Inside Yamaha amps

[Viriatusrex]

Hello everyone, just an

Silly question, but on the 'DC on input vibe, can you disconnect all inputs, turn volume to minimum and then power on to see if it warms up the same?

I had a CA1000mk2 thirty years ago, gifted back to me by the gent I sold it to in 1976... Set to 'Class A,' it got very warm to the touch on its air vents, but certainly not to egg-frying temperatures as say, the awful Musical Fidelity A1 did on its fluted top cover (these latter things became a cult product and measurements were the pits, deliberately I reckon)

hello everyone, just an update about my A-S 2200. Having bought a Supra DC Blocker the toroidal hum has been reduced by 95% . It still gets a bit too warm however.

 

[GuyIsDamGood]

(if there's any owners of the A-S2200 that's concerned of the Left Heat-Sink being warmer than the right heat-sink during play-back) I contacted Yamaha to ask why.

Yamaha's reply:

-"most of the A-S2200 circuitry is on the left-side of that amplifier. It's the reason for the warmer temperatures compared to the right heat-sink. The amplifier is equipped with over-heat sensors; to safe-guard the amplifier. If the amplifier isn't shutting down; it's playing at a safe temperature."

(I'm concerned with the A-S2200 Integrated Amplifier. I'm going to allow more heat to escape the amplifier by raising what I have on top of it; by 3 - 4-inches)

 

[Old_School_Brad]

I had the A-S1000. It got noticeable warmer in the side with the circuit boards as well. So much and so quickly that I thought of getting the FLIR out but never did. Some of these smaller components must run hot..

The heat sinks themselves should be at the same temperature. If they're not, you should check the bias to ensure it's set correctly.

 

[Viriatusrex]

I had the A-S1000. It got noticeable warmer in the side with the circuit boards as well. So much and so quickly that I thought of getting the FLIR out but never did. Some of these smaller components must run hot..
View attachment 407915

The heat sinks themselves should be at the same temperature. If they're not, you should check the bias to ensure it's set correctly.

Thank you very much for the explanation and photo... I considered sending the amp to service to check the bias, but I got a bit tired of having silver faced gear not handled correctly, and get it back with scuffs (and then filing a dispute, etc, etc) so I'll just leave it with more space on top and not leave it on for more than 5 hours... Meanwhile I solved the humming transformer problem... A DC blocker solved the problem, these things are reaaaally prone to humming even with slightest bit of DC running in.

 

[Old_School_Brad]

Thank you very much for the explanation and photo... I considered sending the amp to service to check the bias, but I got a bit tired of having silver faced gear not handled correctly, and get it back with scuffs (and then filing a dispute, etc, etc) so I'll just leave it with more space on top and not leave it on for more than 5 hours... Meanwhile I solved the humming transformer problem... A DC blocker solved the problem, these things are reaaaally prone to humming even with slightest bit of DC running in.

Toroidal transformers are more likely to hum due to their increased sensitivity to DC components or irregularities in the AC power supply.

 

[GuyIsDamGood]

Most of the time I play the music (alternative -rock, jazz, r-n-b and indie) loud (118 - 120db). - The Amplifier is bound to get warm (near hot-ish).

Yamaha told me: "90° - 105° heat-sink temperature isn't that hot for an amplifier".

I'm going to give the A-S2200 more space (4.5") above it; to help the heat escape. Also; I'll play the music loud for shorter durations.

 

[Doodski]

Yamaha told me: "90° - 105° heat-sink temperature isn't that hot for an amplifier".

Is that in F or C?

 

[Audiofire]

Only true for Fahrenheit - the amplifier is Class A/B.

 

[Palmer]

I have to give a shout out to Yamaha and the venerable M-4, years back I acquired a bunch of them for little money, amp by amp. I have had one running 24/7 for the last 15 years without fault and it recently began buzzing in one channel on idle. No problem - went to the shelf, got one out, brought it up with a rheostat and voila - runs fine and quiet as a church mouse in idle. Even all the lamps work. Now I can fix the bad one up. I love those amplifiers. Of course I have a P-2200 as well...

 

[GuyIsDamGood]

(the temperatures are in Fahrenheit)

I played the A-S2200 yesterday while the room was 61°-Fahrenheit; (loud - 113-db) after three-hours. The left Heat-sink was 92°. The right Heat-sink was 86°. (the Rotel RB-1582 Mkii External Amplifier ran cooler also)

It looks like the cool-room temperatures is probably the solution. . . . .(?)

 

[Audiofire]

So yeah. Yamaha is right. At the same time, cool temperatures are good for electronics depending heat dissipation design (aim for absolute max of about 105-120 in Fahrenheit).

 

[Old_School_Brad]

(the temperatures are in Fahrenheit)

I played the A-S2200 yesterday while the room was 61°-Fahrenheit; (loud - 113-db) after three-hours. The left Heat-sink was 92°. The right Heat-sink was 86°. (the Rotel RB-1582 Mkii External Amplifier ran cooler also)

It looks like the cool-room temperatures is probably the solution. . . . .(?)

Apologies, but this is the second time I’ve noticed a loosely mentioned dB value above 100 in your posts, and it’s bothering my OCD not knowing the details behind what seems like a high SPL value for a relatively weak amplifier.

• Is it dBA, dBC, average, or peak?
• At what distance?
• And how was it measured (which device)?

 

[Audiofire]

I played the A-S2200 yesterday while the room was 61°-Fahrenheit; (loud - 113-db) after three-hours.

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Decibel-levels-per-hour-Loud-noise-can-damage-your-hearing-Source-National-Institute_fig1_379766829

 

[GuyIsDamGood]

I measured the SPL of the room with the American Recorder SPL-8810A.

I placed the SPL device 7.5" from my 2.2-channel system.

I checked the SPL in the room; set on dbC - max/peak - fast.

(I like to play the music loud - while not being in the room) - - - - - I have two Martin Logan Dynamo 1600X Subwoofers connected to the Yamaha A-S2200 - the Klipsch RF-7iii Tower Speakers are connected to the Rotel RB-1582 Mkii External Amplifier. To my knowledge; everything can play clear and loud.

 

[Old_School_Brad]

I measured the SPL of the room with the American Recorder SPL-8810A.

I placed the SPL device 7.5" from my 2.2-channel system.

I checked the SPL in the room; set on dbC - max/peak - fast.

(I like to play the music loud - while not being in the room) - - - - - I have two Martin Logan Dynamo 1600X Subwoofers connected to the Yamaha A-S2200 - the Klipsch RF-7iii Tower Speakers are connected to the Rotel RB-1582 Mkii External Amplifier. To my knowledge; everything can play clear and loud.

That explains the values exceeding 100 dB. I’d be a bit concerned about potential speaker distortion at those peaks. However, if you high-pass the Klipsch speakers, the peaks are likely in the bass range and would be managed by the powered subwoofers.

Thank you for clarifying!

 

[GuyIsDamGood]

What speaker (speaker-brand) wouldn't output distortion (within 113db) connected to the Rotel RB-1582 Mkii?

(Which of the two is probably causing the distortion: Yamaha A-S2200 (pre-out) or the Rotel RB-1582 Mkii?

 

[Audiofire]

What speaker (speaker-brand) wouldn't output distortion (within 113db) connected to the Rotel RB-1582 Mkii?

(Which of the two is probably causing the distortion: Yamaha A-S2200 (pre-out) or the Rotel RB-1582 Mkii?

I'd say speakers make the (audible) distortion there, amplifiers have much less distortion.

 

[Old_School_Brad]

What speaker (speaker-brand) wouldn't output distortion (within 113db) connected to the Rotel RB-1582 Mkii?

(Which of the two is probably causing the distortion: Yamaha A-S2200 (pre-out) or the Rotel RB-1582 Mkii?

Considering that the power amplifier in this case is relatively powerful, I’d say any audible distortion is more likely to result from the Klipsch reaching its limits rather than the amplifier. But I digress; this has veered off topic.

 

[GuyIsDamGood]

(not meaning to continue being off the main topic) - Which Speaker is the best for high-volumes; without distortion?

 

[Audiofire]

(not meaning to continue being off the main topic) - Which Speaker is the best for high-volumes; without distortion?

There are countless speakers that fit with your question. To also be on topic, we have to be more general here to answer. Specifications say how many dB per W of power you get for a speaker and a lower impedance needs more power (distortion occurs when the amplifier has reached its limit).