IK Multimedia iLoud MTM Review (active monitor)

[sarumbear]

Damn Brits with their previously stupid 240V made whole EU change to 230V as "fair compromise" between 240V and 220V, causing so many problems to us collectors of vintage hifi which often wears now quicker, now after Brexit the EU should return to 220V

There was never a change. In 2003 EU recalled voltage levels. The new “harmonised voltage limits” in Europe (the former 220V countries) are now: 230V -10% +6% (i.e. 207.0 V-243.8 V)

In the UK (former 240V nominal) they are: 230V -6% +10% (i.e. 216.2 V – 253.0 V)

This effectively means there is no real change of supply voltage, only a change in the “label”. Electricity supply companies haven’t actually changed the voltage.

To cope with both sets of limits all modern equipment will therefore be able to accept 230V +/-10% i.e. 207-253V.

 

[thewas]

The allowed tolerance band changed and older, nominal 220V designed equipment has more often problems with it since then.

Until 1987, the mains voltage in large parts of Europe, including Germany, Austria and Switzerland, was 220 (± 22) V, while it was 240 (± 24) V in the United Kingdom . The voltage of 230 (± 23) V, which has been valid in Europe since then, was specified as the standard voltage in the international standard IEC 60038 : 1983.

From 1987 onwards there was a changeover in several stages

. Since 2009, the mains voltage has been allowed to be 230 (± 23) V, which means that 207 volts to 253 volts are permitted.

Electrical consumers specified for 220 volts could also be included when taking into account the tolerances valid from 1987 to 2009

be operated without seriously violating the tolerance conditions: At

the maximum voltage was 242 V.

the maximum voltage was 243.8 volts. This no longer applies since 2009, as the maximum voltage is now 253 V.

With the minimum voltage, the tolerance band was not and is not violated: While 198 volts were previously permissible, it is now at least 207 volts.

Increasing the voltage by around 5% leads to an increase in performance in many devices. For devices whose function is based on the ohmic resistance , e.g. B. fan heater or kettle , the consumption increases quadratically in relation to the voltage increase, i.e. by about 10% of the power. In many cases, the amount of energy to be paid for remains roughly the same, since a kettle, for example, heats up the given amount of water faster and switches off earlier due to its higher output.

In the case of incandescent lamps , this increase is slightly lower due to the usual PTC thermistor characteristics of the filaments. Increased voltages cause higher currents in the lines. In the case of incandescent lamps, however, a higher filament temperature leads to a shortening of the (statistically probable) service life.

Source: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Netzspannung

 

[Sengin]

These don't have auto-standy/auto shutdown right? I couldn't find anything in the manual about it. I am looking for a thinner profile studio monitor with that feature, and was hoping I wouldn't have to shell out $1400 for a pair of the genelec 8030Cs...

If auto standby is so important, perhaps I should look at passive speakers? The only problem is that it's harder to find an amp that I can use 50/50 with headphones and then flip a switch to get speaker line out.

 

[earlevel]

These don't have auto-standy/auto shutdown right? I couldn't find anything in the manual about it. I am looking for a thinner profile studio monitor with that feature, and was hoping I wouldn't have to shell out $1400 for a pair of the genelec 8030Cs...

If auto standby is so important, perhaps I should look at passive speakers? The only problem is that it's harder to find an amp that I can use 50/50 with headphones and then flip a switch to get speaker line out.

There is no auto-shutdown. But I can't imagine they burn much juice when not playing sound. They don't get warm enough to indicate much power is being lost. I assume it uses switching power supplies.

If I were to re-buy monitors for this application, the only thing different would be I'd be done in 20 seconds, because I'd click the Apple Pay button and wait for them to show up. I route audio to my main studio monitors rarely these days, the MTMs are more convenient and give and accurate rendering. Again, size, profile, and mounting was an important issue for this use, I'm pleased that I didn't have to sacrifice audio quality. (I'm sure there are better for twice the price that would be much less convenient for the space.)

 

[Chromatischism]

These don't have auto-standy/auto shutdown right? I couldn't find anything in the manual about it. I am looking for a thinner profile studio monitor with that feature, and was hoping I wouldn't have to shell out $1400 for a pair of the genelec 8030Cs...

If auto standby is so important, perhaps I should look at passive speakers? The only problem is that it's harder to find an amp that I can use 50/50 with headphones and then flip a switch to get speaker line out.

I would not set that as a requirement. Not only does it limit your choices, but I've read too many reports of auto standby causing problems.

Just plug both of the speakers into a Y-cord and into this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQELHBS/

 

[Sengin]

but I've read too many reports of auto standby causing problems.

I have heard the same. But just for the full information - a lot of speakers that do have auto standby also have the ability to turn the function off, making it a non issue in most cases.

 

[Berwhale]

@Sengin I use an 6 gang IEC C14 power strip connected to an IR controlled plug like this...

Both my MTMs and my Sub8 are plugged in the power strip. The plug is trained to respond to the 'OK/Enter' button on my Topping remote which does nothing on my EX5 (unless it happens to be in a menu).

 

[carewser]

These don't have auto-standy/auto shutdown right? I couldn't find anything in the manual about it. I am looking for a thinner profile studio monitor with that feature, and was hoping I wouldn't have to shell out $1400 for a pair of the genelec 8030Cs...

If auto standby is so important, perhaps I should look at passive speakers? The only problem is that it's harder to find an amp that I can use 50/50 with headphones and then flip a switch to get speaker line out.

These guys make some studio monitors that have pretty flat frequency response and they're a lot cheaper than Genelecs

 

[Walter]

These guys make some studio monitors that have pretty flat frequency response and they're a lot cheaper than Genelecs

But none of the current models feature auto-standy or auto shutdown.

 

[Berwhale]

...and the LP-6 is 4 3/4" wider than the MTMs.

 

[Zensō]

These don't have auto-standy/auto shutdown right? I couldn't find anything in the manual about it. I am looking for a thinner profile studio monitor with that feature, and was hoping I wouldn't have to shell out $1400 for a pair of the genelec 8030Cs...

If auto standby is so important, perhaps I should look at passive speakers? The only problem is that it's harder to find an amp that I can use 50/50 with headphones and then flip a switch to get speaker line out.

Just curious why you wouldn't mount a power strip within reach under your desk and plug the monitors into the strip? I have two sets of monitors being fed from an RME and each is on their own power strip. The remote on the desk switches between the headphone out and the line out on the RME, the power buttons on the strips switch the monitor pairs on and off.

 

[Sengin]

But none of the current models feature auto-standy or auto shutdown.

Yep - the V1s did but the V2s do not. The V1s had some issues with it where Kali abandoned it for V2.

 

[Sengin]

Just curious why you wouldn't mount a power strip within reach under your desk and plug the monitors into the strip?

I do! I have a powerstrip mounted underneath that powers my avr (right now), dac, amp, phone charger, and PC. It's a sit/stand desk so everything plugged in there causes no issues when changing the height. I am cautious about plugging in another strip to it for just the monitors though.

The problem is that I switch headphones and speakers often, and currently have a SMSL SP200. And those switches feel *so good* to use I don't want to deal with a flimsy remote. I'm looking for a single physical switch that feels satisfying to use that will handle it all for me - switch from headphones <-> speakers and some form of "turn on/off the speakers."

Please note I'm not saying the remote is a bad idea! It's actually a fantastic idea (and I didn't know about it 2 weeks ago when I started looking around) - it's just not what I'm looking for right now. But if I can't find what I'm looking for (current plan is a speaker desk mount [which lets me use larger monitors] and the behringer 2031a), I'll definitely go back to this option.

How did you get the RME remote to also control the power strip? Is there some kind of 'learning' functionality to listen for what IR signals?

 

[Berwhale]

I don't want to deal with a flimsy remote

That's why I have the Topping RC21 remote which is machined from a lump of aluminium

TOPPING RC21 Remote Control

The Topping RC21 is a remote control that is compatible with Topping DX7s, D70, DX3 Pro, and the D50s. It uses a CR2032 battery and lets you control the DAC or amps from the comfort of your seat. Specs: Compatible with Topping DX7s, D70, DX3 Pro, D50s Uses CR2032 battery

apos.audio

 

[Zensō]

I do! I have a powerstrip mounted underneath that powers my avr (right now), dac, amp, phone charger, and PC. It's a sit/stand desk so everything plugged in there causes no issues when changing the height. I am cautious about plugging in another strip to it for just the monitors though.

The problem is that I switch headphones and speakers often, and currently have a SMSL SP200. And those switches feel *so good* to use I don't want to deal with a flimsy remote. I'm looking for a single physical switch that feels satisfying to use that will handle it all for me - switch from headphones <-> speakers and some form of "turn on/off the speakers."

Please note I'm not saying the remote is a bad idea! It's actually a fantastic idea (and I didn't know about it 2 weeks ago when I started looking around) - it's just not what I'm looking for right now. But if I can't find what I'm looking for (current plan is a speaker desk mount [which lets me use larger monitors] and the behringer 2031a), I'll definitely go back to this option.

How did you get the RME remote to also control the power strip? Is there some kind of 'learning' functionality to listen for what IR signals?

I think you may have misunderstood my description. The remote only controls the RME, which switches between the headphone out and the line out (among other things). Both the balanced and unbalanced line outputs are live, so I use the power strips to swap between the monitors. Each pair of monitors has their own power strip, both of which are mounted within reach under the desk.

Good luck with figuring out your setup!

 

[carewser]

These don't have auto-standy/auto shutdown right? I couldn't find anything in the manual about it. I am looking for a thinner profile studio monitor with that feature, and was hoping I wouldn't have to shell out $1400 for a pair of the genelec 8030Cs...

If auto standby is so important, perhaps I should look at passive speakers? The only problem is that it's harder to find an amp that I can use 50/50 with headphones and then flip a switch to get speaker line out.

I can't imagine why anyone would want auto-standby/auto shutdown built into an active speaker system because i've never had a problem turning devices on and off. In fact I can't imagine anything easier. What's the worst that could happen by leaving a device on anyway? You waste a tiny amount of electricity. My Kanto Tuk speakers have an auto-power up/auto-power down feature and not only do I not need it, I don't like it as they have turned on all on their own numerous times. In fact that feature was the reason I returned my first pair because a few times they turned on by themselves and nearly blew my ears off because unlike my Paradigm Millenia CT2 speakers that always turn on at the same low volume, the Kanto's turn on at the last volume you had them at and I like my music loud sometimes

 

[KantoLiving]

You can enable or disable auto power-on OR auto power-off on TUK. It's fully customizable to act however you want it to. We added this based on feedback we got from YU4 and YU6 which are not customizable.

 

[Sengin]

I can't imagine why anyone would want auto-standby/auto shutdown built into an active speaker system

For me it's just because I'd like to do everything with a single switch. I don't want to waste the electricity for leaving active speakers on 24/7.

 

[carewser]

You can enable or disable auto power-on OR auto power-off on TUK. It's fully customizable to act however you want it to. We added this based on feedback we got from YU4 and YU6 which are not customizable.

Yeah, I finally learned how to use the feature from reading the owner's manual, although I still think it's kind of a useless feature, Paradigm's auto levelling volume feature seems far more useful although I also really like the Tuk's sub button which can not only enable/disable a sub but change the bass frequencies that the Tuk's produce with it, that's pretty cool. Most importantly, the Tuk's sound great!

 

[carewser]

For me it's just because I'd like to do everything with a single switch. I don't want to waste the electricity for leaving active speakers on 24/7.

You think you've got problems? I basically live in a sound room (you know the kind that stereo shops have with a wall of speakers all lined up?) It takes me 10 minutes to turn everything on and adjust it all to get everything working in sync and even then some of my remotes work on the wrong speakers