terryforsythe
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The R2 Meta is on sale right now, $1,099, which is $900 less than the R6 Meta.
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KEF R6 meta Measurements and Review
- Thread starter Nuyes
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- kef kef r6 kef r6 meta
My current amplifier is Marantz SR6014, I am worried whether its power is enough for R7+R6 and the rest of the surround sound? If not, is there any good solution to improve it, such as a pure post-stage three-channel amplifier?
I too have the R7 meta paired with the R6 meta, 2 Q150s in the rear, and 14 inch and 10 inch Klipsch subs and I’m happy as can be. I was never much of a movie guy but I’m becoming one.
I’m not him but I’m running the front 3 from an Anthem MCA 325 which is maybe overkill for their rating but it makes me happy.
Thanks for your reply, your setup is great!
I decided to beef up the amp section for just the pair of R7s. Chose Audiophonics MPA-S250NC XLR. Considering there are three powered subwoofers to handle frequencies below 80Hz I thought it could suffice.
I don't listen at too high volume (rarely go over 80db measured with slow response and C weighting).
Vacceo
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If you actually employ the R7´s on the low frequencies, it makes total sense. It´s not so much the SPL but the amount of power bass takes. Push the crossover for the 7´s below 80hz and see how integration works.
soundofsilence
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I have had a single centre R6 for a year or so and I am now adding 2 more for the L and R channel. Will report back my findings soon
I have this center and I'm really struggling with it. I thought it'd be awesome. Even my old Monitor Audio Apex A40 seemed better!
Most dialogue sounds like someone is talking through a cardboard tube.
It's fairly well-positioned. It's on a TV stand. Flush with the edge. Not firing at my knees or anything daft like that. I've got really good dedicated amplification for it as well. ran I've the Audyssey app a few dozen times, disabled MRC and I've even manually set the crossover to 100hz to try and remove the muddy-ness.
The only thing I haven't done yet is bought a DIRAC license for this receiver. I might do this, as that shows the actual measurements for each speaker and will tell me -for example- if there's some massive suck-out at any point in the frequency range. I'm convinced something is not right here.
EDIT: I'm using Kef R3s as my left & right. Interestingly, these were faulty from delivery (massive crackling sound when playing audio). I obviously returned those and the retailer replaced them, but could the R6 also have been faulty?
Most dialogue sounds like someone is talking through a cardboard tube.
It's fairly well-positioned. It's on a TV stand. Flush with the edge. Not firing at my knees or anything daft like that. I've got really good dedicated amplification for it as well. ran I've the Audyssey app a few dozen times, disabled MRC and I've even manually set the crossover to 100hz to try and remove the muddy-ness.
The only thing I haven't done yet is bought a DIRAC license for this receiver. I might do this, as that shows the actual measurements for each speaker and will tell me -for example- if there's some massive suck-out at any point in the frequency range. I'm convinced something is not right here.
EDIT: I'm using Kef R3s as my left & right. Interestingly, these were faulty from delivery (massive crackling sound when playing audio). I obviously returned those and the retailer replaced them, but could the R6 also have been faulty?
Have you confirmed that polarity isn't reversed somehow? Tried factory resetting your receiver? What happens if you swap it in place of one of your R3s? If you have access to a measurement mic take some REW readings from your MLP. You mentioned disabling MRC so I assume you have the Audyssey app, have you also limited correction to ~500Hz and below?
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No_hair_left
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Limit the correction if you can, better if you have a mic to see where but if its xt32 maybe start at 700hz and go down from there, what you are describing if exactly what my r2 meta sounded like with full range correction, was horrible and very odd sounding.
Onetrack97
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I agree, you need to investigate more. I have the same setup, R3 Metas + R6 Meta center.
My center is in a credenza, all the way to the front, with insulation fill in the rest of the cavity.
My R6 did take a couple of weeks to break in. This is the first speaker I’ve had that benefited from break in.
Turn off all room EQ and run a Nearfield sweep with REW. Even better, take it out in the yard and do the same just to confirm that the R6 doesn’t have any issues.
My center is in a credenza, all the way to the front, with insulation fill in the rest of the cavity.
My R6 did take a couple of weeks to break in. This is the first speaker I’ve had that benefited from break in.
Turn off all room EQ and run a Nearfield sweep with REW. Even better, take it out in the yard and do the same just to confirm that the R6 doesn’t have any issues.
The R6C should sound very similar to your R3s. Compare it with one of your R3s. Swap it out with an R3 and see if the R3 sounds the same in its position, and see if it sounds like the R3 when placed where the R3 was.
Will be interesting to know what the issue is here. I've been looking at this speaker as a potential replacement for my SVS Ultra Center based on Erin's review. The only way to find out is to do a complete analysis with measurements, nearfield and MLP. The MLP could potentially be in a null or partial null or it could be SBIR related too.
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Erin shows with his Klippel that the R-series Meta speakers have a relaxation in the higher frequencies. Yet, these measurements by Nuyes show the R6 Meta almost perfectly flat. I don't believe the designer would have various speakers in the same line sounding different?
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Late response but I wanted to add that your observation is the same thing I ran into years ago when first getting good subs to integrate into my system.
Many people that haven't done this exercise or who don't have home theater experience will try to predict crossover points based on speaker capability (measurements). It may look great on paper to have a higher crossover point. But in practice 80 Hz is the highest you'll be able to go before getting into territory where certain voices will start to sound chesty in movies because some of those sounds are being routed to the subs through the AVR's bass management, especially if you have the subs boosted with a house curve or loudness type feature. You'll find you get the best clarity by lowering your XO to the 60-80 Hz area. In addition, you'll get a better sounding blend between the speakers and subs to the point where it is seamless. You start to lose that above 80 Hz in my experience because the rolloff of the subs is not fast enough. Many people don't realize that if you're only rolling off the subs at 12 dB / octave, there can be a significant drone which you don't want.
So while 100 Hz crossovers are possible, it's pushing the limits, and I wouldn't go there without the ability to steepen the filters.
This is based on my experience over the last 10 years with powerful, quality subs (Rythmik).
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By the way, the 4 ohm setting is hidden for a reason: it is there for compliance and not really for the end user to use. It cuts power by 50% and is equal to Eco Mode, verified by my Kill-a-watt meter. Better is to avoid the setting and just set Eco Mode to Auto where it only comes on when the Master Volume is raised above -30.
I have the option to purchase a used KEF Reference 2 Meta for less than half of MSRP, just not sure if its worth replacing the R6 Meta for Home Theater. Room is 13.5 x 20 x 8.5ft
MLP is about 10ft away
Selling the R6C would be tough, and Id probably get 40% of what id pay for the Ref 2M
Left and Right are Reference One Metas - what would you guys do?
Looking at the white papers, spinorama and FR look very very close
MLP is about 10ft away
Selling the R6C would be tough, and Id probably get 40% of what id pay for the Ref 2M
Left and Right are Reference One Metas - what would you guys do?
Looking at the white papers, spinorama and FR look very very close
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The audible benefit has to be very small. If I had the R6M, I would keep it unless you have an issue with the aesthetic not matching.
The center would be behind an AT screen heh
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