I would second that option. That's what I did with a damaged woofer and have been happy with that solution.Just replace the woofer.
I would second that option. That's what I did with a damaged woofer and have been happy with that solution.Just replace the woofer.
When I disassembled my LS50 the cables were plugged and could be removed with pliers.Oh, interesting - didn’t realize it was that economical / accessible. I found this post and it seems fairly easy to access the woofer - but couldn’t find whether I need to solder the cables back on or whether they’re easy to detach / reattach. Any insight? (Or detailed instructions? Couldn’t find those.)
Thanks again.
You don't have anything to solder. The cables are attached to the woofer with spade connectors, just as shown in the previous post.Oh, interesting - didn’t realize it was that economical / accessible. I found this post and it seems fairly easy to access the woofer - but couldn’t find whether I need to solder the cables back on or whether they’re easy to detach / reattach. Any insight? (Or detailed instructions? Couldn’t find those.)
Thanks again.
Actually, it is a good question. For some reason (likely to do with cabinet size and shape), the R5 is the only model in that series with 5.25 inch woofers. The R3, R7 and R11 all use 6.5 inch woofers, and tend to sound more like each other. If you search this site for the KEF R5, you should find some more discussion about measurements and impressions, which tend to be pretty negative in comparison with its siblings. It's a pretty different speaker from the others in the series. If you can afford the R7, that is the way to go.This is probably a silly question, but the floorstanding step-up model, the R5, is there any reason to assume it would perform any worse than the R3? Aesthetically I prefer the look of floorstanding speakers, so the R5 looks to be the next best option, but not sure how much going from bookshelf to floorstanding would affect the audio quality.
This is probably a silly question, but the floorstanding step-up model, the R5, is there any reason to assume it would perform any worse than the R3? Aesthetically I prefer the look of floorstanding speakers, so the R5 looks to be the next best option, but not sure how much going from bookshelf to floorstanding would affect the audio quality.
Remember, if you speed up your 50Hz bass by 20x you get a pretty fast 1khz mid tone!faster bass
Well at a minimum the dual woofer arrangement on the R5s should help mitigate floor/ceiling SBIR effects compared to single woofer of R3.I must confess that for my ears the R3 and R5 were almost identical in store. Got the R5 because I like the look. Dealer also claimed R5 would have faster bass in my room. I seriously doubt that but what do I know. I like the dealer so I went with "Ok man, that's great!"
To be honest, with what I know now I think whole R lineup would sound pretty same with good subs.
Problem is you cannot source the shadow flare which is critical. Without that it’s never going to sound like a factory made R Series.Want a pair of Kef R3, but lack funding, however, you own a jigsaw and it's fully paid off?
Look no further, this shop has you covered:
View attachment 253660
All you need to add is some MDF, a port, terminals and some dampening. I guess you could complete a pair for 600€.
I almost did it, ALMOST ...
Last year, I had looked at their European website and it said the same during the holiday season. Even if a meta comes out for a reasonable period of time it is going to be on full price which would be atleast 40 percent more than the current sale prices. If anyone is on a strict budget for current sale price, then looking forward to get the meta at this point is waste of listening time. Instead get the regular version now and enjoy it until the sale of new meta comes up and upgrade. If KEF sound is your sound the current R At the current prices are a perfect bargain.KEF's website now says: Promotion available through January 13th or while supplies last.
It didn't use to say 'while supplies last'. I wonder if this is further indication that they're clearing things out for an R3 Meta?
The heckerino is a shadow flare?shadow flare
The wave guide like thing around the uniq to manage the diffraction so that the tweeters waves won’t hit the edges of the cabin if am not wrong. Without it R3 won’t sound like R3. It’s plastic ring, but you need to make it in the exact smoothness and curve to get it right which is not easy. So for the current price of 529, a unit, it’s a good value for money especially considering you get a warranty of 5 years on the drivers even. With diy, if you blast it you got to buy it paying out of your pocket. Again, gettting that mirror finish painting, pin hole grill everything is hard. Don’t forget man hours. Consider if you don’t do the lowest paying job in Europe the average earning per hour would be around 25 euros. You need atleast 20 hours if your very good at this. Then, that alone is some 500 euros worth. On the top of it, if you try to sell the Orginal ones after 2 years, it would fetch you atleast 700 euros. The DIY speakers are hard to sell. If you are trying to make R3 manually it’s pointless imo.The heckerino is a shadow flare?
Hope they have a bass reflex tube for a bit of bass extension.
It sure is. If i hadn't had bought my ATCs, this would be it.good value
Someone here is selling a pair of R3s, one of which has a similar (though lesser) mark on its woofer. He'd been in touch with Kef about it and his communications with them are shown in his ebay listing, along with the price of a replacement speaker. Here's his listing on ASR, click through to ebay for further details, images, etc.Hi - long time listener, first time caller. Got a new pair of R3s the other day. The woofer on one has some pretty deep grooves. Not certain, but I think my daughter caused it while trying to pick it up while it was covered in the thin white foam wrap. Very bummed.
A few questions:
I'm in the Toronto area.
- How much do you think this will affect sound quality?
- Regardless of the answer to (1), I think I want to replace it (will have a hard time knowing it's there!); I assume it's not economical / feasible to try and repair?
- Assuming it's not worth repairing, I'd buy a new one, then sell the old damaged one. I could either buy an individual R3 for $999 or a pair for $1,770 (both CAD, both new). Am I better off buying a new pair and selling the ones I currently have (since there's a larger market for pairs), or better off buying the individual one and selling the damaged one individually? Effectively - how much do you think I'd get for a damaged single vs. one damaged + one good pair? (I suppose this might be too hard to estimate.)
- Am I missing anything?
Thank you for any and all advice!