For example, let’s say we have a 90db/1mt sensitivity speaker. So;
How much power do we need to get
90db/1mt and 100db/1mt at 20hz?
90 and 100db at 30hz?
90 and 100db at 40hz?
+10dB is 10 times the power.
dB = 10 x log(P/Pref).
Or for voltage, dB = 20 x log(V/Vref). (Power is the combination of voltage & current and with a given impedance load current is proportional to voltage... If you double one you also double the other.)
...I have these formulas in a spreadsheet, as well as the reverse formulas for converting dB to power and voltage ratios.
The "power needed" for 90dB doesn't depend on frequency.
But "power handling" is
does depend on frequency because there's more energy in the low frequencies. It's the (short-term) average power that burns-out speakers, not the peaks.
Also, with real world program material, the more octaves a driver has to handle, the more power it has to handle.
Let’s say, both tweeter and subwoofer has 90db sensitivity. But these sensitivity numbers are measured in different frequencies. At least it’s not the sensitivity of all frequencies. It’s generally sensitivity of 1khz for many speakers.
If you're talking about a speaker
system (a complete 2-way or 3-way speaker),
ideally the frequency response is flat. If the tweeter has higher sensitivity, the crossover network usually has resistors to knock it down to match the other driver(s). ...You usually don't build a speaker with a woofer that's more sensitive than the tweeter because you need power & SPL in the bass range so the last thing you want to do is knock-down the bass to match a low-sensitivity tweeter.
If the bass falls-off and you boost the bass by +6dB to make it "flat", that's 4 times the power.
Of course, woofers have lower sensitivity at high frequencies and tweeters have lower sensitivity at low frequencies. The specs for the individual drivers are usually NOT at 1kHz.
This is averaged. You miss the peak values, very valuable for knowing the power needed.
In Audacity you can use high-pass, low-pass, and band-pass filters. Then you can "trick" it into giving the peaks by running the
Amplify effect.
Amplify will default to whatever amplification (or attenuation) is needed for maximized/normalized 0dB peaks. For example, if
Amplify defaults to a
change of +10dB, your peaks are currently -10dB. (Then you can cancel the effect since you just want to check.) Or, there are some plug-ins that will measure peak & RMS and maybe 3rd-party plug-ins for LUFS.
If you are building a bi-amped or tri-amped speaker, you'd want to know the typical
peak ratios for the different drivers.