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HypeX/PuriFi amplifier products available in the USA?

March Audio

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It was grounded. None of the items we are talking about are UL listed.
It was *not* properly grounded

Using the fit between the chassis and the outside of the IEC receptacle is NOT properly grounded. This will be subject to the resistance from the paint finish and the tightness variable from component size and machining tolerances. There was no wired connection between the IEC earth connection and the chassis. The manufacturer has now changed his previous practice and is fitting this missing cable which tells us all we need to know.

Whats worrying is that it wasnt obvious to the manufacturers that this earth cable was necessary. Considering how litigious the US is, said manufacturer should be very grateful this safety problem was pointed out.
 
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rebbiputzmaker

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It was *not* properly grounded

Using the fit between the chassis and the outside of the IEC receptacle is NOT properly grounded. This will be subject to the resistance from the paint finish and the tightness variable from component size and machining tolerances. There was no wired connection between the IEC earth connection and the chassis. The manufacturer has now changed his previous practice and is fitting this missing cable which tells us all we need to know.

Whats worrying is that it wasnt obvious to the manufacturers that this earth cable was necessary. Considering how litigious the US is, said manufacturer should be very grateful this safety problem was pointed out.
There is no paint inside of a cut out in a metal chassis. A proper friction fit with the large surface area of the entire IEC shell can provide a proper ground. What about when you crimp the wire or when you push it on the terminal or onto a tab, or the screw becomes loose. How tight are and good are those connections? The same can apply to the chassis in contact with the shell. The tab is there if one would like, or for a non-metallic/ non conductive chassis.
 
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CDMC

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I think the higher powered Purifi amplifiers that @Matias mentioned would be my 'endgame' amplifiers (which would be a nice pair with my 'endgame' Salon 2s). As such, I'm not really ready to spend $2500 in amplifiers if I'd later be upgrading it.

So, for now I ended up placing an order for the @March Audio P502, which was about $1047.50 shipped to the US via DHL 5-day! I think this will be good enough to get me started with my Salon 2's when they arrive :)

Later, when the higher powered Purifi amplifiers are available, then maybe I'll upgrade to those and relegate the P502 to my secondary towers in another room when that time comes.

I predict that you will be so happy with the 502, you won’t feel a need to upgrade. If you ever feel the need for a Class A amp, just get an empty amp case, install a space heater and turn it on.
 
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echopraxia

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If you ever feel the need for a Class A amp, just get an empty amp case, install a space heater and turn it on.
You joke, but it would not surprise me if someone made such a product, and hordes of subjectivist reviewers report how amazing it sounds and how it sounds so much better than any Class D amp :)
 

CDMC

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There is no paint inside of a cut out in a metal chassis. A proper friction fit with the large surface area of the entire IEC shell can provide a proper ground. What about when you crimp the wire or when you push it on the terminal or onto a tab, or the screw becomes loose. How tight are and good are those connections? The same can apply to the chassis in contact with the shell. The tab is there if one would like, or for a non-metallic/ non conductive chassis.

Except you are incorrect. The entire case, including thread holes is anodized. Anodized metal is non-conductive.
 

CDMC

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You joke, but it would not surprise me if someone made such a product, and hordes of subjectivist reviewers report how amazing it sounds and how it sounds so much better than any Class D amp :)

I was thinking as I wrote it, I should build one, throw some icepower modules in it, big heat sinks and a heater for the heat sinks. Weld the case shut (to fully eliminate emf and vibration induced distortion), find a goldenear who proclaims it the best ever, and sell them for $5,000.
 

rebbiputzmaker

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Except you are incorrect. The entire case, including thread holes is anodized. Anodized metal is non-conductive.
Did you actually build it were you there? You really can’t say that if you don’t really know for sure. Is it cut before anodizing or after? Was it cleaned before insertion of the IEC?
 

CDMC

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Did you actually build it were you there? You really can’t say that if you don’t really know for sure. Is it cut before anodizing or after? Was it cleaned before insertion of the IEC?

Funny you should ask. Take a look at the post in the photo below, I assume you will recognize it. Take a look at the amp below it that sits on my desk. My statements are based on my personal knowledge having taken it apart. Would you like to continue your argument which consists of nothing but speculation and conjecture?

As I said, get angry much?! For someone who claims to be "Addicted to Fun and Learning", you ironically seem to be interested in neither. Worse yet, you seem to want to block others from learning from those more knowledgeable. I would love for you to prove me wrong. You could do so by becoming a forum donor to help continue the testing that Amir performs.

IMG_6780 (Custom).JPG
 

rebbiputzmaker

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Funny you should ask. Take a look at the post in the photo below, I assume you will recognize it. Take a look at the amp below it that sits on my desk. My statements are based on my personal knowledge having taken it apart. Would you like to continue your argument which consists of nothing but speculation and conjecture?

As I said, get angry much?! For someone who claims to be "Addicted to Fun and Learning", you ironically seem to be interested in neither. Worse yet, you seem to want to block others from learning from those more knowledgeable.

View attachment 70750
Nobody is angry here why would anybody be angry, this is a conversation. Did you take the IEC out to see that it was anodized inside? Did you measure it with a meter to see that it did not provide contact? I am aware you have the amp. I just think sometimes the overall commentary can be misunderstood or unfair. Just like talking about what a solder joint looks like. Maybe some are not as pretty as others but does that mean they do not make good contact? Were there cold solder joints in the amp?
 

CDMC

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Nobody is angry here why would anybody be angry, this is a conversation. Did you take the IEC out to see that it was anodized inside? Did you measure it with a meter to see that it did not provide contact? I am aware you have the amp. I just think sometimes the overall commentary can be misunderstood or unfair. Just like talking about what a solder joint looks like. Maybe some are not as pretty as others but does that mean they do not make good contact? Were there cold solder joints in the amp?

You have a funny way of conversating. I will make you a deal. My normal bill rate for clients is $400 per hour. You pay for 1/2 hour of my time, the funds to be paid to ASR to make you a forum donor, and I will pull the entire amp apart, photograph it, as well as measure the resistance of the anodizing. This way everyone learns and the site that you have posted to 890 times gets some support.
 

rebbiputzmaker

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You have a funny way of conversating. I will make you a deal. My normal bill rate for clients is $400 per hour. You pay for 1/2 hour of my time, the funds to be paid to ASR to make you a forum donor, and I will pull the entire amp apart, photograph it, as well as measure the resistance of the anodizing. This way everyone learns and the site that you have posted to 890 times gets some support.
Well all you need is 30 seconds and a meter I work pro bono. ;)
 

Thomas savage

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Did you actually build it were you there? You really can’t say that if you don’t really know for sure. Is it cut before anodizing or after? Was it cleaned before insertion of the IEC?
I had kit with this issue , it's not uncommon for the anodising coat to cause this issue .

Can we move on now please , my red warning should of been the end of this.
 

March Audio

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Nobody is angry here why would anybody be angry, this is a conversation. Did you take the IEC out to see that it was anodized inside? Did you measure it with a meter to see that it did not provide contact? I am aware you have the amp. I just think sometimes the overall commentary can be misunderstood or unfair. Just like talking about what a solder joint looks like. Maybe some are not as pretty as others but does that mean they do not make good contact? Were there cold solder joints in the amp?
Sorry Thomas I am going to comment, but it is the last one just to make sure anyone who reads is clear on the point.

It doesnt matter. Just "touching" with "friction" isnt adequate even if paint / anodising has been removed. It needs to be a secure screwed or bolted connection. You are simply wrong so accept it so we can all move on.
 
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echopraxia

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In the bass range, especially deep bass, the output capability will be limited by the maximum excursion of the drivers. Running a quick model on 3 8" drivers (Scan Speak 22w, as they were easily available for specs and if anything have more capability than the SB woofers) shows that at 45 hz, max power is about 400 watts before the drivers exceed their excursion limits (vented enclosure tuned to 27hz). At that point you should be seeing about 112 db of output capability per speaker (115 per pair). Even if the Revel drivers have half the excursion capability, your maximum power will drop to 100 watts, but output will still be about 105db at 45 hz.

Remember that output will be rolling off below 50 hz or so, but room reinforcement will make up for it. So the short answer is that yes, the Salon's in a reasonable sized room will put out more than 100db below 30hz with that much power. Keep in mind 3 8" drivers is nearly the equivalent of a single 15" woofer, but the 15" will generally have more maximum excursion allowing greater overall output.

Going back to this, another question came to my mind: if this is true about excursion, is it “safer” to have an amplifier that starts clipping if pushes past the limits, or is it safer if the amplifier keeps putting out power but rather the woofers physically start reaching their excursion limits?

I suppose one of the nice thing about active speakers/subwoofers like my Rythmik subwoofers is I never really need to worry about this — I just leave the active protection switch on and forget about it.

Still, particularly with speakers like the Salon2’s, I would like to try them without subwoofers. I’m sure just about any music will be just fine. For movies played loudly, I’m not sure. I like to understand the limits, and of course want to make sure I don’t push anything too far and damage it.
 
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CDMC

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My understanding is it is always better to have too much power and overdrive the speaker. When the amp clips it can rapidly overheat the voice coil and damage it. If you overdrive the woofer with too much power, you will normally hear the woofer bottom and turn it down.
 

benny1201

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I'm wondering folks what are the parts required to build you own PuriFi amplifier. I was really interested in the VTV but then they are out of stock on the stereo version and won't reply to contact request on their websites. So I might want to just build one myself.

Thanks.
 

Lifer

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I think a final comment is that we have no intention of trying to compete on price. A race to the bottom only ends up with companies going out of business because they cut corners leading to poor quality and customer satisfaction, plus ultimately they cant cover their costs.

Hello March Audio,
I couldn't agree more with this statement and that's why I am ok paying a premium for this.
On the other hand, like Echopraxia, I have difficulties justifying psychologically such a difference in price.
Hence my question : Is there any plan for you to release a Stereo version of the Purifi ? It would bring the price a little bit down (one case, one PSU, one inlet...) and would be the good compromise for me and many others I think.

Thank you in advance for your answer
 

March Audio

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Hello March Audio,
I couldn't agree more with this statement and that's why I am ok paying a premium for this.
On the other hand, like Echopraxia, I have difficulties justifying psychologically such a difference in price.
Hence my question : Is there any plan for you to release a Stereo version of the Purifi ? It would bring the price a little bit down (one case, one PSU, one inlet...) and would be the good compromise for me and many others I think.

Thank you in advance for your answer
Hi @Lifer

Yes

Just about to put the order for cases in ;)
 
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