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IEM Cable suggestions please? - I've lost confidence in stock IEM cables

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That's what the ignore feature is for. It's there for a reason. You chill, and ignore my posts. You do not have to read them.

You are correct. @Somafunk does not have to read your posts. Neither can he be forced to put you on ignore. This is a public forum, and people can read your posts, or not, as they please. They can also comment on your posts if they please, which is what Somafunk did. That's what public forums are all about. I suspect that you've been around the internet long enough to know this.

If you believe that the comment Somafunk made was out of line, then you can report his post. The mods will make a determination.

Sometimes people become irritated with each other in public. I would like to think that adults have enough composure to resist snide, nasty repartee. It's best for the two parties involved to stop that sort of behavior before it even has a chance to get worse.

After all, no one ever put out a fire by pouring gasoline on it. ;)
 
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That's what the ignore feature is for. It's there for a reason. You chill, and ignore my posts. You do not have to read them.

You’re spreading utter nonsense and brain farts regarding supposed cable differences on a forum that follows scientific rigour, you’d find a more responsive home on headfi
 
I was curious about this as well, I've just tried my Andromeda's OG with a cheap 3-5 USD copper cable from Aliexpress (I had to use a tool to make the connector round so you can imagine the quality hahah) vs the original which I believe is silver plated and should be of decent quality.

I used my Soncoz QXD1 --> Balanced Cable --> AAA 789 --> SE Gain 1

Not a better song than Hotel California Live on MTV 1994 to test.

My mindset was that cables don't make a difference, but it was so obvious:
  1. Very noticeable was the volume. it was lower on the cheap cable
  2. When trying to match the volume with the cheap cable everything bacame harsh and the shaker you can hear mostly on the right channel, just lost all its nuances and texture.
So yes, cables change the sound.. but I don't have a better cable than the andromedas came with to compare. My guess is that the impedance with the cheap copper cable changes, which explains the volume drop and sensitive IEMs like the Andromedas catch that very easily. I'm not sure up to which point the sound improves, my guess if volume is the same then it might not be any difference.

The moral of the story, I'll be more careful buying cheap cables next time.

I'll try to check some day what the OP did with the cheap IEMS I have (KZ).. it could be that the cable are holding them back a lot... I'm getting Ziigaat Odyssey OG soon which has the same cable I belive of some of my cheap IEMS. Will report back!
 
Dear, hello. So which cable give you most difference? What can you admit to try / use?
 
Cheap cables are perfectly fine as long as they are not fragile, microphonic or tangly. No expensive cable will make your IEMs or headphones sound better.
 
I ordered, and it arrives today, the Tripowin Zonie to replace the cable on my Zero2 as the original cable is starting to come apart at the plug. Ordered it in blue to match the IEMs - I'm sure it'll sound better because it matches the IEMs!! :cool:
 
My mindset was that cables don't make a difference, but it was so obvious:

There are two reasons that you might think this were the case. The first is the unpredictable characteristics of wire itself. Sometimes we aren't getting what we think we're getting, and the difference might not be so obvious from the outside:


But as far as our subjective impressions go, obvious might not have any meaning. We are unremitting slaves to a mind that can play powerful tricks on us:


These biases are more than just auditory. They are shortcuts that the mind uses to make quick and (hopefully) useful decisions in all aspects of daily sensory input. Here is a list of many of them:


As far as audio goes, the best method to restrict the power of bias is the double-blind test. It must be performed with strict attention to rigor and protocols, but it can be very illuminating. The basic purpose is to answer the question, "Did I really hear what I am sure I heard?".


Sorry to burden you with so much reading, but these articles really do explain a lot. ;)
 
So yes, cables change the sound.. but I don't have a better cable than the andromedas came with to compare. My guess is that the impedance with the cheap copper cable changes, which explains the volume drop and sensitive IEMs like the Andromedas catch that very easily. I'm not sure up to which point the sound improves, my guess if volume is the same then it might not be any difference.
The Andromeda is the quintessential exception of cables all being the same, but that is only because of loading issues that are due to poor engineering on Campfire's part (AFAIK they didn't implement a proper crossover) In 99.9% of other cases it shouldn't matter, but in every discussion on less rigorous forums and sites it will be brought up. Here it is with an iFi IEMmatch device, that uses a complex attenuator to trick the source into thinking it's a higher load:

1764189676901.png


As you can see (and this is IMPORTANT: THERE IS A MEASURABLE DIFFERENCE), you essentially pivot the whole FR counterclockwise, with a great change in overall tonality due to the very low Q.

Aside from this case, the only other instance that I've seen of cables being a factor, outside power amps powering stupidly inefficient speakers (where you need thicker copper), is phono coupling with some Audio Technica Cartridges, where the added conductance from the cable and the phono preamp can induce several dB on the Higher frequencies of those MM cartridges.
 
I was curious about this as well, I've just tried my Andromeda's OG with a cheap 3-5 USD copper cable from Aliexpress (I had to use a tool to make the connector round so you can imagine the quality hahah) vs the original which I believe is silver plated and should be of decent quality.

I used my Soncoz QXD1 --> Balanced Cable --> AAA 789 --> SE Gain 1

Not a better song than Hotel California Live on MTV 1994 to test.

My mindset was that cables don't make a difference, but it was so obvious:
  1. Very noticeable was the volume. it was lower on the cheap cable
  2. When trying to match the volume with the cheap cable everything bacame harsh and the shaker you can hear mostly on the right channel, just lost all its nuances and texture.
So yes, cables change the sound.. but I don't have a better cable than the andromedas came with to compare. My guess is that the impedance with the cheap copper cable changes, which explains the volume drop and sensitive IEMs like the Andromedas catch that very easily. I'm not sure up to which point the sound improves, my guess if volume is the same then it might not be any difference.

The moral of the story, I'll be more careful buying cheap cables next time.

I'll try to check some day what the OP did with the cheap IEMS I have (KZ).. it could be that the cable are holding them back a lot... I'm getting Ziigaat Odyssey OG soon which has the same cable I belive of some of my cheap IEMS. Will report back!

1st may I salute you, for your candid contribution here.

On the Internet, especially on "science" oriented forums, when you say you can hear differences in cables, as I have done, because it is true, I can hear these differences, there is a whole constituency that will argue with us, that we must be "hearing things", or it is placebo, etc, etc.

1st time I posted this observation, on another thread in AudioScienceReview, many months ago, after I swapped cables on my ARTTI T10, for the 1st time, and I heard the difference immediately, I was "shut down" by many comments. At the time, I also was a bit perplexed, cos in the professional audio world, as long as a cable meets certain minimum criteria, typically - just buy a good cable from a good brand, and no need to spend on snake oil, it works. Same with power cables. In that world I never believed in cables making any significant difference, at least not at the level of the kind of work I do.

If I was Beyonce or Taylor Swift's mixing engineer or mastering engineer, I may pay more attention to getting "better" audio cables, (but definitely not more esoteric power cables), such as interconnects for line level connections, and also premium brand microphone cables, if I was responsible for recording their vocals. So in that world, a decent well made cable, is all one needs, and it is easy to find such cables, that do not cost much money, not a problem.

In the professional audio world, same thing with headphones, we never bother about "balanced" headphones, truth be told, they do not exist in that world, practically all the headphone amplifiers I have ever used in either a hobby scenario or as a professional audio engineer, are "unbalanced". Here I speak of the typical Over Ear Headphones, such as a Sennheiser HD600/650, AKG K702, and the like. These products are typically supplied with decent cables by the manufacturer, and one really does not get into changing headphone cables, unless they are damaged, or cosmetically shabby looking. So that was where I was coming from, I never swapped headphone cables, and if I did, it would be for a similar cable, or an identical replacement from the manufacturer. I am aware that in the HiFi world, there is a lot of that going on - esoteric headphone cables, but that was something I did not believe in, and never engaged in - swapping cables for a sound improvement.

That was my premise - cables do not make a difference, cos I had no cause to think they did, once a cable met a certain quality threshold, in composition and manufacturing quality control, and in that world, if a cable is faulty, you hear it and know it is a fault, and either repair the cable, or just swap it out for a good one. Or use a cable tester, to test for continuity. So a cable is either good, or faulty. There was no comparing cables based on any foolishness such as frequency response. Once it was OFC(Oxygen Free Copper) cable, from a trusted good manufacturer, which almost ALL cables in that industry have been, for so many years in that industry, that was good enough.

Where science meets art and biology (i.e what we are hearing), is that we are now dealing with the IEM world, which has no clear standards. The vendors of IEM cables, including the stock cables bundled with IEMs, have very little to say about the qualities that qualify their cables as sufficient or otherwise. This is the elephant in the room, that unfortunately unless one has been down that path, and actually listened for one's own self, to different IEM cables, it does not dawn, and I can forgive those who say it should not make a difference, cos most likely they have never swapped cables on IEMs, and therefore never heard what some of us have heard - a difference, a marked difference sometimes, a repeatable consistent difference that is like night and day, within 2 seconds of listening, max 5 seconds of changing the cable, it is obvious, you are hearing a different sound.

Because unlike the more highly developed world of Hi-Fi, and Professional Audio, IEMs, and IEM cables have NO STANDARDS. None whatsoever. There is Not a single definition, of what a good IEM cable should be, never seen one written anywhere. The Electrical Engineering Societies, do not seem to have identified this market as one where they need to establish standards, and if they have established any, I am certainly NOT aware of this, and sure that most others are not aware of these. Above all the manufacturers are NOT aware of any such standards, cos their product marketing info, is all over the place. Each IEM cable vendor s highlighting whatever they consider important - colour of cable, made of silver, gold, palladium, graphene, or whatever exotic materials they can convince you may have an impact on the audio, and how many cores it has, and threads within a core, what kind of insulator it is wrapped in, the colour. It is rare for any of these cables to be advertised with criteria that may have an impact, such as resistance. Some do mention resistance, of their cables, but this is very rare. But I have never read or seen any other published properties, such as inductance or capacitance of an IEM cable - NEVER, not once, not a single time.

This is the fundamental reason we may have such a huge difference of opinions, in the IEM cable space, there are no standards, and most people who may be involved in IEM cables, it has probably NOT dawned on them also, that there are no standards. Every cable manufacturer does whatever they like, has no reason to conform to anything, and can make any kind of flowery snake oil claims about their cable, with absolutely no need of a proof.

So we the guinea pigs, who have now observed - hey we have a problem here, are the one's carrying the can. We are the ones hearing that something is obviously wrong or different as we change cables, and have no clue why, and the moment you speak up about this, someone who has not done a similar swap of cables, on your specific IEM make/model, and has not been in your shoes, shuts you down, as if you have been imagining things.

Here is what I am 100% sure of. Anyone with a reasonable hearing ability, I do not consider my hearing to be exceptional, or above any other human beings, will immediately hear the same difference, if they listened to exactly the same gear on which I swap these cables. So somewhere in my audio chain, something is causing this change.

There are some standards, by the way, the connectors on both ends of the IEM cable, that is the only set of common standards. Between those connectors, you can put whatever you like. A shoe lace - if that will conduct electricity. !!

Initially I thought, maybe it was a difference between the balanced and unbalanced outputs of my headphone amp. But now that I've normalised most of my cabling to balanced, and can compare cables on each of the headphone outputs, and in some cases I have modular cables, so I can swap exactly the same cable to a different headphone output, to eliminate that issue as a potential contributor to the variance. At this time I have only a small number of different cables, different in composition such as the type of conductor (copper, silver plated copper), and there are variances that I can see, in the thickness of the cable. In some cases the manufacturer provides some specs of the conductor, and from this I have done estimates of the resistance.

There is a correlation that I hear, when I swap through, a similar set of cables, with the same type of conductor. e.g All the silver plated cables I own. The lower the estimated resistance of the cable, the clearer the audio, the better dynamics, and audibility of frequencies at the extremes, such as sub bass and high frequencies, the more relaxed, natural, engaging, wide stereo and depth (aka layering - the ability to perceive in the audio things sounding near or coming from a distant point in virtual space - as it is in real life)

At the very least, this seems to be consistent for silver plated copper cables. And that in itself is an observation breakthrough. Discovering this consistent trend, and it is audible. Very easily audible. prior to now, I just knew I heard a difference, thinner cables sounding somewhat brighter (i.e lacking in bass), but now I can tie this to an electrical property - resistance, which reduces as the cable becomes thicker. Why is it so? I do not know, I am not a physicist, and do not have to be. The sun has been rising in the East and setting in the West for aeons, and the reason it does so, and the fact that the earth goes round the sun and not the other way round, took a very long time to be discovered. It was an observation every one could see. It did not need science to explain it,. It just needed people to accept that this was a well known fact, every day the sun has the same observed behaviour (with seasonal changes).

Why it is so - I do not know. But my better cables, typically more expensive, which I can see are physically chunkier, and in most cases for the better sounding IEM cables, the manufacturers have provided enough information for me to estimate their resistance, there is a correlation. Lower resistance - better audio. I am not a scientist, those who want double blind tests, are welcome to do so. At least they have something to start with, vary resistance of the cable, and listen.

When I could not get an explanation, from anyone else, hard as I tried to so do, I've thankfully, and most relieved, now done my own "experiments" which are repeatable, with ease, and I am sure of this, cables with estimated lower resistance, sound better. At least that is progress. Please note, this is with regard to the IEM cable world, where there are no standards for the electrical properties of cables, i.e there are no minimum expected thresholds, for such electrical properties. Anyone can put any string and anything together and call it an IEM cable. My point is, I have been able to identify something in that Wild Wild West, that makes a difference, and this is responsible for what I have heard. Lower resistance, more clarity, better audio. Why this is so, I leave to the physicists to explain.

Hopefully if one of them reads my anecdotes, they can also do these experiments, and at least I have provided some plausible cause and effect, from what I have heard, and they can investigate and develop this further.

I'll end by saying, I think at some point in time, the IEM cable business will evolve to have some well established minimum standards, such as a maximum acceptable resistance (or resistance per meter), and this can be the start of SANITY, in that business, and really improve the listening experience of those who use IEMs. I submit that at this point in time, most IEM users, are most likely guinea pigs of inadequate cables, especially the stock cables, and are therefore NOT getting the maximum benefit from their IEMs. What you do not know, does not hurt you, so many are blissfully ignorant, of the full potential of their IEM, which can be achieved by getting a better cable. But how does one define a better cable? One factor clearly seems to be via lower resistance, from my own limited experience and experiments.

From my experiments, I would suggest a maximum resistance of 0.2 Ohms, and ideally a maximum resistance of 0.14 Ohms. This is based on my own estimates of the resistance of my silver plated copper cables.(calculated from information provided by the manufacturer)
 
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My audio chain - TempoTec Sonata BHD (ASIO driven) from a Windows 11 PC, into various IEM cables, into a GK Kunten IEM, with Sonicfoam SF1 Large ear tips., for those who may wish to replicate.

Silver coated copper cables involved in the test, in ascending order of estimated resistance :

1. KZ Stock cable
2. QKZ T7
3. ARTTI T10 stock cable
4. CVJ Flora
 
Got my nice pretty blue Zonie cables that match my blue Zero2s, and guess what? Near as I can tell - my Zero2s sound just like they did before, except I'm not worried about the cable fraying!
 
I noticed the Tripowin Zonie is now available in 2 meter length! (regular is 1.25m) Only in gray ATM.

I look forward to no longer inadvertently sitting on and disrupting the connection!
 
I do not yet have a multi-meter, but will get one, simply to do basic cable continuity tests, and double check the pin to end point connections have been done properly. The biggest error in this IEM space, is assumptions.

I assumed that would have been done properly. Looking back I realise, that is an assumption. The budget IEM cable segment, which is what I can afford at this time, may need further work on the part of the user, to be sure, the cable was connected properly, in the 1st place.

I'll also check for any "leakages", i.e current flowing to multiple pins, at the same time from one of the partitions on the headphone connector, and vice versa. Just in case this is creating some kind of odd phase response or crosstalk cancellation.

Indeed I still hear differences between cables, but before one attributes this to the cable or insulator properties, I now really must do a basic check of the connections, on all cables. I expect the results to be "interesting" and hopefully explain some of the observations, at the very least, I can weed out an suspect cables, from the listening tests.

I live in the UK and typically buy from either Amazon.co.uk, Ebay.co.uk, or AliExpress. Happy to shop at any reputable store (physical or online). Please if you have suggestions of a multi meter, that is not expensive, simply to check continuity of cabling, I'd be happy to receive your suggestions. Thanks in advance.
 
There are two key factors to headphone cable performance that I would like to emphasize.
1. Does the cable have 4 conductors throughout, only 3 or a mix with a T-piece in between? (If it's modular with a balanced option, it pretty much has to be 4-conductor all the way from where the adapter plugs in.)
2. What is the respective resistance of each conductor? (Connector resistance tends to be negligible but may be a factor if tarnished or whatever. All bets are off when breaks in the cable or bad solder joints are involved.)

The observed phenomenon of reduced bass response is very typical for a combination of a thin (partially) 3-conductor cable (and/or tarnished 3.5mm plug) with a low-impedance (say 16 ohm) IEM. If there is shared ground return resistance Rsg, the mid (L+R) signal gets attenuated by a factor of Znom/(Z_nom + 2Rsg) [1], while the side (L-R) signal remains unaffected. If driver impedance Znom is mostly resistive like on a dynamic driver affair, this pretty much amounts to a slight stereo widening effect. If we're talking a multi-driver BA with a rollercoaster impedance response, the magnitude of the effect would be reflecting that and become accordingly more interesting.

Strictly speaking L and R conductor resistance Rslr (assumed = Rsl = Rsr) should also be taken into account, though in practice this doesn't change much.
Then our L+R attenuation becomes Znom / (Znom + Rslr + 2Rsg).
Let's say we have Znom = 16 ohms, Rslr = Rsg = 1 ohm, then the above amounts to
16 ohms / (16 ohms + 1 ohm + 2 ohms) ~= 0.842.
Meanwhile, L-R is also slightly attenuated by Znom/(Znom + Rslr) = 16/17 = ~0.941.
Effective stereo widening is the quotient of (L-R) and (L+R) amplitudes, which would be
(Znom + Rslr + 2Rsg) / (Znom + Rslr) =
16/17 / (16/19) = 19/17 ~= 1.118 or ~1/0.895. In Rockbox I would then choose a custom stereo channel configuration with the nearest option of 0.90 for separation to make up for it.
If Znom is decidedly variable over frequency, then the effect would be stronger where it is lower and vice versa. Same formula applies, it's just that attenuation and Znom become a function of f.

Measuring Rsg and Rslr with a multimeter can be quite tricky, as their accuracy tends to go south in the <1 ohm region (the cheaper ones generally being worse) and getting good contact between the probes and connectors tends to be a challenge. Come to think of it, I should probably recalibrate my ESR meter for use with clip probes and try that on some cables, now that I have all that stuff.

Side note, amplifier output impedance basically just adds to Rslr. This leads to an interesting effect: For a given constant Rsg, the bigger the sum of Znom and Rslr is, the smaller the stereo widening effect becomes. There are some situations like jacks following long and thin wiring (*cough* PC front panel outputs *cough*) where some series resistance may actually be quite desirable, assuming it doesn't get you into too much trouble with non-constant driver impedance. Tradeoffs. This also goes a way towards explaining why traditional hi-fi headphones have tended to be in the hundreds of ohms. It makes everything much less of a hassle, assuming output voltage is still sufficient. If you've got a 600 ohm load, whether your cable has 3 or 4 conductors is basically irrelevant, they can't be arbitrarily thin for practical reasons anyway. (Sennheiser has had a tendency to stick with 4 conductors regardless, and for a long time. Possibly it's because DIN headphone connectors actually used all of them, and they had one cable going to each earpiece anyway.)

[1] L+R sees a load of (Znom || Znom) + Rsg = Znom/2 + Rsg, and we're interested in the voltage over Znom. Boring old voltage divider.
 
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There are two key factors to headphone cable performance that I would like to emphasize.
1. Does the cable have 4 conductors throughout, only 3 or a mix with a T-piece in between? (If it's modular with a balanced option, it pretty much has to be 4-conductor all the way from where the adapter plugs in.)
2. What is the respective resistance of each conductor? (Connector resistance tends to be negligible but may be a factor if tarnished or whatever. All bets are off when breaks in the cable or bad solder joints are involved.)

The observed phenomenon of reduced bass response is very typical for a combination of a thin (partially) 3-conductor cable (and/or tarnished 3.5mm plug) with a low-impedance (say 16 ohm) IEM. If there is shared ground return resistance Rsg, the mid (L+R) signal gets attenuated by a factor of Znom/(Z_nom + 2Rsg) [1], while the side (L-R) signal remains unaffected. If driver impedance Znom is mostly resistive like on a dynamic driver affair, this pretty much amounts to a slight stereo widening effect. If we're talking a multi-driver BA with a rollercoaster impedance response, the magnitude of the effect would be reflecting that and become accordingly more interesting.

Strictly speaking L and R conductor resistance Rslr (assumed = Rsl = Rsr) should also be taken into account, though in practice this doesn't change much.
Then our L+R attenuation becomes Znom / (Znom + Rslr + 2Rsg).
Let's say we have Znom = 16 ohms, Rslr = Rsg = 1 ohm, then the above amounts to
16 ohms / (16 ohms + 1 ohm + 2 ohms) ~= 0.842.
Meanwhile, L-R is also slightly attenuated by Znom/(Znom + Rslr) = 16/17 = ~0.941.
Effective stereo widening is the quotient of (L-R) and (L+R) amplitudes, which would be
(Znom + Rslr + 2Rsg) / (Znom + Rslr) =
16/17 / (16/19) = 19/17 ~= 1.118 or ~1/0.895. In Rockbox I would then choose a custom stereo channel configuration with the nearest option of 0.90 for separation to make up for it.
If Znom is decidedly variable over frequency, then the effect would be stronger where it is lower and vice versa. Same formula applies, it's just that attenuation and Znom become a function of f.

Measuring Rsg and Rslr with a multimeter can be quite tricky, as their accuracy tends to go south in the <1 ohm region (the cheaper ones generally being worse) and getting good contact between the probes and connectors tends to be a challenge. Come to think of it, I should probably recalibrate my ESR meter for use with clip probes and try that on some cables, now that I have all that stuff.

Side note, amplifier output impedance basically just adds to Rslr. This leads to an interesting effect: For a given constant Rsg, the bigger the sum of Znom and Rslr is, the smaller the stereo widening effect becomes. There are some situations like jacks following long and thin wiring (*cough* PC front panel outputs *cough*) where some series resistance may actually be quite desirable, assuming it doesn't get you into too much trouble with non-constant driver impedance. Tradeoffs. This also goes a way towards explaining why traditional hi-fi headphones have tended to be in the hundreds of ohms. It makes everything much less of a hassle, assuming output voltage is still sufficient. If you've got a 600 ohm load, whether your cable has 3 or 4 conductors is basically irrelevant, they can't be arbitrarily thin for practical reasons anyway. (Sennheiser has had a tendency to stick with 4 conductors regardless, and for a long time. Possibly it's because DIN headphone connectors actually used all of them, and they had one cable going to each earpiece anyway.)

[1] L+R sees a load of (Znom || Znom) + Rsg = Znom/2 + Rsg, and we're interested in the voltage over Znom. Boring old voltage divider.
Thanks. At this time, I have two 3 kinds of cables, if I attempt to group them, by type.

1. Balanced i.e with 5 segments on the 4.4mm headphone plug end of the cable. I expect 2 of these to feed and return Left, another 2 to feed and return the Right side. What I do not know cos I have not bothered checking is if these Left and Right circuits have a common ground which would be contact with the 5th segment on the headphone connector. But that I can check.

2. Unbalanced with 3 segments on the 3.5mm headphone plug end of the cable. I expect that this is very similar to standard unbalanced 6.5mm(stereo headphone jack) in terms of connection, so we have a send to Left, another to Right, and the returns of the circuit through and back to the plug, from the Left and Right earpieces, share a common connection to the third segment of the headphone plug.

3. Modular cables which terminate in a 5 point cable end, with adapters which convert from these 4 points to either :

3.1 A 4.4mm balanced plug with 5 segments
OR
3.2 A 3.5mm unbalanced stereo plug with 3 segments

I do not think I have the time patience, at this time, to think of measuring LCR of these cables. Why? I recognise that for these measurements to be accurate, one may need a bit of an investment in the tool. Maybe, maybe at some other time I may consider this. I know this is AudioScienceReview, but I am not an electrical or electronics engineer, just along term user of audio gear. I can and have soldered a long time ago, but never measured anything electrical,,. Never had to, cos typically I do not have voodoo issues with professional audio gear, which I buy. It is either working as expected or faulty and goes back to the supplier. Not my job to baby sit any manufacturer's faulty gear. My job as a hobbyist or professional audio person has been plug and play. Suspect cables, simply get taken out of the audio chain and replaced!

Purely out of interest and to narrow down, any more serious issues going on with my cables, at this time, I'm willing to invest in a tool that allows be to check - is each expected cable connection working, as expected. Just to eliminate any serious manufacturing defects in these cables, just in case. So that I can limit any listening tests to a shortlist of cables that I know are definitely working as expected., before I bother to include them in any listening comparison.
 
Tiny sound and loss of bass with iems is mostly due to bad seal.
Stock cables provided by many cheap iem have angled 2 pin connectors that for someone (like me) never permit to rotate the iems enough to get the nozzle at the right angle for my ear canals, so I can never get good seal with that type of cables. Sometime even cable with straight 2 pin connectors have ear-hooks so "closed" that produce the same result, also depending on iems.
At the end of the day I always swap cable with straight connectors ones and in some case I also loosen the plastic ear-hooks using an hairdryer.
 
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Tiny sound and loss of bass with iems is mostly due to bad seal.
Stock cables provided by many cheap iem have angled 2 pin connectors that for someone (like me) never permit to rotate the iems enough to get the nozzle at the right angle for my ear canals, so I can never get good seal with that type of cables. Sometime even cable with straight 2 pin connectors have ear-hooks so "closed" that produce the same result, also depending on iems.
At the end of the day I always swap cable with straight connectors ones and in some case I also loosen the plastic ear-hooks using an hairdryer.
Thanks.

A while ago, I stumbled on what I have found to be the "better" result of foam tips, from a few bonus foam tips bundled with a purchase from AliExpress, which I never bothered to use. I was tip rolling silicones one day and thought - what does this other thing sound like, and I was recording my impressions of each foam tip, looked back at a consistent common theme in all the foam tips I tried on that day, and I had to get to the bottom of what was a pretty significant improvement.

The foam tips I tried on that 1st day were not exactly my size, but they demonstrated a promise I had to explore further, which I did.

Having used silicones for about 2 years, on ear buds and IEMs. I went through a pretty exhaustive review of what was available in foams, ordered two sets from AliExpress and three different sizes of inner/outer diameter pairs, of Sonicfoams from Amazon, exploring the impact of the outer diameter as well as the inner bore diameter of the foam tip, on the sonics, as well as fit. Making sure to understand what each IEM needed, which is typically a proper matching of their inner nozzle diameter as closely as possible to the diameter of the inner bore of the foam tip, while the outer foam tip diameter, addresses the fit in my ear canal.

So I have really, barring fitting custom IEMs, gone as far as is usually possible, to get the best fit. Now I only listen with Sonicfoam SF1 Large. For IEMs with a smaller inner nozzle diameter, the Sonicfoam SF2 Large, may be ideal, for me. Same outer diameter but smaller inner bore than the SF1's.

On cable differences, after an extensive further run through of many of my cables today, while I still do NOT have an explanation for why they sound different, or make the IEM sound different, I have decided to no longer bother looking for one, cos I've invested a few weeks on the effort to understand why, what to buy etc.

The answers are there somewhere, I'm just not qualified technically with the tools to investigate further. Pretty sure in time to come, the root causes will become apparent. I do not know why, so these are not statements of cause and effect, only correlations. This is my concluding thought on the issue.

1. For whatever it is worth, a low impedance cable seems to sound better. Based on my calculations of their resistance, from info I gleaned on Head-Fi, somehow the two cables, I am most satisfied with, have the lowest estimated resistance, based on the information available to me., and this is consistent with all my cables. I have not measured this resistance myself, but that seems to be a trend.

2. I think it is difficult to identify who makes better cables, cos there is really not much to go on, to take such a decision, from the product descriptions. I had to go the one step further to limit my purchases to cables, where I has enough info, to estimate their resistance(allowing for things like solder and connector resistance and making estimates for this - additional 0.035 Ohms). The cable I have found to sound best to me, is an OPENHEART. I do not know how they do it, or what exactly is different about it, cos I have another similarly low resistance (estimated) cable - the CVJ FLora, which sounds quite good, but different. The OPENHEART had the lowest estimated resistance, of all the cables I was able to research. Now resistance is probably only one criteria.

3. The other things that come to mind are - quality control, quality of termination, solder, etc, etc,

4. Finally the insulators. One really has very little knowledge of how this varies between the cables available on AliExpress, or Amazon or Ebay.

5. This is neither here nor there, but OPENHEART seems to have only one product type - on AliExpress - cables, headphone cables, and headphone cable accessories. Nothing else. Maybe specialisation has taught them something that others have not yet discovered!!

Anyway, thank you all, this part of the rabbit hole journey comes to an end. After about two years. mission accomplished, with a lot of pain.

For IEM based listening, I have arrived at :

1. DAC - TempoTec Sonata BHD, Apple Dongle, Samsung Dongle (if it is true it is actually - cos there seem to be so many counterfeits). and a few other dongles based on the CX31993 DAC. Only for me to realise that for casual listening on a mobile phone, which has a headphone output in a noisy street, any improvement over the in-built Samsung DAC, will be inaudible !! TempoTec is excellent - phenomenal product - used when I'm at a desk.

2. Cables - OPENHEART 8 core silver coated copper - 2 pin 0.78mm - balanced 4.4mm, available on AliExpress in a few colours, for critical listening, CVJ Flora for relaxed listening, and the ARRTI T10 stock cable does a good job - but vocals are a bit too forward - kinda strange cos the T10 is a planar magnetic and should not "respond" with varying impedance with frequency. One day someone competent enough will explain these things that should NOT be. Now it figures why some have a certain impression of planar magnetic IEMs - could be the cable. The OPENHEART cable seems to resolve most of the "harsh top end of the ARTTI T10 IEM".

3. Ear Tips - SonicFoam SF1 - mine are Large.

4. IEMs - ARRTI T10, GK Kunten, KZ ZVX Pro, KZ PRX, Apple Earpods (perfectly adequate for spoken word listening or calls), 7Hz Zero 2, and a few others which never see the light of day. I really only listen to the 1st 4 on this list. Zero 2 is fine great budget IEM, if you have nothing better.

Thanks everyone. Truly appreciate all your contributions.

Now I can just sit back, relax, enjoy the audio.
 
1. Balanced i.e with 5 segments on the 4.4mm headphone plug end of the cable. I expect 2 of these to feed and return Left, another 2 to feed and return the Right side. What I do not know cos I have not bothered checking is if these Left and Right circuits have a common ground which would be contact with the 5th segment on the headphone connector. But that I can check.
How would you check that? (just curious…)
 
How would you check that? (just curious…)
Simple continuity test. Place a tester "pin" on that 5th segment and use the 2nd tester "pin" to check if there is a connection (i.e current flowing), from any of the 4 pins which connect to the ear pieces.

That's from a checking point of view. Nevertheless, I would expect that I should be able to find somewhere on the web, the reference for each of the connection points on both sides of any kind of IEM cable, i.e on one end that would be 2.5mm balanced, 3.5mm unbalanced, 4.4mm balanced, and on the other end would be either 2 pin 0.78mm or QDC (I do not have any MMCX terminated IEMs)

But I'm not bothering with this test anymore, as a priority, until someday when I decide to make my own cables, then I obviously will need to have something to test the cable, electrically, to make sure I've soldered things properly. Making my own cables is not a priority at this time, but would be one more interesting adventure. I suspect that some of the constraints to cable design, are not helped by the aesthetic requirements of weight, flexibility, etc, look and feel.

One day, I'd love to make my own cables, with only one priority in mind, sound quality. Cos I listen typically 95% at a desk, so many of those other constraints, do not apply to me as much. so this would be a blank page design, possibly avoiding insulation and using only air as the insulator, as much as possible. Its just for me, and no one else will see it, so it does not need to be pretty, only requirement is - deliver audio with the absolute minimum "obstruction". That would be an interesting project.
 
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