Initial impression of AIYIMA A07 Premium

[Dilis]

Hi,
which is better comparing A80 / A80 gen2 ?

What about PSU? I've read many infos : not to much power ( 32v / 5 A recommended for this A07) or max power for opening full potential.

 

[amano]

The full potential doesn't really matter unless you have the physical environment that accommodates it.

32V 5A is good enough unless you need some real power.

 

[PMB]

Just ordered a second Aiyima A07 Premium and opa1612 op amps to replace the muddy ne5532 op amps. Plan is to Bi Amping the speakers and use the free 3.5mm Audio Out for Active Subwoofer.
Has anyone done the Bi Amping on Aiyima A07 Premium?

 

[PMB]

Hi,
which is better comparing A80 / A80 gen2 ?

What about PSU? I've read many infos : not to much power ( 32v / 5 A recommended for this A07) or max power for opening full potential.

Power supply it is the most important. Aiyima A07 Premium even with 48V 5A the treble falls apart at the very edge. 48V 10A fixes it and the amp won't starve of power that causes the distortion. Anything less you are compromising.

Depending what you want from the amp and what connectivity you need often decides. If 2.1 Single Ended is all you need and everything else is meaningless, the fancy screens, XLR outputs, Bluetooth, using it as a mono block and few other things. The Aiyima A07 Premium has higher rated capacitors and components for better sound but you only get bare bones. Nothing else. It has better sound compared to A80, A20, A70, A07 Max and A07 that A07 Premium replaces. But you will need the 48V 10A power to get the best out of it.

 

[RandomEar]

Just ordered a second Aiyima A07 Premium and opa1612 op amps to replace the muddy ne5532 op amps. Plan is to Bi Amping the speakers and use the free 3.5mm Audio Out for Active Subwoofer.
Has anyone done the Bi Amping on Aiyima A07 Premium?

The fact that there is no audible difference between those op amps has already been explained to you. Apart from that, there is very little advantage in passive bi-amping unless you are power limited and the amp is already clipping right now. Passive bi-amping does not change the sound of a speaker.

All that stuff about "the treble falling apart" when using a different power supply in your next post is, of course, absolute nonsense. The PSU provides clean DC power to the amp - unless you run out of power, changing the PSU does not improve the sound. In addition, the tweeter requires the least amount of power in any speaker. So the first thing to distort if power is lacking will be the bass driver.

You should really read more about bias, how human perception works, how unreliable it is and how to properly blind test audio devices. Because right now, you are wasting your time and money (which you are free to do - don't get me wrong) and adding misinformation to this forum (which is a disadvantage for all readers).

 

[amano]

The PSU provides clean DC power to the amp - unless you run out of power, changing the PSU does not improve the sound.

Converting AC to DC is never clean. The conversion noise cannot be erased, but PSU can still be clean enough for the ears.

If you store solar energy in batteries and get DC power directly from batteries, then you might get cleaner energy.

 

[RandomEar]

Converting AC to DC is never clean. The conversion noise cannot be erased, but PSU can still be clean enough for the ears.

If you store solar energy in batteries and get DC power directly from batteries, then you might get cleaner energy.

While that is correct, you do not listen to the DC input directly. There's additional caps inside the amp to filter it and the typical switching noise of modern PSUs is in the region of hundreds of kHz to low MHz. In class D amps, there are also even more filters on the speaker outputs. Apart from some hypothetical possibility of low level IMD, the noise itself is inaudible anyway. Nobody can hear 40 mV switching ripple at 500 kHz. From an engineering perspective, I get that it would look even better on a scope if it weren't there. But that's about it.

My opinion: Unless you can prove that there is an audible problem with noise on the amps speaker output and you can trace that back to input noise, worrying about PSU noise is wasted time and energy. Focus on the stuff that actually improves your sound: EQ, room treatment, adding a sub, better/different speakers.

 

[antcollinet]

Converting AC to DC is never clean. The conversion noise cannot be erased, but PSU can still be clean enough for the ears.

If you store solar energy in batteries and get DC power directly from batteries, then you might get cleaner energy.

Nothing is perfectly clean - including power from your batteries.


Point is though, it is easy to get audibly perfectly clean. IE any noise too small for the human ear to detect. Perfectly good enough.

 

[Dilis]

Converting AC to DC is never clean. The conversion noise cannot be erased, but PSU can still be clean enough for the ears.

If you store solar energy in batteries and get DC power directly from batteries, then you might get cleaner energy.

Power supply it is the most important. Aiyima A07 Premium even with 48V 5A the treble falls apart at the very edge. 48V 10A fixes it and the amp won't starve of power that causes the distortion. Anything less you are compromising.

Depending what you want from the amp and what connectivity you need often decides. If 2.1 Single Ended is all you need and everything else is meaningless, the fancy screens, XLR outputs, Bluetooth, using it as a mono block and few other things. The Aiyima A07 Premium has higher rated capacitors and components for better sound but you only get bare bones. Nothing else. It has better sound compared to A80, A20, A70, A07 Max and A07 that A07 Premium replaces. But you will need the 48V 10A power to get the best out of it.

Hi, perhaps not the right place

I've bought and now retrurn this 48/10v PSU because it whistles enough to notice it in a calm room at 5m.
Don't notice better perf, moreover it seems to be arch in treble.
Short cables

 

[Sir Sanders Zingmore]

You've got to be kidding me.

My legitimate post about being able to measure everything from amps and speakers was deleted for "trolling", but the troll is still here?

It was probably deleted because you quoted a troll post rather than because it was trolling itself.
I had a couple of posts removed for the same reason. Perfectly reasonable.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

You've got to be kidding me.

My legitimate post about being able to measure everything from amps and speakers was deleted for "trolling", but the troll is still here?

As above mentioned, if your post containted a quote of the offending/trolling post, your post is deleted as well.

 

[Chromatischism]

As above mentioned, if your post containted a quote of the offending/trolling post, your post is deleted as well.

I don't think it did...anyway, on with the show.