I hate my new subwoofer for certain low frequency

[Pogre]

The front left speaker output leaks noise. It's loud, we're talking 85db+. My best guess, that power stage is toast, leaking DC even on mute, nothing connected to the AVR.

Why do I have the feeling that you cranked up the mains levels and maxed out the volume with nothing playing just to see if you could hear some noise..?

 

[tjtremor]

Why do I have the feeling that you cranked up the mains levels and maxed out the volume with nothing playing just to see if you could hear some noise..?

nop, AVR on mute, connect the speaker to that channel and it's 85db+ of noise

no big deal it's really old / kinda expected outcome, honestly I always wanted usb dac + dedicated amp; trying to move away from the AVRs

I'll see in the future (clean-up , move stuff around) then I will be able to place the subs better.

 

[Slayer]

The plug no plug, rug thing honestly it makes 0 difference at normal volume.

It does move the tuning from 30hz where there's good output to something lower like 22hz where there's less output.
I'm not going to measure it but It basically gives less driver distortions around 30hz.
The included plug will add more distortions around 30hz

Ok, all jokes aside, may I make a suggestion, please go back and read through the suggestions given in this thread You started.

 

[MusicNBeer]

@tjtremor, I agree you are underpowered. I have two M10 v2 subs in a room about half as large as yours. Port noise is zero issue for me.

I contacted Monoprice today about the tick/buzz/rattle whatever, that occurs 50 Hz and below on my units. Are you sure this isn't what you're hearing? It's not hard to hear with test tones.

 

[Pogre]

nop, AVR on mute, connect the speaker to that channel and it's 85db+ of noise

no big deal it's really old / kinda expected outcome, honestly I always wanted usb dac + dedicated amp; trying to move away from the AVRs

I'll see in the future (clean-up , move stuff around) then I will be able to place the subs better.

The plug no plug, rug thing honestly it makes 0 difference at normal volume.

Really old?? A SR6015? That's the newest Marantz 6*** series model!

How did you determine 85 dB of noise?

I think you need to seriously read through this forum and clear up the many misconceptions you seem to have about audio and what really matters when it comes to sound quality. Right now you're so far out in left field I really, seriously think you might be beyond help. Not if you continue with this line of reasoning and logic, and keep ignoring everyone's advice and suggestions.

You know, it's really disheartening to offer advice and suggestions to someone who's asking for help only to see it all ignored...

 

[tjtremor]

Really old?? A SR6015? That's the newest Marantz 6*** series model!

How did you determine 85 dB of noise?

I think you need to seriously read through this forum and clear up the many misconceptions you seem to have about audio and what really matters when it comes to sound quality. Right now you're so far out in left field I really, seriously think you might be beyond help. Not if you continue with this line of reasoning and logic, and keep ignoring everyone's advice and suggestions.

You know, it's really disheartening to offer advice and suggestions to someone who's asking for help only to see it all ignored...

hehe no worries, I did read everything that was posted here
If it wasn't for you guys I would of prob never put my 12" sub back due to room size; so that helped alot for low end music / movies

as far as AVR calibration & moving subs around that I can't do for now

it's the sr605 it's 10+years old by now

 

[tjtremor]

@tjtremor, I agree you are underpowered. I have two M10 v2 subs in a room about half as large as yours. Port noise is zero issue for me.

I contacted Monoprice today about the tick/buzz/rattle whatever, that occurs 50 Hz and below on my units. Are you sure this isn't what you're hearing? It's not hard to hear with test tones.

I'll check again with the tone generator at low volume. I don't think I have any issues like that.
Around -10db to -20db from THX reference levels for movies with low freq, the port is noisy.

The video I recorded on first page for example for port noise.

One of the EQ Is the problem (THX) seem to add a good +20db right around the port tuning freq which generates excessive turbulence, back pressure on the cone.

What I can gather from using it(I'm a sub noob) for 1 week and looking at the driver distortions REW,Charts is that I'm 100% certain that you're not suppose to use this thing with port open + THX EQ, it will damage the driver.

EXT + Port Open or
THX + Sealed

 

[JRS]

@JRS The rough problem of chuffing and air noise in general isn't in the bulk channel, it's at the edges, and specifically at the mouth where the pistonic volume interfaces with unmoving room air. Generally the best way of mitigating this (beyond using a bigger port area in the first place) is to round off your port ends, reducing the velocity as the cross-sectional area expands, and increasing the effective interface area. The horn-like flare of a Precision Port is the natural extension (pun somewhat intended) of this. The obvious downside is that this is additional space eaten out of cabinet volume that does not act as effective port; it's also more complex to make and takes up more exterior room on the cabinet face.

The Monoprice cutaways show the port is moderately rounded at both ends already.

Another real-world fix is to ensure any higher-frequency port noise is just not pointed at the listener, with the idea the HF noise is going to be radiated less. This doesn't work in the OP's case of playing test tones with one's face / mic right at the front of the sub, but in an actual room, you may mitigate this by just rotating the subwoofer. You don't want it pointing at too close a nearby wall / subwoofer or you're effectively just making a longer port.

Usually when you see designs do strange things with the bulk channel of the port it's to try to control port resonance, or to prevent other higher frequencies already in the cabinet from escaping out the port (generally not an issue in a sub.)

Flares help, and should be on both ends for max benefit. I would agree that the problem starts at the discontinuity, but by the time one hears it, it is almost certainly a through and through issue. So anyhow just a thought I might be worth looking into as slot loading is usually a best guess (but effective when right). PR's are the cats meow but pricey. Anyhow it would be worth trying to visualize--looked thru YouTube saw nothing.

 

[formula 977]

Russia?

 

[MusicNBeer]

Flares help, and should be on both ends for max benefit. I would agree that the problem starts at the discontinuity, but by the time one hears it, it is almost certainly a through and through issue. So anyhow just a thought I might be worth looking into as slot loading is usually a best guess (but effective when right). PR's are the cats meow but pricey. Anyhow it would be worth trying to visualize--looked thru YouTube saw nothing.

They are flared at both ends but not big flares like the precision ports.

 

[MusicNBeer]

Russia?

Wrong forum me thinks

 

[JRS]

They are flared at both ends but not big flares like the precision ports.

May not be the fix. It will help, but the fix in your case is displacement, for which there is no replacement. Displacement is the stroke of the motor x the surface area of the radiating diaphragm--not exactly but about 0.2 x 3.14 x diameter ^2. The important part is that it is proportional to the square of the woofer diameter, meaning that one 15" is as good or better than two tens for sheer output. Taming room resonances is another story--here the two tens would likely be better. Everybody here agrees that 4000 cu' needs the equivalent of 2 fifteens (for films, high impact music), so you could buy two more twelves and likely get by (depending on the stroke of the woofer) or 3 more tens, or....

That's always the problem with bass--high quality and high output gets expensive and takes up real estate. The good news here is that once you have made the investment you are good to go for the indefinite future. The main speakers you upgrade to won't have to be the top of the line as the differentiating factor is usually LF response (which you already have). This allows for much more flexibility in the future, as you won't be needing to swap out gorilla coffins and instead focus on truly stunning reproduction from 45Hz on up--a considerably easier task that can be handled by fine stand mount speakers as well as towers.

 

[Pogre]

hehe no worries, I did read everything that was posted here
If it wasn't for you guys I would of prob never put my 12" sub back due to room size; so that helped alot for low end music / movies

as far as AVR calibration & moving subs around that I can't do for now

it's the sr605 it's 10+years old by now

A SR605? I misread. I thought you were saying you had a Marantz SR6015 and that it was old... lol.

Is that an old Onkyo? Either way age doesn't necessarily mean there will be issues. How did you determine 85 dB of noise? You've said that a couple of times but not once mentioned your methodology or how you arrived at that conclusion. How did you measure it? Can you hear noise over whatever you're playing?

Either way based on your responses you seem to have many misconceptions and ideas. I think you need to switch gears and get your basics sorted out. A new receiver wouldn't be a bad start if you have a channel out.