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Hypex Nilai500DIY Amplifier Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 5 1.3%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 16 4.0%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 76 19.0%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 302 75.7%

  • Total voters
    399
So no one has comments on the AUDIOPHONICS HPA-S300NIL versus ClassDDIY version (better implementation)??
I have the DIY Nilai Stereo kit. The Audiophonics version has a nicer case and possibly better cooling (I notice that the heat sinks aren't connected to any modules), plus switchable XLR/RCA inputs. I expect the measurements are identical, or display miniscule differences related to component tolerances.
 
So no one has comments on the AUDIOPHONICS HPA-S300NIL versus ClassDDIY version (better implementation)??
I suspect no-one will have comments until both are measured here.

Someone might comment subjectively if they have both versions - but how likely is that?


Either way - any difference in performance will almost certainly be below the level of audibility - so if I were you, I'd be choosing based on features, convenience, price, and appearance.
 
Reporting on Nilai 500 stereo. Almost one year after my piecing together the amp (27 Apr 2023), it has worked flawlessly with no troubles. Great product at a reasonable price.
I built mine in June 2023, no issues and very happy with it. Run it hours per day.
 
So wiring, input and output stage are the same?
Out of curiosity I just looked at the Audiophonics version. Yes, the amplifier modules and power supply are the same.

The differences between the amplifiers are relatively minor, but they may be meaningful to some people. Regarding the Audiophonics version:

1. It has a different case. The on/off button and LED on the front are much larger. It also has heat sinks, but the amplifier modules are not directly connected to them.
2. It has both XLR and RCA inputs. The DIY only has XLR inputs.
3. It uses different speaker binding posts. They look nice.
4. It has both an input and an output trigger. The DIY only has an input trigger.
5. The amplifier modules are rotated 90 deg. and a spaced further apart vs. the DIY. This results in longer power wiring, but shorter speaker leads.

The case difference really is a matter of taste. I'm not sure whether the heat sinks do much since the amplifier modules are not connected directly to them, and the modules do not dissipate that much thermal energy anyway.

The RCA inputs are useful for someone who needs them.

Could spacing the amplifier modules farther apart change the stereo separation? Maybe. No way to tell unless somebody actually measures stereo separation on both units and compares them.

The shorter speaker leads are inconsequential in comparison to the speaker cables that likely will be used.

The output trigger could be useful for daisy chaining components. I just used 3-way splitter to run the trigger output from my miniDSP to the trigger input on each of my amplifiers, one of which is the Nilai500DIY Stereo.
 
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Could spacing the amplifier modules farther apart change the stereo separation? Maybe. No way to tell unless somebody actually measures stereo separation on both units and compares them.
And how much stereo separation do you need before the difference becomes audible? Vinyl listeners seem to be OK by separation in the 20-30 dB range, modern amps do way better than that.
 
And how much stereo separation do you need before the difference becomes audible? Vinyl listeners seem to be OK by separation in the 20-30 dB range, modern amps do way better than that.
I don't know. Just curious why they rotated the amplifier modules 90 degrees and spaced them further apart.

I guess it is kind of like the difference between 110 dB and 120 dB SINAD - 99.9% of listeners will never be able to tell the difference, but it is interesting from an engineering perspective.
 
There are also 2 versions of Apollon dual mono using Nilai amps.



Hypex-Nilai-500-Stereo-Dual-Mono-Amplifier-Inside-Modules-Apollon-Audio-jpg.webp
 
Out of curiosity I just looked at the Audiophonics version. Yes, the amplifier modules and power supply are the same.

The differences between the amplifiers are relatively minor, but they may be meaningful to some people. Regarding the Audiophonics version:

1. It has a different case. The on/off button and LED on the front are much larger. It also has heat sinks, but the amplifier modules are not directly connected to them.
2. It has both XLR and RCA inputs. The DIY only has XLR inputs.
3. It uses different speaker binding posts. They look nice.
4. It has both an input and an output trigger. The DIY only has an input trigger.
5. The amplifier modules are rotated 90 deg. and a spaced further apart vs. the DIY. This results in longer power wiring, but shorter speaker leads.

The case difference really is a matter of taste. I'm not sure whether the heat sinks do much since the amplifier modules are not connected directly to them, and the modules do not dissipate that much thermal energy anyway.

The RCA inputs are useful for someone who needs them.

Could spacing the amplifier modules farther apart change the stereo separation? Maybe. No way to tell unless somebody actually measures stereo separation on both units and compares them.

The shorter speaker leads are inconsequential in comparison to the speaker cables that likely will be used.

The output trigger could be useful for daisy chaining components. I just used 3-way splitter to run the trigger output from my miniDSP to the trigger input on each of my amplifiers, one of which is the Nilai500DIY Stereo.
Thanks for your exhaustive comparison between the two Nilai implementations.
Unfortunately Audiophonics doesn't produce a mono version of the Nilai amp...
 
Hello everyone, I have a problem but I'm sure for You guys it will be simple case :) For everyday listening I use 4 way high efficiency speakers (Troels Gravesen The Loudspeaker 2), Hypex Nilai power amp and MiniDSP Flex Balanced. This config sounds very good for me, especially when using DIRAC room correction. I was thinking about replacing Nilai with two Hypex Fusion amps Fa253, and make speakers active (3 way) - but it is not about the passive/active/filters question. I'm sure passive/active are totally different worlds. My question is: do those Hypex Fusion amps (nCore onboard) will sound somehow inferior compared to Nilai or even sound differently? My humble experience is, if amps are "good enough" they sound fairly similar, BUT I simple still can't figure out what is going on in my present situation. In my opinion this Nilai just sound different that other class D amps I heard (like Icepower 1200AS2, Eigentakt, VMV A2). I know, You probably will say "make blind test and You will hear no difference" and I'm telling You - I did the test. I can clearly hear that Nilai have more smooth sound, more "analog like" compared to other amps I mentioned. But I'm also almost sure, that this blind test wasn't done right. I adjusted volume but maybe my config is not done right, maybe some of the amps need preamp, different buffers... I'don't know. I couldn't find any measurements/opinions about Fusion amps that could confess me. Are those Fusion amps audible transparent (there are DACs and DSP onboard)? Will they sound the same as Nilai? Thanks in advance for any help :)
 
But I'm also almost sure, that this blind test wasn't done right.
Indeed. :)

What you need is not just level matching with a meter, but a double blind ABX test, and with enough rounds to make it statistically valid.
 
My question is: do those Hypex Fusion amps (nCore onboard) will sound somehow inferior compared to Nilai or even sound differently?
Amir has stated that human hearing, at its best, can detect SINAD as low as -115 dB (or maybe it was -120 dB, I don't remember). Others claim the threshold is higher - I have seen -80 dB and -100 dB thrown around.

The Nilai measures -104, -109 or -113 dB, depending on which gain setting you use, as posted in Amir's review. The NCore measures around -94 dB.


So, technically, the Nilia is superior. Will you hear the difference? Maybe, maybe not. Given that you can tell the difference between the Nilia and the other amps you mention, perhaps you will.

FYI, I reached out to Hypex a few months back and inquired whether they have an nCorex version of Fusion coming out. Their response is that they do, but it is about 2 years out. I did not ask if their will also be a Nilai version of Fusion, but that also would be interesting.
 
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I appreciate this thread, and this forum. Looking into upgrading to the Nilai. Incidentally, I appreciate both the hard science, and the hard science rebuttals of the trolling superlative (Keats? Byron?) subjective prose. Me? Subjective? I'd get straight to the point: I hear angels sing!

If I run a Hypex Nilai500DIY stereo kit at the lowest gain setting, into an 8 ohm load, I'm curious what amplifiers on the market exceed the specifications of the Nilai500DIY stereo kit (any price/any power/any load). And if so, what price/power/load? And what specs?

If I drive the Nilai500DIY stereo kit at the lowest gain setting into 8 ohms, what level of signal will achieve 190W? I plan on using a Presonus Quantum interface with a claimed max output of +18dBu. Quantum specs here.

Feel free to also comment on my choice of interface. :p
 
If I run a Hypex Nilai500DIY stereo kit at the lowest gain setting, into an 8 ohm load, I'm curious what amplifiers on the market exceed the specifications of the Nilai500DIY stereo kit (any price/any power/any load). And if so, what price/power/load? And what specs?

 
If I drive the Nilai500DIY stereo kit at the lowest gain setting into 8 ohms, what level of signal will achieve 190W?
That depends on the level of your input signal. The Nilai500DIY takes XLR inputs, which are 4 V.

In my system I am doing a lot of DSP for equalization. That seems to reduce the average output level of my DSP/preamp. (I speculate, but don't know for sure, that when I add 6 dB of gain to a region for room correction the DSP is lowering the rest of the spectrum to keep headroom). `Thus, in my case, I am running in the medium gain setting, and still do not get full output power. But, I don't need it either. I am only using it to drive the woofers in an active speaker setup.
 
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