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iD4 & iD14 MK II - Audient updated their Audio Interfaces

cajadas

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Sell it and get the Apogee Boom, with an audiophile-grade headphone amp. Doesn't just sound much better (AD-DA conversion/implementation/preamps), as headphone out has no comparison.

Sound quality of this interface is terrific for the price. Sounds as good as Duet 3 (same analogue components/conversion). As low as 250€ on some online stores.

I even dare to say it sounds close to Antelope Audio Zen Go for half the price. DSP is very musical, very helpful too.

Can be used as an high-end DAc as per professional reviews.

I've had ID14 MKII and sold it when I had a listen to MOTU M4. Deeper and wider soundstage, bit better detail retrieval. Apogee BOOM makes MOTU M4 sound somewhat muffled/congested in comparison. Just to give you an idea. Headphone out wise, you can even use 600 Ohm headphones.

I've just got it last month, so I'm using 2023 drivers and FW update. 100% stability under Windows 10 and pretty low latencies and I'm using the worst CPU possible (Ryzen 1700X).
 
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Tangband

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Both ID4 MK2 and ID14 MK2 (which I have) heavily depend on the power delivery of USB cable. Some folks even create custom cables, where USB power-lines and data-lines are separate (see some old ID14 mk2 review - USB power-lines are connected to the charger directly, but data-lines are keep intact). I would recommend to purchase USB cable, which is rated for high-current charge/transfer. For example - https://www.amazon.com/Baseus-Charing-Compatible-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B08M5PSFWF (or just find some in your local stores).
What is even worse with new Audient devices - even sound quality specs, like SINAD, THD, etc... are affected by the power delivery. That is why audio interface with separate power-brick always more preferable, unless you do really travel with laptop only and there are no power-outlets around you.
Hmm … I wonder is there any gain in quality when recording with 48 v mics, to feed the Audient id14 mkII with a 5 v powerbank ?
Audientid14 mkI had a separate external power supply for the 48 v phantom supply, maybe this was a good thing ?
 

jdoe

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Good point -- I am currently using THIS USB-C CABLE , but I did try the one that came with the Audient and still no luck.
I see, in that case I suspect your iD4Mk2 might have factory defect. I can only advise to return it if it is still possible and try some other interface(s).
One more note: if you have someone around with Windows desktop/laptop, please try to verify if your iD4Mk2 behaves similarly on different setups.
 

studio7

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Last thing to check: have you accidentally pressed the volume knob? It also functions as a clickable button, attenuating the output level by 15dB.

With my 55 Ohm cans the iD4 Mk2 has plenty of power.
 

8ty8

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Last thing to check: have you accidentally pressed the volume knob? It also functions as a clickable button, attenuating the output level by 15dB.

With my 55 Ohm cans the iD4 Mk2 has plenty of power.

Did you read both of my posts on page 12?

FYI -- 55 Ohm is NOT high impedance, and according to JK's Impedance video, you shouldn't be using that low impedance with the iD 4, as the sound will be distorted.

Per my experience, it seems the iD4 cannot power DT 770s at or above 80 Ohms.

I'm going to wait and see if anything exciting is released at NAMM, but will return the Audient and most likely get a JDS amp.

Thanks to all who responded!
 
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Bamboszek

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You have something configured incorrectly.

Just verified with my iD4 (first version) and DT990 Pro 250Ω.
It can get uncomfortably loud with LEDs at -6/0 dB. When fully turned on it could serve as small desktop speakers ;)

Per my experience, it seems the iD4 cannot power DT 770s at or above 80 Ohms.
It is not true. I did teardown of iD4 and it internally generates +12/-12 V (or even 15 V, not 100% sure now) rails from USB power. Plenty of voltage to drive high impedance headphones.
Contrary to popular belief and intuition - higher the Ω, easier the load.
So for example 16Ω is much harder load for amplifier than 300Ω.
The only issue with high impedance headphones is in portable gear where high voltages are not that easy to generate from battery power supply, so then lower impedance headphones with lower voltage and higher current requirements are relatively easier to drive.

FYI -- 55 Ohm is NOT high impedance, and according to JK's Impedance video, you shouldn't be using that low impedance with the iD 4, as the sound will be distorted.
Another misunderstanding. Distortion actually is lowered with increased impedance, because as I previously said higher impedance is easier load for amplifier.
Only issue with low impedance headphones and iD4 it high output impedance of Audient. Which MAY affect damping factor and frequency response on SOME headphones.

If you want some in-depth explanations in those terms take a look at blog of @solderdude
 

studio7

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Did you read both of my posts on page 12?

FYI -- 55 Ohm is NOT high impedance, and according to JK's Impedance video, you shouldn't be using that low impedance with the iD 4, as the sound will be distorted.

Per my experience, it seems the iD4 cannot power DT 770s at or above 80 Ohms.

I'm going to wait and see if anything exciting is released at NAMM, but will return the Audient and most likely get a JDS amp.

Thanks to all who responded!

:facepalm:

Alright, the iD4 was designed to power both 55Ohm and 250Ohm cans, but not your 80Ohm headphones.
 

8ty8

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:facepalm:

Alright, the iD4 was designed to power both 55Ohm and 250Ohm cans, but not your 80Ohm headphones.
I appreciate that you were trying to help, but please read THIS and THIS :rolleyes: and let's stop derailing this thread. Your condescension is also unnecessary.

Btw, anytime you post on any forum, it would really do you well to actually read through to get context on what has already been discussed instead of randomly jumping in with suggestions, because chances are, 99.9% of the time, your random suggestion has already been tried and discussed. Case in point, had you done your research, you would've seen that -- YES, I made sure the volume knob *dim audio* function was not enabled, and I own BOTH the 80 and 250 Ohm DT 770 Pros.


Thank you @Bamboszek for proving and supporting my point:

FYI -- 55 Ohm is NOT high impedance, and according to JK's Impedance video, you shouldn't be using that low impedance with the iD 4, as the sound will be distorted.

Only issue with low impedance headphones and iD4 it high output impedance of Audient. Which MAY affect damping factor and frequency response on SOME headphones.

Exactly what I said above -- So thanks again for supporting my point about the detriment of using low impedance cans with a high impedance Audient, and I also appreciate the links you provided.

Also, I was referring to the Post-AKM fire Mk2 iD4, not your Mk1 or pre-AKM fire Mk2 (see both links above or scroll back to page 12). If you read through this thread, you would see that the internals changed after the AKM fire.

With my 55 Ohm cans the iD4 Mk2 has plenty of power.

Per the above, he is using LOW impedance cans with a HIGH output impedance iD4 Mk2 -- so sound WILL be distorted. Just watch the link I provided above to JK's video on impedance, as he demos it in that video, and you can visually see the distortion of the sine wave he uses when he shows the effects of a high output impedance on low impedance cans.

Look at how high the output impedance of the iD4 Mk2 is.

Screenshot 2023-04-01 at 5.32.52 PM.png


We don't need to keep discussing this anymore as it's veering off topic, plus @Bamboszek -- you and I are saying the same thing (Don't use low impedance cans with high output impedance interfaces, as sound will be distorted). I've already returned my Audient and I'm just going to go with an amp instead.

Thanks again for all your responses. My personal experience still stands -- Post AKM-fire iD4 Mk2 is not powerful enough to drive 80 or 250 Ohm DT 770 Pros, an amp is still required for this use case.

Cheers
 
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khanhncm

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Hi there,

Just receive and experience my ID4 MK2 for a day here. Coming from a Scarlett Solo 3rd. The differences is night and day. DAC, ADC, headphone. There is no "nuances" improvement here. But still, I have my curiosity taking over. I try to open by unscrewing it. But I can only access as far as that . I could reach any further to the inside and see the chips for myself. They stack 2 layer of PCB inside the enclosure, I can't find anyway to split them out. No way to open ... except using force.... I don't want to break my audio interface, through.

So I wanna ask, how could you guys do that to access the PCB, and see the chip ? Any special tool, somehow?
 

the_brunx

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Hi there,

Just receive and experience my ID4 MK2 for a day here. Coming from a Scarlett Solo 3rd. The differences is night and day. DAC, ADC, headphone. There is no "nuances" improvement here. But still, I have my curiosity taking over. I try to open by unscrewing it. But I can only access as far as that . I could reach any further to the inside and see the chips for myself. They stack 2 layer of PCB inside the enclosure, I can't find anyway to split them out. No way to open ... except using force.... I don't want to break my audio interface, through.

So I wanna ask, how could you guys do that to access the PCB, and see the chip ? Any special tool, somehow?
Maybe unscrew the metal spacers counterclockwise?
 

Julian Krause

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Hi there,

Just receive and experience my ID4 MK2 for a day here. Coming from a Scarlett Solo 3rd. The differences is night and day. DAC, ADC, headphone. There is no "nuances" improvement here. But still, I have my curiosity taking over. I try to open by unscrewing it. But I can only access as far as that . I could reach any further to the inside and see the chips for myself. They stack 2 layer of PCB inside the enclosure, I can't find anyway to split them out. No way to open ... except using force.... I don't want to break my audio interface, through.

So I wanna ask, how could you guys do that to access the PCB, and see the chip ? Any special tool, somehow?
As the_brunx mentioned you can simply unscrew the brass standoffs with a small hex wrench. The lower PCB connects to the upper one with some long pins which you carefully have to pull out by pulling the two PCBs apart. When reassembling the interface, make sure the connecting pins between the PCBs align before pushing the lower PCB back into place. The pins are quite thin and easy to bend out of position. I also recommend to make sure the brass standoffs are torqued down firmly again, because the screws for the outer housing screw into them as well. If the brass standoff comes loose inside the interface you might never be able to unscrew the housing from the outside again, as the standoff just keeps spinning inside the interface.
If you use a bright torch and use your smartphones camera to peak into the housing you might actually be able to make out the chips without the need for a full disassembly.
 

LunaRay

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So, quick question. I've broke my Babyface 1gen, i need one headphone and monitor out. And one mic only. Is this good replacement? For budget
 

khanhncm

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Well, I decided to stop pursuing this quest after 2nd try. I still stop at the enclosing opening stage.
My iphone 13 Mini is too thick, I can't stick it in. And the phone won't take a clear enough shot to see what the text is.
Those metal spacers is real tight, I can't unscrew them with my bare-hand.

I upload a video for those who is curious as me.

My purchase is a pre-owned from Alto at 162USD before tax, and before 5% COOLS discount code. This is definitely a steal, man. I'm not a pro , I've only experienced my old Scarlett Solo 3rd gen and this Audient ID4 MK2.

All in all. Thank you for all your helps.
 

studio7

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Well, I decided to stop pursuing this quest after 2nd try. I still stop at the enclosing opening stage.
My iphone 13 Mini is too thick, I can't stick it in. And the phone won't take a clear enough shot to see what the text is.
Those metal spacers is real tight, I can't unscrew them with my bare-hand.

I upload a video for those who is curious as me.

My purchase is a pre-owned from Alto at 162USD before tax, and before 5% COOLS discount code. This is definitely a steal, man. I'm not a pro , I've only experienced my old Scarlett Solo 3rd gen and this Audient ID4 MK2.

All in all. Thank you for all your helps.

It's really easy to unscrew those spacers. But if you're simply curios about the ADC, look at the serial number on the back plate. Mine is 27-02- 1021 -2091, and has the new ESS 32-bit PRO ADC inside. The same chip that's in the RME ADI-2/4 Pro SE.
 
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khanhncm

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It's really easy to unscrew those spacers. But if you're simply curios about the ADC, look at the serial number on the back plate. Mine is 27-02- 1021 -2091, and has the new ESS 32-bit PRO ADC inside. The same chip that's in the RME ADI-2/4 Pro SE.
Yea, mine, 27-02-1222-0842. That's quite an information. Thank you, my friend. The quality is over my expectation, I really have no more urge to tear it down, now.

About those spacers. Just have to overcome some fearfulness, but I just can't make it, through.

EDIT: Oh my GOD, I've just seen the price of that RME....
 

*Cihan*

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I would like to use the interface to input an electric guitar and use PC as ampsim and listen from headphones. I don't have a desire to record. Do you think that getting ID14 could have any benefits over ID4 for me?
 

teashea

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I would like to use the interface to input an electric guitar and use PC as ampsim and listen from headphones. I don't have a desire to record. Do you think that getting ID14 could have any benefits over ID4 for me?
I think that the iD4 would be fine. But remember it does not have the iD software.
 
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