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I will NEVER buy a neutral speaker again!

Toe-in affects room modes? Do you have measurements of this?
Found good measures, from when I was dialing things in to the last <1 foot placement spot. White noise because the floor is far more affected by it and music compared to sweeps.

White noise into RTA peak capture after 5 seconds (third red/peak update on the graph). Same system volume for each. Toed in to shoulder versus toed barely in, at ~9 feet from the speakers. Behind the sweet spot, but often used for listening for two people.

Variable smoothing, full range then 10-200, Toe in is the blue-ish one.

full toe in out suboptimal placement.jpg


Yes, the toed out is louder. More sound stays in the room.

10-200 toe in out suboptimal placement.jpg


Note the new peaks in the bass.

By contrast, here is the current position, in and out, with the "triangle" spot in green (same system volume, higher mike volume).

Edit to add this is 1/6 smoothing.

full toe in out current placement  vs triangle.jpg


Very similar peaks, red and blue.

Two things about the green. I had a window open behind the speakers, that gives me a drop off.

The 1700 thing? That's from my av/frankenHeresy v1 cabinets. Sound everywhere is easy to eq, but I really need some covers to tone that down!
 
Instead of this, If want to criticize what I wrote why not just do it? Or what exactly is this supposed to add to the thread?
I wasn't replying to you, Todd, it was directed at the trolly OP thread title.
 
I just finished this weekend a custom project for a friend, with a speaker that is deliberated tuned (in the dsp) to sound dark (low treble, a lot of bass, especially subbass) on his demand. I made it first clean neutral with the eq to start the tuning, but it was to bright to his taste, so i kept eqing to his taste.

And that is how it should be. This guy don't want speakers like here popular. He knows some of those, but did not find commercially what he wanted so he asked me to build a pair like he wants them. And it works, at least for him. That speaker won't work for +99% of the people here, but it works for him. The majority will prefer neutral or almost neutral speakers, a big minority like coloured systems, but it's a minority.

I think everybody should at least hear a few times a very neutral speaker to know what they want and don't want, and then you can deviate from there if you want that. I've worked as freelancer (audio and ICT) in various recording and broadcast studio's, from very ghetto style to national radio and tv (VRT in Belgium) and top level studio's so I know what neutral monitoring can be, but i also want a deviation from that at home to listen to music... (but not in a studio).
 
I think everybody should at least hear a few times a very neutral speaker to know what they want and don't want, and then you can deviate from there if you want that.
I agree but that may not be enough. If the listener is adapted to a decidedly non-neutral rendition, day in and day out, over a long time, it will generally be preferred to a neutral rendition tasted ocassionally. OTOH, it will be difficult to convince such a listener to force themself listening to a neutral system for a sufficient length of time to be re-adapted.
 
I just finished this weekend a custom project for a friend, with a speaker that is deliberated tuned (in the dsp) to sound dark (low treble, a lot of bass, especially subbass) on his demand. I made it first clean neutral with the eq to start the tuning, but it was to bright to his taste, so i kept eqing to his taste.

And that is how it should be. This guy don't want speakers like here popular. He knows some of those, but did not find commercially what he wanted so he asked me to build a pair like he wants them. And it works, at least for him. That speaker won't work for +99% of the people here, but it works for him. The majority will prefer neutral or almost neutral speakers, a big minority like coloured systems, but it's a minority.

I think everybody should at least hear a few times a very neutral speaker to know what they want and don't want, and then you can deviate from there if you want that. I've worked as freelancer (audio and ICT) in various recording and broadcast studio's, from very ghetto style to national radio and tv (VRT in Belgium) and top level studio's so I know what neutral monitoring can be, but i also want a deviation from that at home to listen to music... (but not in a studio).
Isn't this the basic interpretation of ASR: Most neutral/transparent as technically can be achieved, as basis for subsequent changes based on individually preference.
 
I agree but that may not be enough. If the listener is adapted to a decidedly non-neutral rendition, day in and day out, over a long time, it will generally be preferred to a neutral rendition tasted ocassionally. OTOH, it will be difficult to convince such a listener to force themself listening to a neutral system for a sufficient length of time to be re-adapted.

I don’t doubt that there is significant truth to the above. But just anecdotally, in my case, I’ve never adapted to a speaker that I didn’t like almost immediately. Whatever causes that fairly immediate impression it seems to be pretty sticky.
 
It's not a like/dislike issue. One pair is enough, because neutral is neutral in my book.

Now, if I ran a second set of speakers in the same room, but at a different location, I would want a different dispersion pattern most likely. And I am sure I could get a bit better attack with compression drivers. I'm not saying there are NO differences between neutral speakers. Just that spending money to get such slight differences doesn't make sense for me. And that I have no desire to further explore how neutral speakers sound in my room.

Well I suppose I could sympathize with that. I don't like perfect speakers because there is nothing for me to DSP with :) Buy something perfect out of the box, where is the fun in that?
 
I agree but that may not be enough. If the listener is adapted to a decidedly non-neutral rendition, day in and day out, over a long time, it will generally be preferred to a neutral rendition tasted ocassionally. OTOH, it will be difficult to convince such a listener to force themself listening to a neutral system for a sufficient length of time to be re-adapted.
not true in my case at least, i work for years weekly now with a pair of Genelec 8030C's (for radio broadcast), and mixed a lot of stuff in a studio with Klein & Hummel O310A's (the direct ancestor of the Neuman KH310), so i should know... But i still prefer coloured speakers and amps in a lot of cases. And i'm surely not the only one with a lot of pro audio studio experience who is like that.
 
Toe-in affects room modes? Do you have measurements of this?

My room is actually two rooms with partial walls, and connects to other spaces in the house. Lots of angles. If I point the speakers to the "short corners" I get boost at 60, long corners more like 90. If I point them more "out" of the main listening space (direct or more first reflections into the other parts of the first floor and upstairs), things change again.

Hi,
Toe-in could affect energizing room modes if:
- toe-in changes position of the driver, iow rotation axis is not at the driver
- speaker has directivity at room sized wavelengths, which happens if it is physically very big, or has pattern control being some dipole or cardioid system.

Small monopole speaker have no directivity on room sized wavelengths, so toe-in has no effect on how modes measure at listening position. Just because the modes are due to room dimensions, at wavelengths size of the room, and the speaker is much smaller. Only way to change how bad peaks/dips measure is to move the speakers or the mic to another location.

If one observes modes changing with toe-in with small monopole, perhaps it is through some secondary effect like the speaker being over a floor joist or something, vibrating the floor differently, which might emit the sound and affect how room modes energize. Perhaps effect of modes are still the same, but measurement mic stand conducts vibration from floor to mic. Some mics have great "handling noise".
 
But just anecdotally, in my case, I’ve never adapted to a speaker that I didn’t like almost immediately. Whatever causes that fairly immediate impression it seems to be pretty sticky.
First impressions are powerful, and color all subsequent impressions.

For me, most changes in gear evaluated with an A/B switch (or just by ear) leave me with, "I like this part more on A, but this other part less." I think that focusing on different things at different times, mids and vocals, bass, how high the treble extends, have avoided that immediate dislike reaction. So for three amps, I might like the detail on one (D) the tone on another (A/B), and the huge but fuzzy sound stage on another (vintage A).

Full on dislike takes longer, and I only have one pair of speakers that fall to this level for music. But they work fine for the boom/crash/zoom as surrounds in my 5.1.


Hi,
Toe-in could affect energizing room modes if:
- toe-in changes position of the driver, iow rotation axis is not at the driver
- speaker has directivity at room sized wavelengths, which happens if it is physically very big, or has pattern control being some dipole or cardioid system.

Small monopole speaker have no directivity on room sized wavelengths, so toe-in has no effect on how modes measure at listening position. Just because the modes are due to room dimensions, at wavelengths size of the room, and the speaker is much smaller. Only way to change how bad peaks/dips measure is to move the speakers or the mic to another location.

If one observes modes changing with toe-in with small monopole, perhaps it is through some secondary effect like the speaker being over a floor joist or something, vibrating the floor differently, which might emit the sound and affect how room modes energize. Perhaps effect of modes are still the same, but measurement mic stand conducts vibration from floor to mic. Some mics have great "handling noise".

Thanks for that, I found it quite informative. If I had some dipoles I would experiment.

Frequency sweeps in REW don't show this effect very clearly, so what you say does apply in ways I can see. There is a slight difference between 256 and 512 sampling, but nothing changes above that. To get at what the floor does, I need white noise. Or a wider sine wave than REW uses that ascends and descends fairly slowly, which does capture much of the effect.

There is some difference if the speaker stands are on top of a floor joist or between them. Not a lot, not enough that I worry about it, but that does change how energy goes into and out of the stands/floor.

It makes sense to me that if we line up speakers along a diagonal corner, more energy will get into that standing wave. Non-corner alignment changes that. Sub placement is a good example, corner placements act differently than other placements in a room. Maybe in a sealed room this would not have the same effect, but my room is not sealed.

The issue is my bouncy floor, and how quickly it starts to bounce. Different toe in angles change how quickly that happens due to more or less sound escaping the listening space, and more or less corner reinforcement that speeds or slows the bounce.



Well I suppose I could sympathize with that. I don't like perfect speakers because there is nothing for me to DSP with :)

I was very happy to get things right (for me). I am also very happy that Wiim now has separate channel PEQ, because it gives me a chance to do more DSP. I get deep satisfaction from making things work better, in all things.

Tuning a system is an end in itself in some ways, but mostly it's a means to the end of getting lost in the music.
 
Instead of this, If want to criticize what I wrote why not just do it? Or what exactly is this supposed to add to the thread?
There is nothing wrong with neutral speakers as a starting point. It is pointed out that selecting speakers based on a preferred spectral response is a VERY expensive way to get what one prefers. If one begins at neutral and adjusts the spectrum to their preference, all is good. DSP can produce almost anything (within the potential of the speakers) even on those that are not neutral.

See my tag line below...
 
I suspect whatever your room is doing is in the time domain because just rotating a speaker 10 or 20 degrees isn't going to cause 10-15db swings in the room modes that your graphs seemed to show. I have 30" wide bass horns that don't exhibit that much swing if I switch between say 20 and 30 degrees of toe-in. Also make sure you are measuring at reasonable level i.e. 70-80db at listening position. Hope this helps somehow.
 
I suspect whatever your room is doing is in the time domain because just rotating a speaker 10 or 20 degrees isn't going to cause 10-15db swings in the room modes that your graphs seemed to show. I have 30" wide bass horns that don't exhibit that much swing if I switch between say 20 and 30 degrees of toe-in. Also make sure you are measuring at reasonable level i.e. 70-80db at listening position. Hope this helps somehow.

I can and have replicated these measures many times, so they are reliable. And given my room, I am as sure as I can be they are valid.

You need to keep in mind not just room modes, as you are thinking about them. You also have to consider what I call my "floor modes". With increasing SPL, the floor modes start to spike more and more.

So let's just assume that volume has no effect on conventional room modes, at sufficient SPL, for sake of argument. That sweep measures will be stable, which they mostly are in my measurement history. If so, why do these white noise measures change so much by volume?

It could be measurement error.

However, the floor does bounce. As SPL goes up, I can feel the floor move, then keep moving when it can't shed energy anymore. As I go louder, the vibrations in my feet will go from surface of my foot then start moving up higher and higher in my foot. That seems to indicate increasing movement.

Have I put an accelerometer on the floor? No. But at a very specific volume I can feel a difference in floor movement in front of my seating area compared to behind. There is an architectural reason this happens (my floor is kind of "pinned" by a couch and a post under the couch in the basement) With another 2.5db, the vibrations behind catch up. So with higher SPL I can track how my floor movement propagates and grows pretty well.

Also, I can hear the distortion as the floor modes spike.

So look at those graphs again. Those spikes that make no sense to you are LITERALLY from my floor bouncing sound up towards the very reflective ceiling. Which is one reason the modes grow so fast. The floor to ceiling bounce creates a lot of vertical standing waves. The resonance between the floor and ceiling reinforces the floor movement.

Any EQ in this room based only on sweeps will be wrong, and get more wrong with increased volume.

It is hard to convey just how much my floor moves. There is a volume where white noise measurements are "best", which is at a level where the floor modes just start to kick in enough to even out the bass more than at lower or higher volumes. That's about 60db at 10 feet. If I go +2.5db higher, the spikes from the floor start to jump. Earlier this year I was running white noise at that level, and my 8 lb cat jumped from the seat of a chair to the floor. At that moment, 30hz jumped 10-15db.

So for my room, assume the floor is a drum. Or a passive radiator. Then the measurements start to make a lot more sense.
 
A drum for a floor, everyone knows you need a cello for a floor,
Vibrate does not equal audible resonance.
Keith
 
Then you need to fix the floor, any speaker with bass will cause problems if your floor is not solid and vibrate with the bass.
So, jack up the house, add a new beam in the basement + replace two posts on the current beam that will likely be too short with the raised floor, then repair all the 100 year old plaster that cracks, and replace the floating engineered wood top layer which won't fit anymore. Plus potentially create plumbing and electrical issues.

Yes, that would work. It makes no sense given the value of the house, but it would work. It would likely be cheaper or at least no more expensive to build a room as an addition on a slab, and design it as a listening room from scratch.

I've done enough to get it to work at the volumes I listen at. Decay times <400ms, THD in room under 1%, exact levels volume dependent but the 400ms/1% lines are for my loudest normal play (loud enough that a full work day at that level requires hearing protection to avoid damage). I can have smaller sound stage and very accurate, or I can have a huge sound stage at higher SPL. Would I like better? Sure, but this works in that I don't have problems that continuously bother me. In the past, I had a lot that bothered me.

Life would be a lot easier with a concrete slab.
 
So, jack up the house, add a new beam in the basement + replace two posts on the current beam that will likely be too short with the raised floor, then repair all the 100 year old plaster that cracks, and replace the floating engineered wood top layer which won't fit anymore. Plus potentially create plumbing and electrical issues.

Yes, that would work. It makes no sense given the value of the house, but it would work. It would likely be cheaper or at least no more expensive to build a room as an addition on a slab, and design it as a listening room from scratch.

I've done enough to get it to work at the volumes I listen at. Decay times <400ms, THD in room under 1%, exact levels volume dependent but the 400ms/1% lines are for my loudest normal play (loud enough that a full work day at that level requires hearing protection to avoid damage). I can have smaller sound stage and very accurate, or I can have a huge sound stage at higher SPL. Would I like better? Sure, but this works in that I don't have problems that continuously bother me. In the past, I had a lot that bothered me.

Life would be a lot easier with a concrete slab.
Just put your speakers on magnetic lifters to decouple from the floor.
 
Have you the plots which demonstrate the addition of the floor?
Keith
 
Just put your speakers on magnetic lifters to decouple from the floor.
I have not tried magnetic, but I have tried isolators to decouple. I am currently using Sorbothane and I have carefully matched those to the weight on them for each unit. They have some measurable benefit above the bass region. Not huge, but measurable.

Trying these out is part of how I figured out why they are doomed to fail in the bass for me. Isolators do a good job side to side, but in the vertical plane they do nothing. And since my floor starts to bounce, literally, the room sound goes into the floor eventually leading to bouncing the speaker up and down.

I also considered hanging speakers from the ceiling. That is a non-starter for the living room. For some odd reason.
 
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