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I made a custom low-profile balanced XLR adapter for my Schiit Stack. Just wanted to share!

Quinton595

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Apr 6, 2024
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Hello everyone,

I have a Modius E and Jotunheim 2 stack, and although low-profile XLR connectors already exist on the market for a lot of Schiit stacks, they don't cover this specific paring, and its offset plugs.

I quickly made a walnut Z, cut a top off it, and hollowed out the inside with some forstner bits, then drilled the holes to accept some Neutrik XLR plugs. Put a few coats of Tung oil on, wired everything up with some 20 Ga. wire, and it works perfectly!

It's never really going to be seen, being up against a wall and all, so this was just some rough-and-tumble carpentry, with little care paid to the fit and finish.

Still, I saved myself about four or five inches of depth over the shortest pair of XLR interconnects out there. The whole thing takes up less than two inches of depth, so I can keep my units right up against the wall now. Just gotta find a low-profile power plug to match.

In the future, I'm going to use the same approach to make a matching 4-Pin XLR to TRS plug, so I can use my Sennheiser HD800s in a balanced way.


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Thank you! Without a CNC, though, they're not up to the level of quality I'd want if I were to sell them. I could slow down and make them nicer manually, but it wouldn't be cost-effective then. Hopefully, it just serves as a quick dimensional guide / inspiration for someone else who might find themselves in a similar situation.
 
I like this! I considered making something similar, but with RCA connectors, for my Topping D50s/A50s as the cables sticking out the back are half as deep as the units themselves.
 
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That’s a very neat and novel solution,
 
Wow. That's a slick solution. Nice woodwork! Kudos.
My only suggestions would be maybe using black screws for the cover. And perhaps, perhaps not twisting the signal leads.
It's such a short run twisting may not be needed. But currently your signal leads are not shielded... No need to add the ground to the twist.

I really like that your design eliminates the back shells for reduced depth. I wouldn't have thought of that!
 
Wow. That's a slick solution. Nice woodwork! Kudos.
My only suggestions would be maybe using black screws for the cover. And perhaps, perhaps not twisting the signal leads.
It's such a short run twisting may not be needed. But currently your signal leads are not shielded... No need to add the ground to the twist.

I really like that your design eliminates the back shells for reduced depth. I wouldn't have thought of that!
Thank you! And Yeah, I wasn't thrilled about having to twist them, but it's unavoidable. The male xlr pinout is, naturally, the mirror reflection of the female, so pins 1 and 3 are on opposite sides. The twist is inescapable.

I'm gonna swap the screws for some brass ones when I get some :)
 
What I meant was you want to twist them...
Ohhh wow, you just brought back a grade-11 understanding of the right-hand rule of electromagnetic induction i forgot I had. You're right, we twist things to CANCEL interference, not create it.... hmm.
 
Yes, that's what I meant.
It doesn't so much cancel as provide the opportunity to reject common mode interference at balanced inputs.
But we're talking about maybe 3.5 inches?
So you're probably fine.
 
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