• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

Kef LS60 wireless review by ErinsAudioCorner

View attachment 335140

Did I interpret the blue line incorrectly? I thought it was THD 100%? If not, my bad indeed.

Not at all. That would have been crazy poor performance. I think you need to read up on how to understand these graphs. :)

I guess that blue line is just to make it easier to see the difference across the 86dB and 96dB graphs. You have alternate graphs that show % distortion immediately above the ones you were looking at:
1702899058986.png
 
Thank you for your kind explanation and refraining from snarky remarks. Will correct my previous posts accordingly.
Maybe it would be easier to say that in this 96db graph,distortion is up to -30 to -40db THD (2%) around 500Hz.
Lows aside I think is too much,the speaker should be played much lower.
 
Maybe it would be easier to say that in this 96db graph,distortion is up to -30 to -40db THD (2%) around 500Hz.
Lows aside I think is too much,the speaker should be played much lower.

I agree, but I don't see how anyone would expect anything more either. It's one 130mm driver.
 
What is different in the blade that its mid/high driver can play so loud?
 
Peak at 1m 117dB according to their own specs,

Keith
 
LSX II + 4x SUB (in each unit) trying to be a floorstander:p
 
I will try again. The manual says it should work.
Also make sure that both HDMI Control (which is called different things by every single TV manufacturer, such a horrible standard) is enabled in the TV, and that you are using a recent HDMI cable since very old ones might not have the pins for CEC on it, or don't bother connecting them. The LS50W worked great for me over eARC when I had them and used a TV that was connected and had it enabled, but getting it enabled and consistently working is a pain sometimes and I spent a decade reviewing TVs and sound bars so for someone that hasn't done it before it's not intuitive.
 
Yes, and if one DIY two tower subwoofers the same hight as ls50 with stands , one can cross even higher in frequency , maybe 200 Hz ?
Those two subwoofers could be standing near each L and R speaker on the inside .

Why havent anybody done that ? Every one seems to keep buying subwoofers thats supposed to be placed on the floor where you are limited to crossover at lower frequencies , such as 80 Hz .
I do high pass my LS 50 Metas at 150 HZ to two SVS SB 2000's. Each sub is l.t. 24" from the center of the LS 50 driver, so there is less than 1/4 wavelength distance between the acoustic centers of each sub driver and its respective LS 50 Meta driver at the crossover point. So no problem with directionality as far as I can determine. Don't see why I would need a tower sub like the Rythmik FM 8 (which is what I think you are referring to) to achieve the same end.
 
I do high pass my LS 50 Metas at 150 HZ to two SVS SB 2000's. Each sub is l.t. 24" from the center of the LS 50 driver, so there is less than 1/4 wavelength distance between the acoustic centers of each sub driver and its respective LS 50 Meta driver at the crossover point. So no problem with directionality as far as I can determine. Don't see why I would need a tower sub like the Rythmik FM 8 (which is what I think you are referring to) to achieve the same end.
Isn't the rule of thump to cross at least one octave down/up of the fall of the response?
As I see in the measurements 150Hz is right at the start of the fall at SVS.

Usually it needs a good 500Hz (like Genelec's woofer W371A or some Rythmic woofer I have seen I think,as this is woofer and not sub territory) response to start crossing stuff up there.
 
Isn't the rule of thump to cross at least one octave down/up of the fall of the response?
As I see in the measurements 150Hz is right at the start of the fall at SVS.

Usually it needs a good 500Hz (like Genelec's woofer W371A or some Rythmic woofer I have seen I think,as this is woofer and not sub territory) response to start crossing stuff up there.
I don't know why that would be necessary. Never heard of that. OG SB 2000 is flat to 25-150 hz, I use DLBC to set the crossover, so I think everything should be ok. Sounds good to my ears.
 
Isn't the rule of thump to cross at least one octave down/up of the fall of the response?
As I see in the measurements 150Hz is right at the start of the fall at SVS.

Usually it needs a good 500Hz (like Genelec's woofer W371A or some Rythmic woofer I have seen I think,as this is woofer and not sub territory) response to start crossing stuff up there.

I guess this is a tip mainly directed at the other end, so if your speakers roll off at 50hz, you should cross them over at 100hz.

For a subwoofer that doesn't go very high and/or have uneven response at the top end it could of course be problematic at that end too, but that should be easy to measure/check.
 
I guess this is a tip mainly directed at the other end, so if your speakers roll off at 50hz, you should cross them over at 100hz.

For a subwoofer that doesn't go very high and/or have uneven response at the top end it could of course be problematic at that end too, but that should be easy to measure/check.
I guess you're right,the little I have read about it has to do more with the complex interactions happening at the start of the fall of the response,so...
Way above my pay grade,I would just follow the rule just for safety I suppose.
 
What is different in the blade that its mid/high driver can play so loud?
The Blade 1 has a 1" tweeter, 5" mid, and 4x9" woofers. LS60 has 3/4", 4" and 4x5". It's actually pretty small and because of the way the tweeter takes up space in the midrange that does affect output.

That said, the limiter seems very aggressive in the midrange to me. The 8331a, with its 3.5" midrange and tiny cabinet does better than this speaker at 102dB. That screams over-limiting to me. Especially when Genelec's limiting is known conservative to preserve driver lifespan.

Genelec%208331A_Compression.png


The 8331A can probably play a clean 100hz-5khz 99dB anechoic but this cannot? What??
 
I had the genelec 8331 on trial. Magnificent speaker but it really couldn't play loud. Limiter red light showed up very soon. Had to return it. Although some months in between, I would think the LS60 can play considerably louder.
 
I had the genelec 8331 on trial. Magnificent speaker but it really couldn't play loud. Limiter red light showed up very soon. Had to return it. Although some months in between, I would think the LS60 can play considerably louder.

It shouldn't really be a surprise that such a small speaker can't play loud out of 3 ft. It's a souped up Sonos 1.. ;)

1702993461885.png
 
Back
Top Bottom