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I love the Svs 1000 pro at a decent price plus extra for feets.

Frankly though my Buchardt s400 handle enough bass for my taste, I got the Svs for movies. It is a keeper thanks to the ability to tune the Svs to my room using the app from the listening position. This makes it so easy to hear your result that you will get the best possible outcome.

Perhaps I think.
 
The SVS SB1000 is still available in the Netherlands for a pretty low price (529 euros). It lacks the filters of the rather more expensive (750 euros) SB1000 Pro, but I would prefer to have the filters separately anyway, and particularly when using multiple subs for best results. For that Multi Sub Optimizer and a miniDSP 2x4 HD is ideal.
 
Neumann kh750 seems to be good regardless of pairing monitors. It may be worth paying extra for.
the problem is not the performance, its the price and what you get for it. For 1500 € you can have at least 2x well build DIY Subs with more Cabinet volume. You dont need high end drivers for an good lowend. Its the placement and DSP & Setup Implementation. For the budget, you can buy something like a GRS 12SW-4 chassi (40€ per unit), bigger MDF cabinets and can plan an Array / Multi Sub solution ( wich is not realy possible with the Neumanns) and have completly the setup freedom with an external DSP. Its not the quality of the neumann sub wich makes it little bit unatractive imo compared to DIY, its the price & the limitations, because of to the smaller size. 1500€ for an ~50L Cabinet, 10ˋˋ, 256W is not on the cheap side. For someone who wants the Neumann ,,ecosystem,, you still only have this choice, wich is also for me ridiculous after all this years that they have just one compact sub for MA1, but wanted to makes steps into the Home Cinema Area with Multi Channel / Atmos Room Correction where you often need way more volume & power... 5 years and just one small DSP Subwoofer is a little bit sad
 
Hi, it's been a while!
I would like to thank the people who made this project possible on a scale never before imagined in South Korea. I measured a total of 10 subwoofers, including my own DIY subwoofer(L26RO4Y), and measured them to the CEA-2010 standard using a Klippel TBM module. Below are photos and a list of the subwoofers I measured.

View attachment 321682

(In order from left to right)

- Arendal 1961 1V

- Arendal 1961 1S

- Neumann KH750

- Bowers & Wilkins DB4S

- SVS SB-3000

- SVS SB-2000 pro

- SVS SB-1000 pro

- Polk audio PSW111

- My DIY Subwoofer

- SVS 3000 micro

This is officially the first time CEA-2010 has been measured in South Korea.
So there was a lot of trial and error, which took a lot of time.
And for the products that were not loaded enough, I did a second measurement under slightly harsher conditions with the owner's permission, and added data.

View attachment 321681
View attachment 321680

With that out of the way, let's get down to business, releasing data starting with the SVS SB-1000 pro model.
All subsequent data will be presented in the same format, with the only difference being the product name.

As I'll explain later, there are a lot of variables in active subwoofers, so it's not possible to compare products on a fixed basis.

SVS SB-1000 pro


View attachment 321683


-21.2dBu means that we measured with an input of 80dB SPL@2m (100Hz) and an output of 80dB SPL@2m (100Hz).
(I state this because it can vary depending on the volume and gain knob settings on the product).

THD
View attachment 321684View attachment 321685View attachment 321686View attachment 321687

Group delay
View attachment 321688View attachment 321689

ETC
View attachment 321690

Measure the attenuation level for 100ms after the peak (0dBFS).
Higher attenuation is considered ideal.

View attachment 321691

Now it's finally time to measure the TBM module. First, let's take a moment to explain how the TBM module works.

The TBM module measures a preset frequency, one cycle for each voltage, gradually increasing the voltage. If the THD value of the measured signal exceeds the threshold, it moves on to the next frequency. In other words, if you measure 20 Hz and the THD crosses the threshold, you move on to the next measured frequency, 25 Hz.

This is where the start voltage and maximum voltage settings become very important. The reason for this is that if you make the measurement too harsh, you risk damaging certain products, and if you make it too soft, you lose discrimination between products. Unfortunately, since I had to measure 10 subwoofers in one day with a lot of trial and error, I couldn't find the optimal measurement level for each product.

Therefore, I only set the minimum input gain and SPL for each product, and then replicated the rest of the conditions and measurement module settings.
So keep in mind that what may seem like an advantage for some products may not work for others.

However, please understand that we had to take this conservative approach because protecting the product is our number one priority.

View attachment 321695

The following introduces the THD thresholds for each frequency in this module.

According to the CEA-2010B standard, there are different THD thresholds for each frequency.

The two thresholds above indicate that,
If you don't intuitively understand what this means, it means that there are different values of acceptable THD for each measurement frequency!

In other words, at lower frequency measurements, we're more forgiving, but as we move to higher frequencies, we get stricter about THD.

And this applies as follows

View attachment 321696

If the THD of the measured signal is all below the threshold, the corresponding frequency measurement is PASS!

View attachment 321697

If any of them touch the threshold, that measurement will FAIL!

And if it fails, then we just move on to the next frequency measurement,
We have a threshold level, called [Neglect Threshold Below], that determines if we should try to resume the measurement with a higher voltage.

For this measurement, it doesn't matter much because I mostly set this value equal to the maximum voltage.
In other words, even if it fails, it tries to increase the level unconditionally up to the preset value.

Peak Value
View attachment 321692


If you've never seen this plot before, you might be confused.
Basically, the more closely spaced the frequencies, the better the effective bandwidth, and the straighter the line, the better the output.

However, each subwoofer has a different preset output value from the manufacturer, so it's not a perfect comparison.

View attachment 321693

View attachment 321694


Looking at this data, you should see some of the PASS! and FAIL! we discussed earlier.


The orange ones at relatively low voltages are the ones where background noise has crossed the THD threshold, so if you see green values at higher outputs, you can ignore anything below that.
(This is where the sophisticated 'Neglect Threshold below' setting comes in).


The first thing to look at is the top green value for each frequency.
That's the maximum output of that subwoofer, at least for the current measurement.

But that's not all.

Each measured signal increases by exactly 1 dB,
There are many instances where the actual measured SPL value is less than 1 dB, even at frequencies where a passing score is achieved.

In other words, the THD didn't touch the threshold in the 2010B standard, but it was already eating up compression in the lower range.

This is where you need to be proactive in your interpretation of each product.

View attachment 321698

View attachment 321699


The maximum voltage that the product can accept in the current measurement setup.
(More precisely, the voltage it can take within the limits of its normal output.)


View attachment 321700

THD% at the PASSed point for each frequency.

View attachment 321701



THD% by output.
Each frequency is color coded.

I hope you enjoy these measurements.
I'll leave you with the data for the remaining nine subwoofers in order, along with their names.



+++++

I apologize for not attaching a more detailed description and evaluation of the data and plots.

do you think back-to-back design like svs 3000micro or dynaudio 18s have a big advantage in the home environment in terms of reducing vibration ?
 
Wow ! My girlfriend was telling me I should go to sleep now. That's not planned for now !
Thanks a lot ! (Arendal 1961 1V powaaaaaaa)
Sadly now discontinued. The available 1723 models are significantly more expensive.:(
 
max recommended SPL through frequency range based on distortion.png

Amazing work from everyone (especially @Nuyes obviously)
Can I just ask on the two graphs above, please. The top one seems to indicate that the two Arendals are best for low end extension, while the second one seems to indicate that the Neumann and B&W are best. What am I misunderstanding about the way they're both presented?
Thanks
 
Amazing work from everyone (especially @Nuyes obviously)
Can I just ask on the two graphs above, please. The top one seems to indicate that the two Arendals are best for low end extension, while the second one seems to indicate that the Neumann and B&W are best. What am I misunderstanding about the way they're both presented?
Thanks
First graph are FR measurements, second is overall metric one. DIY and KH750 are DSP-ed. Mid 30 Hz SPL is what you need and that everything else is not bad.
 
What am I misunderstanding about the way they're both presented?
First graph plots max SPL vs frequency (it's not frequency response)

Second graph ranks stock frequency response extension.

If you were to use the subs without any sort of EQ, then the Low extension plotted in the second graph would be valuable.

But that would be pretty wasteful as far as utilizing subs properly is concerned.
 
Thanks - I didn’t spot the SPL label, not paying proper attention here!
I am trying to get the best reach down low for a rig that cannot have DSP for music (although it’s fine to use it for films) so I think I will be on the lookout for a 2nd hand Arendal 1961 1S. Such a shame they’ve discontinued it
 
Thanks - I didn’t spot the SPL label, not paying proper attention here!
I am trying to get the best reach down low for a rig that cannot have DSP for music (although it’s fine to use it for films) so I think I will be on the lookout for a 2nd hand Arendal 1961 1S. Such a shame they’ve discontinued it
What kind of the rig is that?
 
DJing - it can't have any delay because beat-matching becomes an issue
You can get around it by having a pair of monitors on the DJ rig, of course, but that's a whole other set of expenses too.
Then DIY is probably your best option. Bumped on this two days ago.
And there are two packs. If you aren't into it, find someone who is to make boxes, plug them into PA and mix. Costs you less then one deacent PA one and does better than any HiFi or PA.
 
Then DIY is probably your best option. Bumped on this two days ago.
And there are two packs. If you aren't into it, find someone who is to make boxes, plug them into PA and mix. Costs you less then one deacent PA one and does better than any HiFi or PA.
I have space constraints as well, and DIY is not an option for several other reasons - time being one key issue.
 
I have space constraints as well, and DIY is not an option for several other reasons - time being one key issue.
You can buy already built DIY subwoofers for little money on the ebays of this world. Some guys take real pride building them and it still will cost less than 50% of such Arendal.

On the other hand: i bought a Dayton DIY subcabinet kit. I got some woodglue and some tape. Put that kit together in little over an hour. Let it dry for 12. Add another 30 for installing driver, wool, connection and voila. Ready to go.

Being a DJ myself having owned good subs like SVS take it from me: DIY passive sub blows most very expensive actives out of the water. They will improve your show immensely. @ZolaIII gives good advice.
 
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