iD4 & iD14 MK II - Audient updated their Audio Interfaces

[Tapik]

It will be ok. Study the comments and reviews by Julian Krause on YT. He is the expert. He would prefer a lower impedance for the output but your phones would be ok.

He said in video that you need 80+ Ohms headphones and that's what bugs me a bit

 

[teashea]

He said in video that you need 80+ Ohms headphones and that's what bugs me a bit

Yours are very close to that.

 

[Bamboszek]

Here is excellent explanation of headphone & amplifier impedance: https://diyaudioheaven.wordpress.com/tutorials/how-to-interpret-graphs/impedance/

With non-zero output impedance amplifier you should have slightly more bass.
It isn't really that strict. You don't need some exact of headphone / amp output impedance or otherwise it will sound completely bad.

 

[teashea]

FYI, for comparison purposes ---- the new Audient iD48......... I have ordered one. Quite a nice piece of kit.

 

[Bamboszek]

Did they improved their drivers? Back in the day Audient used generic Thysecon drivers like many others such as Behringer or SSL.

While these drivers are acceptable for inexpensive interfaces, I would definitely choose something else with bigger budget.
Latency and stability was far away from RME or MOTU

 

[teashea]

The driver for the SSL 12 is quite good and I suspect that the driver for this as good or better.

 

[jonwb]

I'm running 48/24 at 64 samples with my Audient iD14 Mk2. I'm not sure I can do better. Maybe better A/D conversion with a high-end interface, but nothing I'd spend >$2k for.

 

[AnalogSteph]

I'm running 48/24 at 64 samples with my Audient iD14 Mk2. I'm not sure I can do better.

Is 24/96 with a 128 sample buffer stable?

 

[jonwb]

Is 24/96 with a 128 sample buffer stable?

I haven't tried it (mainly because my VIs work better at 48KHz) but give me some time and I'll report back.

 

[jonwb]

Ok well yes and no... the playback at 24/96 with a 128 buffer is solid BUT when enabling the record functions for either VI's or audio, the CPU is taxed heavily. Too much for me to keep it there. At 24/48, the CPU jumps about 25% with that scenario.

 

[n1kk00]

Hey guys, I'm new to this forum but I notice the JK himself posts here so it must be a nice place

I recently bought a used iD4 mk2 (I also have an iD14 mk2 but I wanted something a little bit more compact for mobile use). After playing around with the interface for a few minutes I noticed that the iD button doesn't work (apparently, it was cheaper for a reason...). Needless to say, I can't return it so I opened it up to try to get to the switch. It's on a small board together with the speakers mute button. I sprayed it with some contact cleaner and it started working from time to time. I guess this means that a switch replacement would fix it.

So, does anybody know what kind of switches are these? Based on some very crude multi-meter measurements (listening for the straight connection beep ), looks like it's a SPST, normal open, momentary. Based on looks and the outside dimensions, I found a TS-H004.

I'd greatly appreciate it if anyone could chime in with comments or suggestions. Anyone had a switch die and get replaced outside of warranty?

Cheers!

 

[teashea]

Hey guys, I'm new to this forum but I notice the JK himself posts here so it must be a nice place

I recently bought a used iD4 mk2 (I also have an iD14 mk2 but I wanted something a little bit more compact for mobile use). After playing around with the interface for a few minutes I noticed that the iD button doesn't work (apparently, it was cheaper for a reason...). Needless to say, I can't return it so I opened it up to try to get to the switch. It's on a small board together with the speakers mute button. I sprayed it with some contact cleaner and it started working from time to time. I guess this means that a switch replacement would fix it.

So, does anybody know what kind of switches are these? Based on some very crude multi-meter measurements (listening for the straight connection beep ), looks like it's a SPST, normal open, momentary. Based on looks and the outside dimensions, I found a TS-H004.

I'd greatly appreciate it if anyone could chime in with comments or suggestions. Anyone had a switch die and get replaced outside of warranty?

Cheers!

interesting....

 

[jdoe]

Anyone had a switch die and get replaced outside of warranty?

Usually local electronics repair shops can do a replacement quickly and very cheap (you might have to purchase replacement switch before sending your item for repair). Alternatively you can also ask in local chat groups if there anyone available and willing to help you with replacement.

 

[n1kk00]

Usually local electronics repair shops can do a replacement quickly and very cheap (you might have to purchase replacement switch before sending your item for repair). Alternatively you can also ask in local chat groups if there anyone available and willing to help you with replacement.

Yep, that's my plan, once I have the correct switch.
On the bright side, I just got a reply from the Audient support team and they say the correct part can be found here, C601B-203L-5SR-N2 WHT Illuminated Tact Switch - Matte cap. So at least now I know what I'm looking for (let's hope the min. order quantity is not 1000 pieces ).

 

[n1kk00]

To anyone interested, I was able to repair the iD4 Ended up ordering 20 switches, the ones Audient support sent me (the factory in China had to manufacture some because they were out of stock...). Anyways, I managed to do the soldering myself but that's not something I want to do again in the future .
Ironically, the iD button is not something I ever use but hey, I got a fully working interface now (long live OCD )

 

[LambdaCDM]

To anyone interested, I was able to repair the iD4 Ended up ordering 20 switches, the ones Audient support sent me (the factory in China had to manufacture some because they were out of stock...). Anyways, I managed to do the soldering myself but that's not something I want to do again in the future .
Ironically, the iD button is not something I ever use but hey, I got a fully working interface now (long live OCD )

ordering 20 switches
How?

 

[teashea]

To anyone interested, I was able to repair the iD4 Ended up ordering 20 switches, the ones Audient support sent me (the factory in China had to manufacture some because they were out of stock...). Anyways, I managed to do the soldering myself but that's not something I want to do again in the future .
Ironically, the iD button is not something I ever use but hey, I got a fully working interface now (long live OCD )

Congrats...................

 

[n1kk00]

ordering 20 switches
How?

I found the factory on Alibaba (Cha Switches or something). I sent them a message, some lady replied, I told them I would buy up to 20, no more. They offered a price of ~$0.3 per switch but said they would need to make some 'cause they were out of stock - took them less than 2 days . And then they destroyed me with a $27 shipping charge (FedEx express)... . But it is what it is...

 

[teashea]

I found the factory on Alibaba (Cha Switches or something). I sent them a message, some lady replied, I told them I would buy up to 20, no more. They offered a price of ~$0.3 per switch but said they would need to make some 'cause they were out of stock - took them less than 2 days . And then they destroyed me with a $27 shipping charge (FedEx express)... . But it is what it is...

pretty good deal

 

[LambdaCDM]

Hey guys, I'm new to this forum but I notice the JK himself posts here so it must be a nice place

I recently bought a used iD4 mk2 (I also have an iD14 mk2 but I wanted something a little bit more compact for mobile use). After playing around with the interface for a few minutes I noticed that the iD button doesn't work (apparently, it was cheaper for a reason...). Needless to say, I can't return it so I opened it up to try to get to the switch. It's on a small board together with the speakers mute button. I sprayed it with some contact cleaner and it started working from time to time. I guess this means that a switch replacement would fix it.

So, does anybody know what kind of switches are these? Based on some very crude multi-meter measurements (listening for the straight connection beep ), looks like it's a SPST, normal open, momentary. Based on looks and the outside dimensions, I found a TS-H004.

I'd greatly appreciate it if anyone could chime in with comments or suggestions. Anyone had a switch die and get replaced outside of warranty?

Cheers!

So, my story with iD button. About a year after purchasing a completely new audio interface, I noticed that the ID button started glitching—it wouldn't switch on the first press. Eventually, I got fed up with it. I can't get exactly the same original switch, and take TS-H004 (10pcs). But this switches are don't fit with round keycap, they are for square keycaps i guess. Then i've take one of this non-compatible switches and disassembly it. Inside are very simple mechanism (pic attached). So i've decided to make several flushing injections (using smallest syringe + 99% Isopropanol) inside original switch right on pcb, without desoldering it. So it helps to me. Now button works perfectly fine, like new.
Maybe this will be useful to someone.