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KEF Reference One - alternative replacement driver?

Mr.Tea

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Both my drivers in the KEF Reference One's are dead and I want to try a new different coaxial
Original driver is 6.5"

Any recommendations?


Original specs:
B160 bass unit (SP1312),
B160 midrange unit (SP1345),
NT25 tweeter (SP1353)
 

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Both my drivers in the KEF Reference One's are dead and I want to try a new different coaxial
Original driver is 6.5"

Any recommendations?


Original specs:
B160 bass unit (SP1312),
B160 midrange unit (SP1345),
NT25 tweeter (SP1353)
There was a tremendous amount of skilled engineering that went into your speakers including the driver design and optimising the enclosure and crossovers to match the driver. Any other driver you put in is not going to be optimized and is most likely going to be a big downgrade in performance. The best way to go is to replace with the original driver from KEF.
 
I tend to agree, even if better drivers exist today, the enclosure and crossover are not designed for them. To do this successfully you pretty much need to redesign the speaker from scratch. This basically defeats the purpose of using an existing speaker for an upgrade.
 
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Both my drivers in the KEF Reference One's are dead and I want to try a new different coaxial
Original driver is 6.5"

Any recommendations?


Original specs:
B160 bass unit (SP1312),
B160 midrange unit (SP1345),
NT25 tweeter (SP1353)
At minimum you will also need to change the crossover and set the sensitivity of the new drivers to match the bandpass woofer. My guess (I have owned ref 1 and have ref 3.2 which I have measured) is that the new UniQ (drivers are similarly matched in sensitivity) will be more sensitive so you may have to pad it to match the woofer. If you do this using a passive crossover, then you have a big complicated optimization (unless you get the OEM crossover), but if you use an active DSP crossover then you can make a lot of good improvements, especially since the old drivers suffer from significant breakup and the new UniQ have a broad dispersion pattern and a breakup region outside of the operating band.

You will still be left with the mechanical problem of fitting the new UniQ to the old baffle.

I would go for it myself ….. an interesting project, but start with the mechanical baffle problem first - remember behind the baffle the MF unit sits in its own enclosure - make sure the walls are not too close for the new driver if you have to increase the baffle hole diameter.

Financially the project won’t make any sense, but you will learn a lot and have fun otherwise.
 
Both my drivers in the KEF Reference One's are dead and I want to try a new different coaxial
Original driver is 6.5"

Any recommendations?


Original specs:
B160 bass unit (SP1312),
B160 midrange unit (SP1345),
NT25 tweeter (SP1353)
eBay sells replacement coils/cones for the NT25 for $12.99.

I have these installed on my 105.3s. The resistance matched the originals exactly. I hope that means the impedance matches.

I hesitate to use the word break-in, but these require ferrofluid, and I think the response changed during the first few weeks. I did measurements, but not scientifically. Short version, I’m happy.

If you are interested, I will add some details about the repair.

I also re-foamed the woofers. A fair amount of work, but no real problem. The air gap is really thin compared to other brands I’ve worked with. Kind of scary.
 
Thanks for the detailed responses.

I was initially thinking I could pick up a modern Uni-Q driver and use a Mini DSP or something for the crossover.

I should have added that is the tweeter on both Ref's that have gone and that looks like quite a job to replace.
 
Thanks for the detailed responses.

I was initially thinking I could pick up a modern Uni-Q driver and use a Mini DSP or something for the crossover.

I should have added that is the tweeter on both Ref's that have gone and that looks like quite a job to replace.
There are videos on repairing the tweeter. I think you could find a shop to do it.

 
Isn't there a Kef service center to repair the speakers? The original Reference One's are still great speakers. There is really no reason to change anything relating to the hardware, imho. If you want to do some fine tuning for Fr, then REW and/or Dirac is your friend, but restore the product to its original condition. That speaker is a masterpiece, and you do not want to muck around and "Do a Danny" on it.
 
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I am looking for a driver repair center in SF Bay Area that can do the ferrofluid fix.
 
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