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I'm building a 'Post-Vintage' to Modern, Budget, Medium Level Hi-Fi System

OldNewbie

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Ok, the title was just Mumbo-Jumbo sorry. I really need Advice on old vs new Amplifiers

I want to build a system around a Media Streamer (probably the Wiim Ultra but just maybe the Eversolo Play w/ CD player).

My main question, since I already have 3 decent pairs of speakers is: After the Streamer purchase the first thing I will need is to decide on what amplifier to use or buy?
I currently own/have:
  1. 1 NAD 2400 THX amplifier from the late 80's? 90s? 100 watts per channel. This amp punches hard with current, headroom, and damping factor. I love the clean tones! I also like that you can connect 2 sets of speakers (helps to A/B test speakers) AND it has gain level controls for Left and Right Channels
  2. 2 ADCOM GPF 535 amps. Also, from the 90's, 2000s. Great 60 watt/channel high current amps. Clean Articulation and punch from these also. I wish I could bridge them and have 2 mono amps ;O). But they also support 2 pairs of speakers.
  3. 2 Vintage Marantz Integrated Amplifiers (model 1060 and 1122DC). I can use these as preamps only, or amps only, or as actual preamp/amps as intended. I spent a lot of time in college listening to this vintage of old Marantz gear and I STILL enjoy listening to the punch and clarify these amps produce.
QUESTIONs:
  1. Should I seriously consider get a new amplifier before anything else? (like new speakers, a better DAC, etc).
  2. How much better is amplifier technology these days than the amps of the 90s, 2000s, etc. Has it improved enough to warrant an upgrade?
I'll probably ask the same question about speakers. Should I upgrade NOW from the below list? I currently have these speakers:
  1. A Pair of 80's, 90's ADS L520s Love, love these!
  2. A Pair of 2000, 2010? Dynaudio Audience 52. The only speakers back in 2010 that I considered worth of replacing my ADS L520s (In my price range of course).
  3. A Pair of Klipsch kg 3.2. Bought used on impulse. I like the thump and actually cranked up with my NAD Amp can really Rock a Party to the ground.
Should a speaker upgrade be near the top first thing I do? Any, help, advise, discussion would be welcome! Thanks@!
 
This is my personal advice which is likely not mainstream: We've recently become totally enamored of ATMOS surround as we both feel it gives much more feeling of being present at a live performance. As a result my advice is to consider optimizing for that. You've already got a bunch of speakers to start playing with so the next things are source and ATMOS. The Wiim Ultra doesn't support ATMOS, you need an HDMI connection or streaming built into the AVR. We've got a Integra 3.4 which with the latest firmware will support ATMOS streaming from Tidal and Dirac Live room correction. However the Tidal UI is pretty poor so I got an NVidia Shield to make it all a bit less user snide, but the Integra's built in Tidal UI is usable, just not very nice, so you don't really need a streamer with it. In any event I generally use my phone or Android tablet to build ATMOS playlists and use those when listening.

The Integra is a very nice modern amp IMHO that tests well and has lots of features. I'd suggest setting up that with your existing speakers and give ATMOS a try to see what you think. If you like it, as we do, speakers are naturally the next step and ASR reviews IMHO are the place to start your selections. I'm a big fan of amplified speakers since they come corrected and the Integra has preamp outs to feed them. We only use 2 of the amplifier channels, all the other speakers are fed directly from the preamp outs.
 
1. No

2. It may measure better. Whether you can perceive a difference over what you have is unknown.

Consider applying room correction to your listening space first. Then, consider whether to audition loudspeakers to compare to what you own.
 
The Eversolo has an amp section so it can drive your Dynaudios directly. Put them on a solid metal stand such as those made by Target.

If you decide to go with the WiiM, use the NAD as it has gain controls you can set to safely limit max volume to your speakers.
 
Should a speaker upgrade be near the top first thing I do? Any, help, advise, discussion would be welcome! Thanks@!
That's up to you. Different speakers sound different (better or worse). And they'll sound somewhat different in different rooms.

I love the clean tones!...

Clean Articulation and punch from these also...

I STILL enjoy listening to the punch and clarify these amps produce...
Don't fool yourself. ;) Ignoring tone controls or EQ, amplifier sound is determined by noise, distortion and frequency response (see Audiophoolery).

Frequency response is usually flat across the audio frequency range and distortion is usually below audibility unless you over-drive the amp into clipping/distortion. Sometimes there is audible noise (hum, hiss, or whine in the background) and noise can be tricky because there's more than one way to measure it, and audibility depends on other factors like how close you are to the speaker, speaker sensitivity, and other noise in the room.

If you go "more vintage" back to the tube days you are more likely to find frequency response variations but there were (and are) some good tube amps.

Great 60 watt/channel high current amps.
If it's putting-out the wattage it HAS to be putting-out the current. Power = Voltage / Resistance. and Ohm's Law says: Current = Voltage / Resistance.

Speaker impedance (Ohms like resistance) varies over the frequency range so if you have a speaker that drops below its 4 or 8-Ohm nominal impedance you can need a bit of "extra current", and that means either you'll get clipping and you won't get the expected power, or you'll get the extra power needed at that impedance.
 
I bought a Marantz PM-80 integrated amp and Advent Heritage speakers in the 1990s, paired with a Denon DP-1200 turntable from the 1980s. Recently, I had them refurbished, and they’re good for another 20 years. Parts are reasonably available, and local techs can handle repairs, which was a big factor for me. I also snagged a $20 second-hand CD player that gets the job done. :)I’m a digital convert too, choosing components based on the law of diminishing returns and the deflationary nature of electronics. That’s why I went with a WiiM Ultra streamer—great value for the price. For me, it’s about maximizing return on listening (a twist on ROI). I’d rather save money than chase emotionally drivenand unsubstatiated purchases like vinyl. I love blending old and new gear—keep it simple, don’t overthink it. The fun of music is what matters. ASR is a fantastic resource for cutting through the noise (scuse the pun) and separating fact from fiction. Keep reading, reflect, and don’t worry if your original instincts hold true. If you’ve got questions, the answers often come with time and more research.
 
How much better is amplifier technology these days than the amps of the 90s, 2000s, etc. Has it improved enough to warrant an upgrade?
There is not a simple yes/no answer to this.

In the 1970s, 1980s, 1990s, 2000s there were excellent amplifiers available which measured well and were reliable. There were also amplifiers which were poor, sometimes from the same manufacturer as the good amplifiers. Original price is not a guarantee for success!

Newer amplifiers generally have lower input sensitivity and less gain which in an AB test without level matching may make them sound quiet and unengaging compared to older amplifiers. However, modern sources have higher voltage outputs which may make older amplifiers distort on peaks or have almost no volume control travel.

If space is an issue, there are some excellent small modern amplifiers. Older ones are generally large.

Old may also mean it needs servicing. Switches, relays and potentiometers can become noisy and (for relays) increase noise and distortion. Some capacitors become aged and may need replacing. A new device may come with a guarantee.
 
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