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How to disassemble Topping E50?

Joined
Mar 20, 2022
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Just received a brand new Topping E50 after a bunch of headaches, only to find something is rattling around inside. By the sounds of it, it seems like a free screw. Nothing else seems to be rattling around, so I'm hoping it just fell in during assembly and went unnoticed.

After all the time and trouble I had to go through to get this thing (long story), I'd like to take it apart and — if that's the only problem — pull it out and be on my way.

I took the three torx screws off the back, but nothing has loosened up. I don't want to start to make permanent changes to it, but I'm wondering if there are additional screws under the rubber feet? Or is there a security screw under the (laughable) QC sticker on the side?

I'm happy to turn it upside down to let the screw rest on the top and plug it in to ensure that it works, and if so, don't mind violating warranty to get inside and remove this confounded screw, but I don't know if there are exposed leads on the back that it might touch, so if anyone has a picture of the inside, that would be helpful as well.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
OP
M
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Mar 20, 2022
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Solved my own problem. For anyone that wants to get inside, in the future:

Unlike several models, there are no screws on the bottom of the device. And, unlike several models, the back plate is FIRMLY wedged within the rear of the unit.

After trying to wedge a screw in one of the screw holes and leverage it as a pull (to no avail), I got brave (and stupid) and clamped one of the RCA jacks with pliers and gently pulled. This freed the back plate from the unit.

BUT BE CAREFUL!

The main board is on a track and slides in and out, but is attached via a ribbon cable to the faceplate. If you pull too far, you'll disconnect (or damage) that.

If you want to take the whole thing out, looks like you'll need an extender to reach torx screws that are all the way deep into the front end of the unit, which would presumably free that and allow both to come out.

Since my only interest was to remove the item rattling around, I didn't bother to experiment. (It was, indeed, a screw, with a little clear plastic stopper. Not sure if it's related to this unit — possibly to space a board or something? — but I didn't dig around to find out.)

Reassembled and it works fine. (At least from the optical port. I'll test the rest later.)

Just be careful however you choose to apply back pressure to the back plate. The RCA plug was probably not the best choice for a whole host of reasons, though I don't see a better option with a quick glance. Someone more clever than me may be able to devise a more suitable way.

Hope this helps anyone in the future!
 
OP
M
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PXL_20220401_212616271.jpg

This little bugger right here.
 
OP
M
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Mar 20, 2022
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Just a side note:

I'm very much enjoying this DAC! Great quality!

I have an iFi Zen Blue v2 to do (close to? actual?) lossless 44.1K/48K 16-bit LDAC stuff, but noticed a distinct drop in quality after "upgrading" from a Lavaudio DS200Pro. I got this DAC to do a better job in the chain, as well as plug in directly to my server. (Bedroom setup.)

I bring this up to suggest folks maybe check out the Lavaudio Bluetooth receiver. I was very happy with it (moved it to another, less important room) and didn't realize how good its DAC is, at least subjectively speaking. A quick/informal A/B shows that it holds up very well to the iFi+E50 chain, and MUCH better than the iFi DAC. (Which is garbage. I'm only ever running stuff through Topping DACs from now on. I'm sold — 100% Topping fanboy now!)

It's pretty cheap ($80) and I'll see about sending it off to Amir when his backlog gets a bit smaller. It might be a sleeper for cheap, high quality Bluetooth!
 

Bow_Wazoo

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Joined
Jan 3, 2021
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After this damn bright USB display got on my nerves tonight, I had to build a tool, to get to the display and stick a light dim on it.

20220826_131200.jpg
20220826_131211.jpg

20220826_134336.jpg
 
Last edited:

RichM

Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2021
Messages
10
Likes
1
Solved my own problem. For anyone that wants to get inside, in the future:

Unlike several models, there are no screws on the bottom of the device. And, unlike several models, the back plate is FIRMLY wedged within the rear of the unit.

After trying to wedge a screw in one of the screw holes and leverage it as a pull (to no avail), I got brave (and stupid) and clamped one of the RCA jacks with pliers and gently pulled. This freed the back plate from the unit.

BUT BE CAREFUL!

The main board is on a track and slides in and out, but is attached via a ribbon cable to the faceplate. If you pull too far, you'll disconnect (or damage) that.

If you want to take the whole thing out, looks like you'll need an extender to reach torx screws that are all the way deep into the front end of the unit, which would presumably free that and allow both to come out.

Since my only interest was to remove the item rattling around, I didn't bother to experiment. (It was, indeed, a screw, with a little clear plastic stopper. Not sure if it's related to this unit — possibly to space a board or something? — but I didn't dig around to find out.)

Reassembled and it works fine. (At least from the optical port. I'll test the rest later.)

Just be careful however you choose to apply back pressure to the back plate. The RCA plug was probably not the best choice for a whole host of reasons, though I don't see a better option with a quick glance. Someone more clever than me may be able to devise a more suitable way.

Hope this helps anyone in the future!
 

RichM

Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2021
Messages
10
Likes
1
Thanks for the detailed write up! The RCA output jacks are incredibly loose on my E50, thought about pulling it apart to see what can be done.
 

ChrisMmm

New Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2022
Messages
2
Likes
2
Solved my own problem. For anyone that wants to get inside, in the future:

Unlike several models, there are no screws on the bottom of the device. And, unlike several models, the back plate is FIRMLY wedged within the rear of the unit.

After trying to wedge a screw in one of the screw holes and leverage it as a pull (to no avail), I got brave (and stupid) and clamped one of the RCA jacks with pliers and gently pulled. This freed the back plate from the unit.

BUT BE CAREFUL!

The main board is on a track and slides in and out, but is attached via a ribbon cable to the faceplate. If you pull too far, you'll disconnect (or damage) that.

If you want to take the whole thing out, looks like you'll need an extender to reach torx screws that are all the way deep into the front end of the unit, which would presumably free that and allow both to come out.

Since my only interest was to remove the item rattling around, I didn't bother to experiment. (It was, indeed, a screw, with a little clear plastic stopper. Not sure if it's related to this unit — possibly to space a board or something? — but I didn't dig around to find out.)

Reassembled and it works fine. (At least from the optical port. I'll test the rest later.)

Just be careful however you choose to apply back pressure to the back plate. The RCA plug was probably not the best choice for a whole host of reasons, though I don't see a better option with a quick glance. Someone more clever than me may be able to devise a more suitable way.

Hope this helps anyone in the future!
Hah, just received my E50 and I too have a rattling nut/bolt or whatever. At the moment inclined to leave it and enjoy the music. I was wondering how to get into it so you post is very helpful.

Paired with a PA5 very pleased with the sound so far.
 
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