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Intona USB 3.0 Isolator Review

MC_RME

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The issue was caused inside the laptop, due to two USB interfaces connected and those connected to each other unbalanced. On battery didn't help.
 

spiritofjerry

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Any half-decent DAC -- and I am talking $99 and above -- produces great performance by filtering its own USB power. And isolating its digital stream from the DAC output.
I'm having USB ground loop issues (confirmed) using the Soncoz LA-QXD1, a highly praised DAC around these parts. These isolators work perfectly for crushing USB ground loops.
 

Lambda

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Not many DACs have isolated USB inputs or lets say isolated Analog outputs.
Isolating USB is Especially 3.0 is very hard and expensive. Buts isolating Just the DAC IC and the analog part from the digital side of the DAC is super easy.

The I2S and SPI lines to the IC can easily be isolated with of the shelf digital isolatior ICs.
Some ~1000$ DACs do this but i have not see it in any 99$ class DAC...

Even though its seems like a ground loop with a PC is the most common issue.
 
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Is there any sense in buying the 3.0 version just for "future proofing"? Wouldn't the 2.0 isolator work just as well with possible 3.0 interfaces of future DAC's? I only listen to stereo and have downsampled all 192 and 96 kHz files to 88.2 kHz max and in many cases even to 48 kHz with Izotope RX - in other words, I don't need the bandwidth (nor the bus power for that matter).
 

DJBonoBobo

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I have the 2.0 version of this and it didn't work with a bus powered Motu M4 - not enough power got through. I guess the 3.0 version would have worked, because of higher power output.
I exchanged the Motu with a RME UCX II instead of buying another isolator, though.
 
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Yeah, I'm aware there can be issues, if the DAC is run on USB power. I think the wisest move is to buy the "cheapest" 1kV USB 2.0 Intona, especially since I just upgraded my DAC and it's externally powered. You'll never know what you may need 5 years from now anyway.
 

Lambda

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not enough power got through.
Use a powered USB hub or a cable like this
41nWEk7w8SL._AC_SS450_.jpg
 

Atanasi

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A self-powered hub on the isolated side should also provide enough power and has the best compatibility. However, the power supply has to be sufficiently isolated in order to preserve the benefits. Some USB hubs take their power from a 5 V supply, those could even be powered with a power bank.
 

DJBonoBobo

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A self-powered hub on the isolated side should also provide enough power and has the best compatibility. However, the power supply has to be sufficiently isolated in order to preserve the benefits. Some USB hubs take their power from a 5 V supply, those could even be powered with a power bank.
Yes, i tried that. Worked for some time, but i ran into connection problems and some day lost my temper.
 

MC_RME

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The 3.0 version has more power, but can also easily be powered externally for even more current. It's small form factor and better looks add to the 'future proof' aspect. But it's your money, so you need to decide.
 

Veri

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If you want future proof:
Some of these Corning cables on amazon have 2.5/3 stars and lots of bad reviews. I'm not sure how long these optical cables last, some seem to break really quickly (so perhaps not that future proof? :p).
 

nnitr

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I have got quite a specific problem and was wondering if anyone could tell me whether a USB isolator would fix it:

The problem I would like to solve in my current situation is that in graphically intensive games my PC generates a rather loud humming noise through my RME ADI-2 DAC into my active speakers and sub via XLR, when connected via USB - not via SPDIF though.
 

DJBonoBobo

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Doodski

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I have got quite a specific problem and was wondering if anyone could tell me whether a USB isolator would fix it:

The problem I would like to solve in my current situation is that in graphically intensive games my PC generates a rather loud humming noise through my RME ADI-2 DAC into my active speakers and sub via XLR, when connected via USB - not via SPDIF though.
I gave you a like because this is a interesting issue. This not a uncommon issue with PC to audio system interfacing. I am veryyy fortunate that I have a silent PC but I bought the more expensive gear and it paid off I think. It's either your video card, the motherboard or the power supply.
 

Blumlein 88

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I have got quite a specific problem and was wondering if anyone could tell me whether a USB isolator would fix it:

The problem I would like to solve in my current situation is that in graphically intensive games my PC generates a rather loud humming noise through my RME ADI-2 DAC into my active speakers and sub via XLR, when connected via USB - not via SPDIF though.
I also have the same question about whether SPDIF is coax or Toslink.

The most likely issue is a ground loop. If your speakers are on a different circuit than your RME and computer you have the possibility of that even via XLR.
 
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It is a good thing audio quality does not change.
Quite certain it does what it is designed for: breaking ground loops/electrical isolation from the PC yet using the USB for convenience.
Yes - there have been a few times where I have had noise issues caused by a bad laptop power supply inducing audible noise via an audio interface / powered speakers. My only choice was to run the laptop on battery.
 

nnitr

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When you say "SPDIF", do you mean Toslink (optical) or Coax (RCA/electrical)?
Sorry, I mean optical.

I gave you a like because this is a interesting issue. This not a uncommon issue with PC to audio system interfacing. I am veryyy fortunate that I have a silent PC but I bought the more expensive gear and it paid off I think. It's either your video card, the motherboard or the power supply.
I am quite sure that it is from the video card, as the humming only occurs in graphically intensive applications.

I also have the same question about whether SPDIF is coax or Toslink.

The most likely issue is a ground loop. If your speakers are on a different circuit than your RME and computer you have the possibility of that even via XLR.
So you mean the USB isolator would not be the solution to my problem? I thought it might be USB ground loop, as I sometimes can „hear“ mouse movement for example.
 

Doodski

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I am quite sure that it is from the video card, as the humming only occurs in graphically intensive applications.
Yes, that is what appears on the surface but go down a couple of levels in the circuit design(s) and it becomes apparent that any of those 3 that I mentioned can be at fault. :D
 

Blumlein 88

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You can try running it with battery only. The fact Toslink stops it pretty well means it is a ground loop problem. You also might try other USB ports on your computer.
 
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