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Is DIRAC using the right thing in a 2.2 set up?

I plugged the ports of the KEF R3 (the front of the speakers are 50 cm from the wall), I think if I look at the measurements it does a fine job.
I thought of the LS50 meta's but I like the flexibility of the KEF R3M, think they are gorgeous and enjoy lower crossovers (if possible).
But of course would've been happy with the LS50 meta.
Keep in mind that with plugging the port on R3s you're losing some SPL at low frequencies from R3s. I still don't understand why you decided to close the ports? Was there port chuffing?
 
Keep in mind that with plugging the port on R3s you're losing some SPL at low frequencies from R3s. I still don't understand why you decided to close the ports? Was there port chuffing?
It was the advice if the KEFs are close to the walls. But I can always unplug them.
But given this steep XO @ 60 Hz it should be fine I would think.
 
It was the advice if the KEFs are close to the walls. But I can always unplug them.
But given this steep XO @ 60 Hz it should be fine I would think.
The KEF R3 speakers are rear-ported, meaning their bass output can be amplified by proximity to walls due to boundary reinforcement. At 50 cm, you’re likely getting some bass boost, but it’s not as extreme as if they were closer (e.g., 10–20 cm). If the bass sounds boomy, muddy, or overpowering in your room, closing the port with the provided foam bungs can help tighten the low-end response.

When to Close the Port:
  • Close it if you notice excessive bass or a lack of clarity in the midrange, which can happen if the room reinforces low frequencies too much.
  • Keep it open if the bass feels balanced and well-integrated with the rest of the sound, as closing the port reduces bass output and may make the sound leaner than intended.
I personally would keep it open, but it's up to you. The main thing is to understand why you should do or not do something and trust your ears and measurements, and not someone else's advice (not from me though, you should trust my advice. Kidding :) )
 
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Looks better, much lower distortions (previously were sky high), still...your room is very reverberant. How does it sound ??
Sounds much much better now.
The room is a living room so not a dedicated listening room. But I really don't mind reverberation as long as there is no audible echo.
 
The KEF R3 speakers are rear-ported, meaning their bass output can be amplified by proximity to walls due to boundary reinforcement. At 50 cm, you’re likely getting some bass boost, but it’s not as extreme as if they were closer (e.g., 10–20 cm). If the bass sounds boomy, muddy, or overpowering in your room, closing the port with the provided foam bungs can help tighten the low-end response.

When to Close the Port:
  • Close it if you notice excessive bass or a lack of clarity in the midrange, which can happen if the room reinforces low frequencies too much.
  • Keep it open if the bass feels balanced and well-integrated with the rest of the sound, as closing the port reduces bass output and may make the sound leaner than intended.
I personally would keep it open, but it's up to you. The main thing is to understand why you should do or not do something and trust your ears and measurements, and not someone else's advice (not from me though, you should trust my advice. Kidding :)
I think I saw a measurement (and my own) where the rolloff when plugged would allow for a crossover at 60 Hz.
But I'll experiment with it.
 
still...your room is very reverberant
It's our curse :( My 32-square-meter (350-square-foot) space with 4.5-meter-high ceilings, irregular walls, with their many corners, will be very difficult and expensive to treat :(

I love my KRK speakers and subwoofer system; the sound is fantastic. However, when I switch to my Hifiman HE1000 headphones—my top choice after testing dozens of headphones in the $2,000 range—the difference in clarity is significant. The headphones deliver crisp, precise sound, while the speakers, affected by room reflections, produce a muddier output.
 
It's our curse :( My 32-square-meter (350-square-foot) space with 4.5-meter-high ceilings, irregular walls, with their many corners, will be very difficult and expensive to treat :(

I love my KRK speakers and subwoofer system; the sound is fantastic. However, when I switch to my Hifiman HE1000 headphones—my top choice after testing dozens of headphones in the $2,000 range—the difference in clarity is significant. The headphones deliver crisp, precise sound,
I enjoy listening to music through speakers so much more than headphones though. So I happily accept the reverb
 
I enjoy listening to music through speakers so much more than headphones though. So I happily accept the reverb
I probably preferred my top headphones before I got the subs. But now, with the subs, it's an experience that headphones simply can't physically deliver...
 
I probably preferred my top headphones before I got the subs. But now, with the subs, it's an experience that headphones simply can't physically deliver...
But when I switch from the speakers to the headphones it makes me sad a little bit, because I hear the difference in clarity :(
 
I probably preferred my top headphones before I got the subs. But now, with the subs, it's an experience that headphones simply can't physically deliver...
I wholeheartedly agree on this
 
So far, DIRAC up to 100 Hz seems to give the best results
 
After getting some custom made filters from a fellow forum member (@OCA), that seems to outperform them all.
I'll see if I can post some measurements the coming days.
 
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A bit late, but this I ended up with the total 2.2 system with the filters made by OCA.
It has a crossover at 100 Hz.
It sounds simply wonderful.
OCA_filters.jpg



If I apply very simple PEQ and crossover at 80 Hz with 48 dB/oct I end up with this
SimplePEQ_filters.jpg


I don't notice the nulls audibly (but of course I have no A/B/X testing).

Thanks everyone for helping out.
 
But, since the curiousity is still there, would it make sence to buy a Denon X-3800H (or 4800H), user the NC252MP as an amp for the mains and implement DIRAC ART?
Everything I read on it is kinda cool, but seems like it's more for surround systems, but I could implement it on my 2.2 system.
@OCA told me it's probably not a good investment, but happy to hear some more thoughts.
 
Glad you got great sound!

Why do you think you need DIRAC ART if you've already used measurements of your system to calibrate it?

I'm not sure that I understand your plan. Do you want to replace miniDSP with Denon X-3800H?

Anyway, looking at the price of Denon X-3800H I'm pretty skeptical. The biggest sound improvement comes from

1) Speakers themselves
2) Calibration
3) Room treatment

And only after that we should talk about replacing currently working DAC/AMPs. I doubt Denon X-3800H will make a significant difference in your setup.
 
Glad you got great sound!

Why do you think you need DIRAC ART if you've already used measurements of your system to calibrate it?

I'm not sure that I understand your plan. Do you want to replace miniDSP with Denon X-3800H?

Anyway, looking at the price of Denon X-3800H I'm pretty skeptical. The biggest sound improvement comes from

1) Speakers themselves
2) Calibration
3) Room treatment

And only after that we should talk about replacing currently working DAC/AMPs. I doubt Denon X-3800H will make a significant difference in your setup.
No, it would be to apply a different calibration (ART). I just enjoy the hype around it.

I'm not planning on it but maybe someone has a strong opinion on ART versus the software OCA wrote.
 
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