even earlier, I had only one sub and the bass from the R/L channel was summed in mono. The configuration with stereo bass proved to be much better.
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OP
- Thread Starter
- #346
Keith Jarett!
What a miracle coincidence, I too was much enjoying Keith Jarett's wonderful classical music performance today Sunday (here in Japan) afternoon.
Only if you would be somewhat (or a little bit) interested in classical music, I like to suggest you would please listen to Keith Jarrett's wonderful performance of "Händel: Suites for Keyboard" CD ECM 445 2982 recorded September 1993 at State University of New York, Purchse.
Not only the authentic (my best preferred) performance of Keith Jarett but also the recording quality of this CD is amazingly superb, and I included one of the tracks, Track-3 Suite HMV 452 G minor Sarabande in my "Audio Reference/Sampler Music Playlist"; please refer to my hosting independent thread entitled "An Attempt Sharing Reference Quality Music Playlist: at least a portion and/or whole track being analyzed by 3D color spectrum of Adobe Audition" and the specific post here #590 "[Part-02] Solo Piano Music:" which has YouTube link to the whole CD album. His notes/article in the CD booklet is also very much impressive and informative.
If you would be interested in this album, I highly recommend you purchasing the CD for better sound quality and for "sincere respect" to keith, even though you may find other high-quality streaming distribution of this wonderful album.
I actually have five CD albums of "Händel: Suites for Keyboard" performed by five pianists on modern nice pianos, and I like Keith's album/performance best because of his authentic "in-steady-tempo" and "still-with-sublime-lyricism" with little deliberate-out-of-tempo, with little uncomfortable-ornamentation.
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OP
- Thread Starter
- #347
Thank you for your quick response which I understand well and essentially agree with you.
Just for your (and for other people onboard on this thread) possible interest and reference, let me share with you my following posts regarding L&R subwoofers (in stereo) in my multichannel setup;
- Excellent Recording Quality Music Albums/Tracks for Subjective (and Possibly Objective) Test/Check/Tuning of Multichannel Multi-Driver Multi-Way Multi-Amplifier Time-Aligned Active Stereo Audio System and Room Acoustics; at least a Portion and/or One Track being Analyzed by Color Spectrum of Adobe Audition in Common Parameters:
[Part-01] Full Orchestral Music: #588
[Part-03] Typical(?) Smooth Jazz Music with Guitar: #591
[Part-08] (Smooth?) Jazz Trio: #640
[Part-09] Organ Music: #641
[Part-14] Piano Concertos: #650
- A nice smooth-jazz album for bass (low Fq) and higher Fq tonality check and tuning: #63(remote thread)
- Reproduction and listening/hearing/feeling sensations to 16 Hz (organ) sound with my DSP-based multichannel multi-SP-driver multi-amplifier fully active stereo audio system having big-heavy active L&R sub-woofers: #782
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Actually i do listen to Keith's classical work as well like his Handel performance of 1993. My taste for music is mainly classical, jazz , blues and by occasion pop. The key parameter is: can i hear the musician, a peek into his/hers soul so to speak.
jhenderson0107
Active Member
Below is the system diagram for my home theater. I recently added an 8-channel Yamaha ADH8R to digitize the rear surround analog outputs from the Trinnov A16 to simplify cable routing. The Rs, Rrs, Ls, and Lrs channels are now driven via AES/EBU instead of analog via existing in-wall, two-conductor speaker cabling. Although sub-optimal, this is possible due to the use of differential signaling and has proven 100% reliable in this installation. BTW, this does not result in any signal path degradation since the Genelec 8361's surrounds always process incoming signals in the digital domain. Thus, this topology merely shifts the inevitable A/D conversion process from the loudspeaker to the Yamaha.
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Here is my latest after a few changes. Everything is approximated where it sits on the shelves as some indication of how it all fits together.
One device I added is a Sansui AT-F1 timer. I never see this thing come up for sale so I was happy to snag a working device in nice shape. It is connected to a 3-outlet box via umbilical, and I added it to save wear and tear on the system's power switches, using the manual on/off switches on the timer. It's small, looks very cool, and is a nice attention-grabbing piece because it's so unique. The third outlet is fitted with a 12VDC trigger for the Niles SPK-1 speaker switch. This allows for streamlined operation for the family when it comes to routing sound from the TV through the Wiim Amp. As long as the hifi system is off (which is when I'm not using it) then volume goes through the Wiim from the TV.
The QS-1 is purely eye candy for the vu meters and as easily visible indication that the system is on. It is in the pre-out-main-in loop with the MiniDSP Flex running Dirac Live.
Clearly I enjoy vintage gear and am not completely chasing SOTA sound quality with listening being 90% vinyl, but I've invested properly in gear where it counts most. It sounds awesome and operating the vintage gear is an absolute pleasure when compared to modern equipment.
One device I added is a Sansui AT-F1 timer. I never see this thing come up for sale so I was happy to snag a working device in nice shape. It is connected to a 3-outlet box via umbilical, and I added it to save wear and tear on the system's power switches, using the manual on/off switches on the timer. It's small, looks very cool, and is a nice attention-grabbing piece because it's so unique. The third outlet is fitted with a 12VDC trigger for the Niles SPK-1 speaker switch. This allows for streamlined operation for the family when it comes to routing sound from the TV through the Wiim Amp. As long as the hifi system is off (which is when I'm not using it) then volume goes through the Wiim from the TV.
The QS-1 is purely eye candy for the vu meters and as easily visible indication that the system is on. It is in the pre-out-main-in loop with the MiniDSP Flex running Dirac Live.
Clearly I enjoy vintage gear and am not completely chasing SOTA sound quality with listening being 90% vinyl, but I've invested properly in gear where it counts most. It sounds awesome and operating the vintage gear is an absolute pleasure when compared to modern equipment.
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Torin Krell
Active Member
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2025
- Messages
- 123
- Likes
- 162
I used to regularly make very detailed hand drawn diagrams like this to plan and prepare the live music rigs I used to set up and run during college. These drawings were extremely helpful in integrating the differing gear and requirements for each gig and a failsafe reference to assure that all the necessary gear, interconnects and cables will be brought to the gig. If I find any of those drawings from back then in my attic I will post them.
Sjkrabbe
Member
I do this as well when I have an outside broadcast - at exactly the same reason - to have all needed for the "gig" along to the venue. I did it earlier on also in handwriting/drawing, but now I do it by computer - usually in google draw, so it is easier to re-access if paper-print of drawing is forgotten "on the road" OR someone else shall replace me on the broadcast.
Here is an examble
Attachments
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Current desktop setup...
Changes:
Changes:
- Replaced Topping EX5 with Topping DX5 II
- Added custom XLR to TRS Y-Splitter cables replacing (signal routed though Sub8 previously)
- Add SMSL PL100 CD Player
- PEQ moved to DX5 II from eAPO/PEACE
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Been meaning to post here for awhile.
I built a box for the miniDSP and VU meters:
The raspberry pi is for dynamic loudness compensation, which I posted about here:
www.audiosciencereview.com
I built a box for the miniDSP and VU meters:
The raspberry pi is for dynamic loudness compensation, which I posted about here:
Dynamic loudness compensation with miniDSP
A while back, I ditched my AVR for a miniDSP Flex HT. I really liked having more direct control over room correction (I use a combination of MSO and REW), but the one thing I missed was dynamic loudness compensation (or Dynamic EQ in Denon-speak). I've recently completed a DIY project to...
www.audiosciencereview.com
Sjkrabbe
Member
Since posting last I have cleaned the signal path up a little.
I have done this by incorporating a Little Bear MC3 XLR and RCA switcher in the line level area between the preamp and the power/headphoneamp area for better signal distribution with or without roomcorrection. And furthermore put in a Lindy optical switch so that the Argon and WiiM streamer both land at Optical 2 input on the Parasound Pre-amp.
I have done this by incorporating a Little Bear MC3 XLR and RCA switcher in the line level area between the preamp and the power/headphoneamp area for better signal distribution with or without roomcorrection. And furthermore put in a Lindy optical switch so that the Argon and WiiM streamer both land at Optical 2 input on the Parasound Pre-amp.
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Me troubleshooting lounge TV/AVR setup and trying to resist the urge to replace a 7 year old TV which has a dodgy remote (3rd one), sound and connectivity issues, but works perfectly well in other respects...
I am currently testing the 'proposed' setup. I have bought a SofaBaton U2 to control all the components. It's not a patch my old Harmony remotes, but it seems to do the job and has BluetoothLE to control the Amazon Fire TV. I'm using the 'Quick Select' setting on the Denon to switch between components and settings (buttons learned on the U2 and applied the to the numbered buttons).
I am currently testing the 'proposed' setup. I have bought a SofaBaton U2 to control all the components. It's not a patch my old Harmony remotes, but it seems to do the job and has BluetoothLE to control the Amazon Fire TV. I'm using the 'Quick Select' setting on the Denon to switch between components and settings (buttons learned on the U2 and applied the to the numbered buttons).
Also having trouble with Harmony and CEC with Onkyo RZ30, what did you try? CEC off/on which units? My setup is similar to your proposed with different stuff, no hub. Is the U2 the answer? Next for me is factory reset and restart on RZ30 and CEC off on everything with Harmony as remote (says internet). Everything works but is unstable when switching units or turning on.
I actually had very few issue with the 'current' setup when I had an old Onkyo AVR in the stack (I think it was a TX-SR609).
All of the devices support HDMI-CEC, but they seem to fight each other. The Amazon Fire TV Max seems to be the best at controlling all the others, but I don't want to base the setup around it.
The Samsung TV only supports ARC, not eARC, it doesn't like talking to the Denon AVR-X1700H and sometimes loses its connection and reverts to it's own speakers.
I suspect that the Samsung One Connect box may be faulty, but apparently they are paired with the screen in the factory and are not replaceable (at least not economically replaceable on a 7 year old TV).
The Samsung Smart remote worked well enough for me to not miss my Harmony 785 when all the devices were connected to the One Connect box, but we've worn out 3 remotes and I'm reluctant to buy another one given the other issues and age of the TV.
I hope to get at least another year out of the TV (as our main TV), because the TV landscape is changing in the UK (Freely coming in with IPTV services, both Freeview and Freesat will be phased out at some point).
The Sofabaton U2 works well as a straight replacement for the supplied remotes, but it only supports macros, not the activities you might be used to on the Harmony. You have to get the more expensive Sofabaton X1S for that kind of functionality (and apparently its still not quite a match for the Harmony).
Thanks I just switched from my old Onkyo and it and the Harmony worked flawlessly but that remote eats batteries, rechargeable, so what. My main issue is my LG OLED C9 with the RZ30 sometimes switching to game with nothing connected to game on the RZ30 and other inputs. The consensus on the internet is CEC in the TV. Also have ARC vs eARC and a Dish satellite box. My Bluesound node seems to be okay using toslink so I'm pretty sure its an HDMI/CEC battle between the TV and AVR. Thanks again and good luck.