I still find that a stretch.
Someone can get a good idea of the characteristics of a speaker - in their room, a dealer's room, etc. Reviewers tend to try different set ups to explore how the speaker interacts with the room and listening position as well. Not only have I very often found a reviewer's take on a speaker to be accurate when I hear that speaker at a show room or my room or whatever, but tons of audiophiles have had that experience. That's why you often see Steve's (and other subjective reviewers) comment sections often express appreciation for reviews that have led to happy purchases.
(I know my lack of cynicism in this regard doesn't quite fit the tenor of this forum...but...I can live with that
).