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In a nutshell...

On a general note,

In a nutshell…

isn’t helpful as a thread topic. I would not call it clickbait, but it’s not far away from that.
 
But speakers are noiseless so have dynamic range higher than any piece of electronics. This is why you hear tweeter hiss when you put your ear to it.

Just this week we have someone being surprised that they are hearing hiss from their Genelecs. That hiss came from the dac+amplifier and was in no way masked by the speaker.

Sure, and I dislike hiss a lot more than harmonic distortion.



In addition, the non-linearities are different. I can easily hear tube amp distortion over speaker's own. Speakers way below their limit are quite linear. I have measured SINAD of 80 dB from what I recall which is the limit of what I can measure for speakers. A tube amp can easily create audible distortion. So can solid state ones for that matter. From one of the first published ABX tests: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ts-did-show-amplifiers-to-sound-different.23/

Yeah but my point was that there are tons of people that like the harmonic distortions.
Just look at all the other websites.

And not all tube amps have nasty levels of warm harmonic structure.
Some have SINAD values >80dB and with mostly second and sometimes the third harmonic.



So it is clear, I created ASR to differentiate us from other "objective" sites that make the claims that @MarkS did. We can't over exaggerate facts and expect people to believe us. Guesses and broad assumptions have no place here.

100%
Back to the original post:
To misquote the Grinch: “I’ve puzzled and puzzled till my puzzler was sore. Have I missed something I haven't thought of before?”

If I have this correct…

To get the best sound in my living room….I need a sonically-invisible amp, a (solidly built) selector switch as a pre-amp, a modern DAC from the blue segment of the ratings chart (to use with my old cd player as a transport -- or a lossless-playing streamer), and most importantly, speakers having good anechoic on-axis measurements [a flat frequency response curve (+/- 1.5 dB)], that produce the sound signature that I prefer (neutral/warm/bright) (w/DSP?) taking the room itself into consideration as a major determining factor of the reproduced sound being played which is the highest-quality original recording available?

:)

The bolded and underlined part seems true enough.
And the rest is probably good advice, but people have TTs and tube amps and can also have great sound.
 
And not all tube amps have nasty levels of warm harmonic structure.
Some have SINAD values >80dB and with mostly second and sometimes the third harmonic.
Isn't it said that SET tube amps vs class AB based tube amps result in the design creating even harmonics and not so much of the nasty uneven ones? But if I remember correctly, @amirm has tested SETs and it has been shown that third harmonics have been quite noticeable?
I don't know if it's possible to generalize about that?
I'll leave aside the aspect of how pitifully little power and how ridiculously expensive SETs can be.



The bolded and underlined part seems true enough.
And the rest is probably good advice, but people have TTs and tube amps and can also have great sound.
For a tube amp, THD +N: 77.5 dB/0.014% (measured at 1 watt) can be considered good. I think it has a power of 20 or maybe 30 watts. I don't remember. It has flat FR.

In any case, with talented designers like Horias2000 and the forum's tube expert SIY collaborating, it can be such a good result.
Much cheaper than a commercial tube amp with the same performance. That said, good output transformers (even if it's a DIY) cost a pretty penny.

A combination of class D amps to power up bass boxes and such a tube amp that takes care of everything above 300Hz-500Hz with good speakers (whatever that means) that has a fairly high sensitivity and has a tube amp easy load, can be considered good hifi in my eyes.:)
8bb82a15-ce40-4a8e-8672-76128f12eda2.jpg365745-2b9302338c14f6783f86f5000136b65b.jpg20221119_151848.jpgtube_4ohm_speaker_cottect_GND_right (1).png

 
By the way, a vintage HK330C has (bench tested) the same THD +N and about as much power as the Horias2000 DIY tube amp mentioned above in my post. The test here:

In an apartment complex where having good relations with the neighbors trumps amp power/playing at high volume so, for me, it works with 83-84 dB sensitive speakers and a low powered HK330C receiver. :)
Would better SINAD on the 330C give better sound? Doubtful. It would still be drowned in the distortion of the speakers.

My measurement. WiiM Mini RoomFit sweep, tone control set to 0. I have split the signal from my DAC to the receiver and my Yamaha subwoofer. I am testing different settings. It is a challenge to get a good integration of sub-speakers. Those who are thinking about a combo small bookshelf speakers + sub should be aware of that.
The sweep with Wharfedale Diamond 220 speakers, bass tone control on O, no subwoofer:
Screenshot_2026-02-19_103347.jpgScreenshot_2026-02-19_103353.jpg
I will continue to improve the sub-speaker integration. That plus testing a few more different speaker placements and getting the damping of first reflexes right plus I'm thinking about some aesthetically pleasing:

Those measures are what I think, at least for me, are what will have the most impact on getting a good sound in my living room.:)
Screenshot_2026-02-19_103400.jpgScreenshot_2026-02-19_103405.jpgScreenshot_2026-02-19_103412.jpgScreenshot_2026-02-19_103418.jpgScreenshot_2026-02-19_103433.jpgScreenshot_2026-02-19_103441.jpg
Not High End, maybe entry level Hifi (on the border of that). But the receiver lights up nicely in the evening anyway.:)
 
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I would not call it clickbait, but it’s not far away from that.
It was meant in a jovial tone, not to be provocative. Boiling a vast number of contentious variables into one (albeit disjointed) sentence as a solution would be a fool's errand, I'd think :).
 
Personally I’d start with the speakers
Which opens another jar of pickles. Practically, how does one do that? I had plans on going to AXPONA this year, then thought that Tampa is warmer and closer (and this weekend!) but folks have said it's almost pointless to audition speakers in a crowded, noisy hotel room. My "Kunte Kinte I have found you" moment came unexpectedly when listening to one of Erin's videos comparing audio clips of three speakers, and I could finally say "I like that one" then try to figure out why.
 
Which opens another jar of pickles. Practically, how does one do that? I had plans on going to AXPONA this year, then thought that Tampa is warmer and closer (and this weekend!) but folks have said it's almost pointless to audition speakers in a crowded, noisy hotel room. My "Kunte Kinte I have found you" moment came unexpectedly when listening to one of Erin's videos comparing audio clips of three speakers, and I could finally say "I like that one" then try to figure out why.
Speakers are, IMO, the most important (and tricky/personal) selection you make. It's a matter of measurements and also dependent on the type of music you listen to, the volume, your bass preference and, of course, how they perform in the room. The ideal is to listen to options in a listening room that is close to the size room you're placing them in, with as close as possible to the basic room construction (carpet/no carpet, reflective surfaces such as windows, etc.). You can narrow your list down by looking at reviews and specs, or course, then narrowing further by applying your budget. But the old model of going to a nice audio shop and listening over the course of an hour or two to numerous options via a speaker selector is certainly not available to all these days. It is. however, still the best way to do it. Buying big things and shipping them back and forth because they disappoint is...frustrating at the very least.

As to videos, IMO it's nearly impossible to listen to online videos with headphones and try to make a true assessment.

Only other general advice I can offer is, don't overlook vintage/used speakers in your area. If they haven't been mistreated, older speakers can sound very very fine. Case in point, my two sets of ADS speakers, which are my favorite component. I have other speakers that I like nearly as well, but...they far exceed what I paid for them. Caps age, but subtly, and crossovers are pretty easy to refurbish if the cabinet and drivers are excellent.
 
Don't know, but if no comprehensive audio store in your area, I would have to believe there would be one or two in Tampa...maybe you could hit the Expo and also a few stores?
 
It was meant in a jovial tone, not to be provocative. Boiling a vast number of contentious variables into one (albeit disjointed) sentence as a solution would be a fool's errand, I'd think :).


Alright, …

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Which opens another jar of pickles. Practically, how does one do that?

I’d start with cost, WAF, and thins like Erin’s work of Spinorama, and arrive at som reduced list.
At some point it goes from an impossible task to just a difficult one.


… I had plans on going to AXPONA this year, then thought that Tampa is warmer and closer (and this weekend!) but folks have said it's almost pointless to audition speakers in a crowded, noisy hotel room. My "Kunte Kinte I have found you" moment came unexpectedly when listening to one of Erin's videos comparing audio clips of three speakers, and I could finally say "I like that one" then try to figure out why.

I’d rather hear them in a noisy room than not at all.


Speakers are, IMO, the most important (and tricky/personal) selection you make. It's a matter of measurements and also dependent on the type of music you listen to, the volume, your bass preference and, of course, how they perform in the room. …

If they sound unnatural with human voice or piano then that is usually enough.

I’m not sure the type of music matters all that much, but I can see how a system that truely plays down to 20Hz would work differently for pipe organs, throat singers, and some hip-hop.
At least spinorama has rating with and without a subwoofer.
 
My "Kunte Kinte I have found you" moment came unexpectedly when listening to one of Erin's videos comparing audio clips of three speakers, and I could finally say "I like that one" then try to figure out why.
This doesn't work, unfortunately, just too mediated, too many variables, so what you're hearing may have originated with a particular speaker, but by the time you're hearing it through your headphones or speakers, through youtube's compression, through the mic used to record it in the specific room in which it was recorded, the breadcrumb trail has been gobbled up by crows.
 
This doesn't work, unfortunately, just too mediated, too many variables
Agreed, it was more of "this sounds better to me than those," which helped narrow things down to "apparently, I like a wide dispersion" and not much more. At least, it's a start.
 
Agreed, it was more of "this sounds better to me than those," which helped narrow things down to "apparently, I like a wide dispersion" and not much more. At least, it's a start.

Curious, what speakers and subs do you use now?
 
To misquote the Grinch: “I’ve puzzled and puzzled till my puzzler was sore. Have I missed something I haven't thought of before?”

If I have this correct…

To get the best sound in my living room….I need a sonically-invisible amp, a (solidly built) selector switch as a pre-amp, a modern DAC from the blue segment of the ratings chart (to use with my old cd player as a transport -- or a lossless-playing streamer), and most importantly, speakers having good anechoic on-axis measurements [a flat frequency response curve (+/- 1.5 dB)], that produce the sound signature that I prefer (neutral/warm/bright) (w/DSP?) taking the room itself into consideration as a major determining factor of the reproduced sound being played which is the highest-quality original recording available?

:)
Basically yes, but I would add a couple tweaks to this statement:

  • The difference between good and great electronics is usually not noticeable in practice... that said it's not very expensive to get technically great electronics (amps, dacs, preamps, etc) these days. So you don't *need* stuff from the blue section to have good sound, but it doesn't hurt as long as it's in your budget.
  • When it comes to speakers, the on-axis performance is most important, but off-axis needs to be smooth as well, otherwise the net result is an uneven frequency response regardless of what's happening on-axis.

Which opens another jar of pickles. Practically, how does one do that?

Some good advice on this already.

Basically I'd say:

  • If budget and/or WAF are determinants of your choice, start there and narrow your list down using that.
  • Figure out how loud you want to listen and how far away from the speakers. This is a definitive criterion, so try to be sure.
  • While good speakers that have no third party measurements exist, plenty of good speakers in every price range WITH 3rd party measurements exist, so narrow your list further using that criteria. No need to fly blind.
  • Listen to some speakers in your home if you can, either via dealer demo, return policy or otherwise.
  • Consider stretching your budget by going 2nd hand.
  • If you can't listen in-home, shows can help narrow things down but keep in mind it's their room, not yours.
Agree that YT listening might be worse than nothing, as @RexrothPigeon points out... it's like trying to taste test pizza by licking a video of pizza.
 
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Which opens another jar of pickles. Practically, how does one do that? I had plans on going to AXPONA this year, then thought that Tampa is warmer and closer (and this weekend!) but folks have said it's almost pointless to audition speakers in a crowded, noisy hotel room.
The things you want to do at shows is touch and feel the product and assess whether you like those aspects. Talk to people who man the room to see if they are the type you would do business with. Look at the range of the products and price points and see where you want to land.

Shows can also be used to hear how loud a speaker gets as this is hard to assess in measurements (ask them to play dynamic music and turn it up to the level you like). Size of the image speakers portray can also be assessed in person in such situations -- again hard to extract from measurements.

Your most reliable metric needs to be measurements and understanding of them. Use that to narrow your choices and then go and spend time at shows with those products. With all my experience, and hundreds of speakers at shows I have heard, I cannot make any purchase decisions with just a show visit.

I have done a video on how to interpret speaker measurements:

 
I have a pair of K-horns now (no sub), paired with an Acoustic Research amp/pre combo...all of which I bought "blind".
The K-horns are not all bad (efficiency definitely has its place) but have a pretty uneven frequency response (this iteration still has some really bad peaks and resonances https://www.stereophile.com/content/klipsch-klipschorn-ak6-loudspeaker-measurements) - You could improve this with EQ somewhat, but the directivity errors and resonances are still going to be there, so the ceiling is not super high compared to where you are now.

Whether or not your next set are horns, If you come up with a list of must-haves & budget, the boffins around here will probably know of a few speakers you should try to listen to.
 
To misquote the Grinch: “I’ve puzzled and puzzled till my puzzler was sore. Have I missed something I haven't thought of before?”

If I have this correct…

To get the best sound in my living room….I need a sonically-invisible amp, a (solidly built) selector switch as a pre-amp, a modern DAC from the blue segment of the ratings chart (to use with my old cd player as a transport -- or a lossless-playing streamer),
Yes I have improved my system this way with the help of this site. Went Hypex for the amp for lots of clean power. Went Topping Pre90 to replace my Rogue tube pre, a piece I still love but the Pre90 performs much better. A cheap SMSL DAC does the job, which is mainly fed from my old yet great Sony ES changer.
and most importantly, speakers having good anechoic on-axis measurements [a flat frequency response curve (+/- 1.5 dB)], that produce the sound signature that I prefer (neutral/warm/bright) (w/DSP?) taking the room itself into consideration as a major determining factor of the reproduced sound being played which is the highest-quality original recording available?

:)
Speakers are where I split from ASR as well measuring speakers are prohibitively expensive. I have no choice but to stick with my little Maggies which I have loved for over 20 years. I also have a pair of Vandersteen 2ce Sigs that I never use. But my feeling is that speaker measurements work better for conventional dynamic drivers. If this is what you want, then by all means follow the ASR method for speaker selection. But they say the preference score was not meant for dipole speakers.

In short, my cheat code for speakers is and always has been Maggies with sub. Sounds glorious to me, and my experience with them do not align with the measurements on this site. They do need 500 watts though, which is what I have, and even then they just barely get loud enough for me.
 
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