I can hear my PC think through my speakers

[Sokel]

That's wild. I'd want to make sure that there isn't some sort of input monitoring active, including on the onboard audio.

Wilder,onboard audio was never enabled in that PC,it was disabled in BIOS right from the start,same with Windows sounds,etc,the works.
The machine was suppose to do only audio.

It was so funny to hear it and immediately go silent the moment you hit play with ASIO playback.
10 years ago of course,I expect things to be better now.

 

[somebodyelse]

IIUC that device is SPDIF transmitter, not receiver, for capturing the onboard-generated SPDIF signal.

https://www.cubilux.com/products/ucstr-b3-usb-a-to-spdif-input-output-2-in-1-converter
"This converter supports high-resolution sound up to 192KHz/24-bit for both input and output audio signals."

 

[Jarrett]

How did this thread get to be 8 pages?

Just get the Topping HS01 model, it's much cheaper than the HS02

 

[Sokel]

How did this thread get to be 8 pages?

Just get the Topping HS01 model, it's much cheaper than the HS02

There are reports about failed ones due to excessive heat.

 

[Jarrett]

There are reports about failed ones due to excessive heat.

Mine does run warm. I've had it going on two years out my desktop PC (w/ Corsair RM550x) with the E30.

Is this one of those threads where the creator ends up justifying x, y, z need instead of getting help? HS01 absolutely helped the noise problem in my setup. Solved it about 80%.

Only things I tried prior to getting mine was a new surge protector (wanted a more compact one anyway) and better wall wart for the E30. During this change too I also built a completely new computer and it didn't make all that much difference to my surprise.

 

[DEF]

Running the automatic TOSLINK switcher now. https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B0D45GY575

192kHz is no issue. Switching takes like 1 to 2s of playing sound elsewhere.
Better than pick up the remote and switch signal.

Actually that means after that time of silence, it switches, too. I will need to use fixed mode. No more automatic.

 

[Verig]

I just want my pc to stop blasting it's coil whine into my speakers. How that's done I prefur it to be a cheapish solution. Why it's still a problem with pc-dac interaction idk. We solved so much of the basic problem in audio.
Big clean power is a thing, DACs with balanced outputs are "only" €200, easy streaming is cheap thanks to wiim.
But hooking up a dac to a pc will cause problems in the audible band ‍

Your PC should not make any "coil whine" type of noise. And most definitely any audible noise from the PC should not translate to noise from speakers.
I'm not sure why we're considering USB to be the culprit here.
And then you mention a tube amp where changing taps makes noise go half down?

Have you tried disconnecting everything from your PC? Even display if you have to. And remove any extension power cords / blocks. Just plug in your PC alone into a wall socket and see if the noise is still the same. If no more whine, go from there.

 

[Verig]

I've been making and listening to music with a PC since nineties. I've never considered that USB would need an isolator when the problem is this bad. Something is broken here.

 

[DEF]

I've been making and listening to music with a PC since nineties. I've never considered that USB would need an isolator when the problem is this bad. Something is broken here.

But look, it gives us a good feeling.
Now we can isolate USB and go from there via optical S/PDIF (Toslink) and it's not possible for anything to affect at the source.
We can go further in using a balanced setup for the headphones.

But for interference: Smartphones emit a strong signal when receiving a call, which speakers may still pick up

 

[Verig]

I'm very feely here.

Seriously though. No source should work like this. I'd rather go component by component and see where this is coming from. It's not "pc" or "usb" issue.
And balanced should never be needed at home. Sure, this is a hobby, why not if you want (or have a mansion size home theater etc.), but an actual need should never rise this way.

 

[DLS79]

I'm very feely here.

Seriously though. No source should work like this. I'd rather go component by component and see where this is coming from. It's not "pc" or "usb" issue.
And balanced should never be needed at home. Sure, this is a hobby, why not if you want (or have a mansion size home theater etc.), but an actual need should never rise this way.

The Op's primary issue looks to be because none of his gear is plugged into grounded sockets.


If balanced is needed at home likely depends on what kind of setup you are running.

For example I'm working my way towards a home set up of the following:

• Workstation
• 4 displays: two 27", 13", 55"
• Dac
• Amp
• interface
• 2 7" speakers
• card reader
• colorimeter
• numerous other usb ports for part time devices like phone charging external HD etc

I'm personally hyper organized and anal about cable runs (to the point I've laid everything out in cad) so separating all the power and data cables isn't an issue.

Your average person though ends up with a rats nest of cables that can cause all kinds of emi issues. Some random internet examples (I've seen far worse than these in person).

 

[dlovesmusic]

I have had the exact same ground loop issue. A hum x fixed it.

https://a.co/d/ijXvsGk

 

[DLS79]

I have had the exact same ground loop issue. A hum x fixed it.

https://a.co/d/ijXvsGk

It looks like that thing requires a grounded socket to work properly.

 

[Verig]

@DLS79 Your setup is similar to mine. Photography and audio. This is the reason I said it's not "usb or pc" problem, I'm sure your set works fine and mine does too.

 

[DEF]

The Op's primary issue looks to be because none of his gear is plugged into grounded sockets.


If balanced is needed at home likely depends on what kind of setup you are running.

For example I'm working my way towards a home set up of the following:

• Workstation
• 4 displays: two 27", 13", 55"
• Dac
• Amp
• interface
• 2 7" speakers
• card reader
• colorimeter
• numerous other usb ports for part time devices like phone charging external HD etc

I'm personally hyper organized and anal about cable runs (to the point I've laid everything out in cad) to separating all the power and data cables isn't an issue.

Your average person though ends up with a rats nest of cables that can cause all kinds of emi issues. Some random internet examples (I've seen far worse than these in person).

OH MY GOOD THIS IS AWFUL.

Just get some clamps on the table lol.

https://0x0.st/XgV6.png

Btw, there are 2 laptops connected and 1 desktop PC

 

[DLS79]

OH MY GOOD THIS IS AWFUL.

Btw, there are 2 laptops connected and 1 desktop PC

Those aren't my setups, I'd slowly go crazy just knowing it was like that.

I have a higher end 3d printer so I've designed a lot of custom mounts for stuff.

 

[DEF]

Those aren't my setups, I'd slowly go crazy just knowing it was like that.

I have a higher end 3d printer so I've designed a lot of custom mounts for stuff.

Gimme gimme gimme
And of course make every cable yourself haha

 

[Soniclife]

The Op's primary issue looks to be because none of his gear is plugged into grounded sockets.

Maybe, but I had this and all UK sockets are earthed, a cheap usb isolator fixed the issue for devices that didn't fix it themselves.

 

[DLS79]

Maybe, but I had this and all UK sockets are earthed, a cheap usb isolator fixed the issue for devices that didn't fix it themselves.

As some of us have mentioned previously you can get noise in multiple ways. You can have grounded outlets and a usb isolator and still get noise at the speakers.

The proper way to deal with it is start at the power source for your source devises and work towards the other end of the chain.

 

[yewneek]

Nope. That would be against the five electricity safety rules (translated from German)

1. Disconnect from the power source.
2. Ensure protection against re-energizing.
3. Verify absence of voltage.
4. Ground and short-circuit.
5. Cover and barricade nearby live parts.

Or...

1. Turn off the power and ensure the system is not energized.
2. Use a DMM (Digital Multimeter) to check for continuity, starting with known ground connections.
3. Document the ground layout before making changes, and avoid breaking ground connections unless you’re sure it’s safe.
4. If isolating circuits, ensure that you’re doing so in a way that maintains proper grounding for both safety and proper functioning of the components.

No way I am going to lift Ground. Even if my speakers have a lift ground switch - this is just not safe.
Theres a ground for a reason.

I think you misinterpret the meaning of 'ground'. I don't mean the EARTH. I'm refereing to the source or sink of electrons, IE the common ground. If you get a continuity tester/DMM then you'll quite possibly find there's continuity across the negative/black to the case, and sometimes to the neutral cable. I think it's actually within (former?) the IEEE regulations common to the UK and EU that ground is sometimes connected/tied to the NEUTRAL phase of domestic mains.

Deny until you're blue in the face, but it's still worth checking.

I found this to be the issue with a Dell laptop to my hifi some years back. Right back to the official laptop PSU, NEUTRAL mains converted to DC, sharing the negative-DC to the ground/cabinet of the hifi. Reasonably new Sony amplifier, and also a 70's JVC receiver. All double-insulated. I had ground-rail noise coming from the laptop which I had connected thru a USB soundcard, then via 3.5mm to RCA to the amplifier. All galvanically connected.

Remedied with a cheap ebay isolation transformer on the line-level connection to the amplifier. It was absolutely empirical.

Unplug it from the mains, for sure. Just take the DMM on continuity test, and clip the probe to the NEUTRAL, and then test all the way with your set-up including the USB connections in place.

Of course it would never happen in Germany. Alles in ordnung, gernau?

GB