• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

Integra DRX-8.4

I think you will need 4 height / Atmos channels to get Auro3D.

Makes perfect sense. I should have a 5.1.4 system installed by the end of the year. Zone 2 is really cool with Tidal. I use a pair of KEF CI 160QL speakers in my office.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7786.jpeg
    IMG_7786.jpeg
    204.2 KB · Views: 97
How does it compare with pure direct mode, that is no room correction, no Accueq no Dirac Live?

Quite different, my friend. Pure mode is very neutral and flat on my system. It plays nicely, but it doesn't have the same impact as Stereo with the sub.
 
Quite different, my friend. Pure mode is very neutral and flat on my system. It plays nicely, but it doesn't have the same impact as Stereo with the sub.
Okay then your issue is with how you run RC, so getting a Umik-1 is a good idea. I always use REW with RC.
 
Glad to hear you got good results! One thing to note if you want to continue to experiment with Dirac is that you can save calibrations into 3 different slots. If you have AccuEQ on Slot 1, for instance, then you could try to run a Dirac calibration on Slot 2 or 3. I recommend keeping your AccuEQ calibration on a dedicated slot so that you can always switch back to it. I have been meaning to try an AccuEQ calibration myself so that I can enable Double Bass but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

You are a very helpful guy on the forum.
I will wait for the UMIK 1 to arrive to do the final calibration with the room set up with the panels.
For now I will continue with the AccuEQ which is very good.
 
Okay then your issue is with how you run RC, so getting a Umik-1 is a good idea. I always use REW with RC.

I'll need your help to do these tests. Excuse my ignorance. What does RC mean? Calibration? kkkk

I borrowed this Logitech Blue microphone from a friend. Will it work for running DL?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7791.jpeg
    IMG_7791.jpeg
    232.4 KB · Views: 85
Makes perfect sense. I should have a 5.1.4 system installed by the end of the year. Zone 2 is really cool with Tidal. I use a pair of KEF CI 160QL speakers in my office.
Yep. Before I installed my height speakers, I could only get "Auro Surround". Now with a 5.2.4 system using KEF CI200RR-THX in-ceiling speakers, the system reports "AURO-3D" and the height channels are quite active with this upmixer.
 
I'll need your help to do these tests. Excuse my ignorance. What does RC mean? Calibration? kkkk

I borrowed this Logitech Blue microphone from a friend. Will it work for running DL?
Dirac *might* allow you to use it, but without a calibration file, the results will be unpredictable. Best to wait for the UMIK-1 to arrive.
 
Dirac *might* allow you to use it, but without a calibration file, the results will be unpredictable. Best to wait for the UMIK-1 to arrive.

I just did a test on the PC. It appears on the notebook screen with the DL, but I can't calibrate the microphone to run the test.
 
I discovered the mystery. I changed the setup of my Atmos from Top Rear to Top Front and Auro 3D appeared.
I took the opportunity and connected the Gryphon integrated in the pre out front of the 8.4.
Later I will do a test to feel the changes in Stereo.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7804.jpeg
    IMG_7804.jpeg
    192.9 KB · Views: 98
  • IMG_7811.jpeg
    IMG_7811.jpeg
    162.6 KB · Views: 102
I discovered the mystery. I changed the setup of my Atmos from Top Rear to Top Front and Auro 3D appeared.
I took the opportunity and connected the Gryphon integrated in the pre out front of the 8.4.
Later I will do a test to feel the changes in Stereo.
Another suggestion - use REW to measure your current "profile" - as we don't know what the AccuEQ target is.

Then when you run DL you can use REW measurements to dual it in to the target you prefer... (and use REW to measure post DL tuning)
 
Another super important detail is the break-in time of the receiver + cables. All my Furutech box cables, power cables and banana plugs are new. We know that the ideal is to burn more than 200 hours to make them sound better.
 
We know that the ideal is to burn more than 200 hours to make them sound better.
Just curious, who are "We"? I've got the impression that the need for burn in of something like amps and other audio electronic devices (at least for something as long as 200 hours) have been debunked, let alone being super important.. in multiple ways multiple times, plenty of articles on the internet. So, I think you just have to work on using REW/Umik-1 to guide you tweak for better results with DL.
 
I'll need your help to do these tests. Excuse my ignorance. What does RC mean? Calibration? kkkk

I borrowed this Logitech Blue microphone from a friend. Will it work for running DL?
Sorry, RC is the abbreviation I used for room correction.
 
Just curious, who are "We"? I've got the impression that the need for burn in of something like amps and other audio electronic devices (at least for something as long as 200 hours) have been debunked, let alone being super important.. in multiple ways multiple times, plenty of articles on the internet. So, I think you just have to work on using REW/Umik-1 to guide you tweak for better results with DL.

Yes, the best way is to adjust the REW/UMIK 1, but burning is also important. I have and have had several HI-END equipment and I can confirm that burning changes the audio. I don't know if it applies to AVR, but in cables, speakers and amplifier/integrated it makes a lot of difference.

At least it always happened with my equipment.
 
Last edited:
Yes, the best way is to adjust the REW/UMIK 1, but burning is also important. I have and have had several HI-END equipment and I can confirm that burning changes the audio. I don't know if it applies to AVR, but in cables, speakers and amplifier/integrated it makes a lot of difference.

At least it always happened with my equipment.
Burn-in may apply to older tube amps but is it still necessary for solid state?
 
Burn-in may apply to older tube amps but is it still necessary for solid state?

I've been in this hobby for over 20 years and have always enjoyed good stereo sound.

Valve equipment has never been my thing.
But I have no doubt that it is mandatory.
Even to do a serious audition you have to wait a while for it to warm up.

Burning high-quality amplifiers and integrated circuits is very common. This is a basic practice in the Hi-End world.

Buy a new Hegel H590 or H600 and audition it. You'll be disappointed.

We're talking about high-performance equipment with top-notch speakers with dedicated electrical systems, balanced acoustics, quality cabling, etc.

That's why I'm not sure if it will happen with AVRs. Because the links are usually weak.

Burning cables is a controversial subject, but it's completely normal with amplifiers.

Anyway, I'll say again that my experiences with Hi-End equipment have always changed with burn-in, but no one is obliged to believe that
 
For the first time I did a calibration (DL) with 13 points + IMAC. It was incredible how much better it was compared to the App.

I increased the DL from 9db to 11db (front and center) in the graph to get a gain. I changed the crossover from 70Hz to 40Hz in the front and center.

Now it's MUCH better than before. I believe it will be perfect with the UMIK 1. Every day the sound improves. Happy with today's result.

I would like your opinion regarding the DL correction.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7871.jpeg
    IMG_7871.jpeg
    243 KB · Views: 84
  • IMG_7872.jpeg
    IMG_7872.jpeg
    350.8 KB · Views: 81
  • IMG_7887.jpeg
    IMG_7887.jpeg
    283.7 KB · Views: 85
  • IMG_7868.jpeg
    IMG_7868.jpeg
    206 KB · Views: 93
  • IMG_7865.jpeg
    IMG_7865.jpeg
    185.8 KB · Views: 94
Last edited:
For the first time I did a calibration (DL) with 13 points + IMAC. It was incredible how much better it was compared to the App.

I increased the DL from 9db to 11db (front and center) in the graph to get a gain. I changed the crossover from 70Hz to 40Hz in the front and center.

Now it's MUCH better than before. I believe it will be perfect with the UMIK 1. Every day the sound improves. Happy with today's result.

I would like your opinion regarding the DL correction.
Glad to see it's working out better this way. I have only done Dirac Live calibration via Mac/PC, so I don't really have any experience with the App-based calibration, but I am not surprised you are getting better results. Something you might be interested in investigating on down the road is adding the optional Bass Control module, particularly if you choose to add a 2nd subwoofer. It will allow you to make very fine-grained adjustments to the crossover frequency per speaker group (down to 1 Hz increments) and my experience in a multi-sub configuration is that it does a very good job of creating an even bass response across the room.
 
Glad to see it's working out better this way. I have only done Dirac Live calibration via Mac/PC, so I don't really have any experience with the App-based calibration, but I am not surprised you are getting better results. Something you might be interested in investigating on down the road is adding the optional Bass Control module, particularly if you choose to add a 2nd subwoofer. It will allow you to make very fine-grained adjustments to the crossover frequency per speaker group (down to 1 Hz increments) and my experience in a multi-sub configuration is that it does a very good job of creating an even bass response across the room.
I would add the caveat that PAC needs to fix the current DLBM/DLBC implementation before anyone puts down money on the product!

I think an older version of Dirac is not susceptible to the "off by 1" bug but the latest PAC firmware definitely doesn't play nice w/the latest Dirac version.
 
Back
Top Bottom