Look, it's pretty simple; it changes the compliance of the driver. I built/repaired a lot of speakers/cabinets/sets over the years. The only place a surround change really works is on the older pleated silks, and then it's because you use a different fabric. I have 2 pairs of red dots that are close to 80 years old. Some of the old pro speaker surrounds you can get away with different accordion material, BUT it is always best to stick with what they use. I prefer silks if I take silks off.
I have replaced some weird ones on Jensen's before, and no one in the BAY Area had any idea what the material was. (25+ years ago) I still think someone replaced the originals, and I got stuck with a re-cone/surround job. These drivers were 1600.00 each, back then. Jensen Imperials D300 (I think) Expensive friggin drivers.
If you really want to mess up a very expensive speaker, try putting BR on the older JBL, Tannoy, Altec, or Jensen. It literally ruins how the speaker sounds.
If I hadn't had to change a few through the years BACK for people that tried to "UPGRADE", I wouldn't have said a thing. BTW, I don't know how old you are, but 30+ years is a long time for the cabinet and veneers. A few of the Infinities are made with some pretty cheap cabinet material. I've @Soundcoated, a few Infinities, and VMPS speaker cabinets behind interior flaking. Especially if they are heavy breathers with PRs and close to high-humidity areas like the Bay Area Delta.
Be thankful that those are extremely easy to do. 2 hours tops if you take a break or two. 3-4 hours if you start drinkin' or smokin' in the middle of the refit. LOL
Use a Sharp one sided razor and dress the blade if you put any nicks in the blade. It scrapes the crap out of polys or graphite cones. Just dress the razor with a very fine hone stone, a couple of swipes will do it. Just until you can't feel the burr on at least one side of the blade. 70-90% isopropyl (90s hotter).
One more thing, make sure the surround tack isn't 1000 years old too, ay! A good fresh batch "is runny" and have a cleaning rag ready, don't squeeze on the alcohol, it will evaporate. Don't wait to clean the cone after, get er done!PE has extra tubes of fresh tack if you need it. BR uses a special tack too; it is a lot heavier, almost like silicone paint or @Flex-Seal.
Best of luck.