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ICEpower 200ASC Build

CMOT

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Feb 21, 2021
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I am planning to build a mono amplifier to drive a passive 12" subwoofer. I am thinking about a using an ICEpower 200ASC module and a Ghent case. Thoughts? Also can anyone point me to a step-by-step DYI guide for building such an amp (or at least the stereo version). I know the wiring harness will simplify things a lot, but I want to make sure I get the grounds right, etc. Also, I would like to retrofit the case to support a 12v trigger (which I think the ICEpower 200ASC supports). So any pointers to this addition would also be greatly appreciated.

thanks!
 

Adam_M

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Jul 23, 2020
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DIY is a lot of fun - but for a sub - I'd honestly just get a plate amp or a prosound external amp and call it a day. If you are DIY'ing the amp because you want the fun and pride of building it - then have at it and enjoy the project!
 
OP
C

CMOT

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Thanks. All the plate amps (my default) won't fit because they are too deep - there is a cross bracing in the cabinet that the old plate amp fit around. And a FusionAmp is really too expensive - was hoping to keep it < $250, which is possible with DYI ICE/Ghent. Or I could get an AudioSource or something, but that seems lame. So yea, mostly doing this for the fun of doing it....
 
OP
C

CMOT

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Hmm. Good pointer. Might go for the A800 - no fan, but similar power/price. No trigger though, but I can jury rig that I suspect...
 
OP
C

CMOT

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Figured I would close the loop on this. Ended up with the Ghent Case and Wiring plus the PartsExpress 200ASC board. My son finished soldering last night (he is much better at this than me...). Works fine, but two oddities

1) the toggle switch for the RCA/XLR is such that the wires from the RCA make sense with the switch in one orientation, but the actual labeling on the back of the case is the opposition orientation. So right now the toggle works in reverse as compared to the labels. Could easily wire it the opposite way but my son insisted on a cleaner wiring layout, which ended up with this reversal. Will just label over the etching - which I will never look at again.

2) Light on the switch isn't coming on. I am guessing something isn't seated correctly, but I don't care enough to reopen the case. In fact, since the amp sits in the back behind my subwoofer, it is probably better not to have the distracting blue glow back there.

3). I would also note that you need to run a signal from the + input to signal sense pin to have auto on from standby

Subwoofer was sealed with exactly milled MDF with binding posts. Tested it last night with the last 15 minutes of EndGame. Everything rumbled! So fun. And a nice project to revive a perfectly good 12" subwoofer!
 
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