Just how good is the Dayton DSP-408 compared to miniDSp 2x4 HD?

[Cahudson42]

Number of channels aside, anyone please comment on performance comparison? (DAC capabilities also aside - don't need 'em)

Application is speakers for Home Theater, not HP. Still, how is SINAD? Any hiss? I hate hiss

Will be used to replace 'crossover's in a pair of Dayton 652AIR, as well as PEQ.

If the 408 is at least tolerable performance, the addition left-over 4 channels will be used to create a stacked pair of L &R channels with a 2nd pair of 652. (Doing so now via AVR bi-amping)

AFAIK, the 2x4 needs a PC to configure - a real nusiance imo. The 408 has an Android app which seems complete...an advantage if true..

Any thoughts, suggestions greatly appreciated..

 

[Severian]

I use one for crossover and EQ and I'm happy with it. There is a bit of hiss in my system, but I can't say whether the source is the DSP-408 or my Crown XLS1002, which is the only amp I've ever used it with. The hiss is not audible at 3-4 feet where I sit. People tolerate much more from studio monitors. Amazingly, it doesn't pick up ground loop noise when it's connected to my PC, unlike every other USB audio device I use.

The software is basic but functional. I don't own the Bluetooth add-on and so haven't tried the phone app.

I've not tested it or anything. I think my system sounds great, so as far as I'm concerned it's audibly transparent.

I am currently looking to replace it, but only because I would like to move to an all-balanced system due to pesky ground loop issues unrelated to the DSP-408. Most likely with one of the t.racks DSP units sold by Thomann.

I think its most significant missing feature is lack of digital audio input so you can't skip the ADC step like you can with a miniDSP 2x4 HD. If that doesn't matter though, I'd say the Dayton is a no-brainer for the price and flexibility afforded by the 4x8 I/O. I love the ability to run two devices into it.

 

[AnalogSteph]

Let's collect a few specs:
Max input level 3.2 Vrms
Max output level 3.5 Vrms
It uses the AD ADAU1701 -
A/D SNR 100 dB
D/A SNR 104 dB
XLS1002 SNR >97 dB(A) at full power out (2x 215 W / 8 ohms), 0.775 Vrms in (Gv = +34.6 dB)

104 dB re: 3.5 Vrms is ~91 dB re: 0.775 Vrms and ~96.5 dB re: 1.5 Vrms, so you definitely need a power amp with an input level control to avoid excessive hiss. In case of the XLS1002, I'd go for something like a -12 dB setting, wherever that is (1-2 o'clock?).

100 dB @ 3.2 Vrms in (that's 96 dB @ 2 Vrms in) means that you'll want at least part of your volume control to be happening within the DSP, so you can run a relatively hot signal into it. As a rule of thumb, shooting for overall unity gain from preamp input to power amp output at normal volume is not too far off, so we'd still have about 22 dB to spare. Mind you, max output at this point would only be half a watt into 8 ohms at 2 Vrms in, so maybe that's a bit too much. But 10 dB, why not. This setting is going to vary per output channel according to driver sensitivity and frequency range - a 85 dB/W/m sub is going to be far less critical than a 100 dB/W/m tweeter.
It would be nice to have both input and output gain controls for the DSP, and quite possibly it does. I assume that internal processing dynamic range would be quite a few more than either ADC or DAC, you'd have a degree of freedom there. Then you could adjust output gains and leave those, with input gain serving as part of the volume control to accomodate usage patterns (e.g. quiet listening vs. a party or something).

 

[Severian]

I don't have the software in front of me right now, but it has a single master preamp gain control along with controls for each channel. They are not labeled as input or output gain; I suppose I've always regarded them as input gain in my head although I don't know if that's correct. I have the master preamp gain set to -3dB to accommodate a low shelf bass boost and a -1.5dB gain to one channel of my mains to subjectively correct a slight channel imbalance.

Currently my input signal is the unbalanced output from my MOTU M4, which another member here recently measured as maxing out at about 2.5Vrms. Previously, the input signal was the preamp output from a JDS Labs Atom being fed by a Modi 3. This was definitely a hotter signal than the M4 provides and required a bit less gain on the amplifier.

I have the gain knobs on the XLS1002 set around 3 o'clock right now. I've found this is the sweet spot for minimizing hiss and hitting my max SPL tolerance. My Idunns are spec'd at 85dB efficient.

 

[raindance]

I just received one of these to experiment with. Initial impressions are that it's a lot better than the base mini DSP I used some years back - it can achieve unity gain in my system without clipping, whereas the mini DSP introduced a loss. I use it between preamp and power amp, so the signal to noise ratio is probably pretty bad at lower volumes, but it sounds audibly transparent so far - which I did not find with the mini DSP. It does add a little hiss that's audible up close to the speakers. But it's quite a lot lower than the JBL LSR305P MK II hiss level.

 

[iMickey503]

Crossing fingers, going to pick one up today Hopefully!

 

[delebru]

I was looking to tri-amp my main speakers to see what I could get out of them and decided to give this DSP a try. The unit is well constructed and mostly made with good quality components, the software is fairly good and easy to understand, but that's where my compliments end. I used it with the provided power adapter, and the noise floor when the unit is active is quite high. To combat this, the DSP automatically lowers the output after some moments without any input. This made it pretty annoying to use on my main home theater speakers where the mains don't produce any sound at periods of time, and when they do get signal, you miss the first few milliseconds until the DSP reacts. It was also not great for music reproduction, where the base noise was quite audible when playing at low levels.

I would consider this DSP if I ever need one for a car setup where the noise floor isn't such a problem, but certainly not for my home audio.

For reference, this is how I had the unit setup: Marantz AV8804 => Dayton DSP-408 => Anthem PVA7 => Focal Aria 963.
I also have a MiniDSP DDRC-88A which I use for room correction and it's dead silent when compared to the DSP-408.