Is there a custom made baffles service out there?

[iMickey503]

Bought these tectonic drivers from Parts express & was wondering if there are services out there that make custom trim rings for these or Baffles?

i want to flush mount these into pods, but I would like them flush in a trim ring.

So I was wondering if any of you know anyone that does that as a service that takes the Driver measurements from the Spec sheet of the manufacturer, and creates a custom trim ring or baffle for you?






I have not has any luck just looking for one. And I think I would have to contact some CNC place to get it done.

How do the rest of you flush mount drivers for your builds? Do you just get a CNC machine? I'm about to spend money on a 3D printer if that's the way to go. What would you do? It would be my first time working with drivers that I custom flush mount.

I plan to use them in some speaker pods without grills, so that's why I wanted them to look nice.

Do you have any suggestions? I guess I could use Bondo and wood filler. But again. I never flush mounted before.

Model is the :

Tectonic TEBM35C10-4 BMR 2" Full-Range Speaker 4 Ohm​

I really don't NEED to do it. I just wanted to do it to give the install a nice look that would look nice and almost OEM.

Later, I plan to build some Mini speakers for fun. So I was wondering what you Pro's do?

 

[DVDdoug]

How do the rest of you flush mount drivers for your builds?

I've never done a flush-mount but I have a circle cutting jig for my router. I could cut a circular groove first, then reduce the diameter and increase the depth to cut the hole. (Or cut the hole with a hole-saw.)

...I've also never made such a small hole with the circle-cutting jig, normally I'd use a hole-saw, but I think it would work.

Since your speaker isn't perfectly round you could drill the clearance holes for the "tabs" first using a depth-stop on your drill bit, or the depth-stop on a drill press. (Use a Brad-point bit or a Forstner bit to get a clean cut and an almost flat-bottom hole.)

Or, you could surface-mount the drivers and glue-on a separate full-size trim-layer that could glued to the backing-baffle. You could use drills, a hole-saw or a jig-saw, etc. You'd probably have to figure-out an alignment jig (especially if you are using multiple drivers) and/or you might need to make & bond the trim-layer first before cutting the main thru-holes.

 

[carbidetooth]

Out of curiosity, I drew this using manufacturers' specs. Two things of note:

1. If there's a dimension for depth of rabbet I missed it. This is shown at .125.
2. They don't mention or show in any way, but the driver mounting holes will intersect the edge of thru-hole. If it were me, I'd add material there. From photos it would appear there would be room to do as I've drawn.

If you're looking for a ring to hide fasteners and pretty things up, I suspect 3d printing would be best bet. Maybe pegs to slide into two of the mounting holes.

 

[iMickey503]

Since your speaker isn't perfectly round you could drill the clearance holes for the "tabs" first using a depth-stop on your drill bit, or the depth-stop on a drill press. (Use a Brad-point bit or a Forstner bit to get a clean cut and an almost flat-bottom hole.)

EUREKA!

Out of curiosity, I drew this using manufacturers' specs. Two things of note:

1. If there's a dimension for depth of rabbet I missed it. This is shown at .125.
2. They don't mention or show in any way, but the driver mounting holes will intersect the edge of thru-hole. If it were me, I'd add material there. From photos it would appear there would be room to do as I've drawn.

If you're looking for a ring to hide fasteners and pretty things up, I suspect 3d printing would be best bet. Maybe pegs to slide into two of the mounting holes.

I am floored. I went as far as Drafting in Mac Draft years ago. But never finished CAD/CAM. And you just drew that up like I make spaghetti from scratch. Amazing what skills people have you just run into.

Thank you both so much!

 

[carbidetooth]

You'd laugh if you watched me make spaghetti, so there's that.

I did have another thought. If you were to mount these on the backside of baffle you could get by with a simple round hole. Perhaps bevel the "exit" on front. A waveguide of sorts. That assumes you'd have access to do so or a removable baffle.