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How much bass is enough?

Marin

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2025
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Ok I guys my bass is now at+4db.
Before it was+6bd and in youth it was around+10 lol.
You could say I am bas head...
Also could you as a rule, cross them at 80 even though they are a 3-way speaker design? Especially if it has crossover like mine, and weird design where middle driver has port and that port has different output than two lower one's.
The top one is set to 100hz, and the bottom two are set to 40-80hz.
Essentially the speaker are flat.
Right now I have them at full range+little 8 inch Kenwood subwoofer and it's has much more dinamics in music than when I crossed them at 80hz.
The crossover is very low and the bottom 4 speakers do nothing when I am crossed at 60-80db.
Anyway here are specifications
Any help, opinion is welcome
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Set bass levels to taste.
There is no right or wrong unless you are in a studio and want reference sound.
Besides... your room changes it anyway.
 
Yeah guys I will listen to my taste and at full range since I have 3-way design with 4 5,25 "woofer's" crossed at as little as 100hz.
If it's 2-way design definitely worth bass management.
 
Equal loudness compensation (ELC still mostly to ISO 226 2003)! Amount varies with SPL. Flat natural in room response is to wite (focused) noise 85/88 dB SPL calibration point at listening spot/area. Keap in mind that with every doubling of distance you lose little less than 6 dB (in room) of output so you need more capable (bigger) speakers to do it equally good. More you go down with desired program SPL you need more correction in form of boost to keep presence as it should be on calibration point. Kneew frequency for ELC in lower bass part is 105 Hz so crossover for sub's should be over it at least say 120 Hz but then you need to go 2.2 and sub close to belonging main which is offloading. You pick sub's to how much they can give you at mid 30's (Hz) as well that's where in sane mixes is where true peeks will be for low/sub bass heavy materials (electronic mostly).
Fufff those speakers are so called 2.5 way. 2x 5.5" under 100 Hz and one over end to far extended to 3 KHz. Fun part 5.5" woffer is not even touching anything below 100 Hz on it's own at least not even close to 0 dB. Theoretically yes 2x = +3 dB and where one 6.5" stands to get to 80 Hz you need 8" to reach 0 dB. Another fun part is when you cut good 8" woffer at 120 Hz (which can pump 0 dB at 80 Hz) and make of it main bass driver up to 250 Hz you get main bit/drum section cristal clear (very low distortion stressed out). From 250 Hz a separate close enclosure midrange driver should take on and unified dispersion is more than welcome while 5.5~6.5" will do fine or more than fine stil not crossed too high with tweeter/tweeters and so on (regarding tweeters / super tweeters types, loading, areas).
Then there is the elephant in the room (Xroom), phase and getting nulls off as much as possible, improving back to front ratios and space reverberation... Not quite easy to get there but you can if you use everything you can to your advantage (especially placement).
Mesurement microphone is a instrument that tells you in which direction you should go.
 
Yes, you are right about everything, almost a 2.5-way configuration.
Basically I would do what you say, cross good woofers as high as 120hz.So I can offload middle driver(but it's driver with low 60herz free resonance so it's quite capable to handle 100-2500Hz range) if I had a 2-way bookshelf speakers in 2.2 configuration.
But my situation is different I have little weird tower's and woofer that is rated 35-200hz,I guess -10, but it's made of aluminum and that really helps with impulse response...
I post some measurements so you can help me guy's,not that this isn't informative, far from it .
Woffer provides very little extension, but it's necessary for that bump in 40-110hz that I like...
 
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Too much bass? Why I never! I agree that you just set it to what you like and then move on. Enjoy what you have as its all good.
 
I prefer some cone area up to around 400Hz. I find the smaller speakers with 5-6" woofers lacking full-ness in this frequency area - especially because my room is bigger and needs more volume to "shock" the air.
Measurements seems to show that two speakers can play the same level of bass... but definitely not sound the same.

Just bought a set of KEF R3 Meta, and they sound just fine, but quite "thin" at the mid-bass are. My DIY speakers with a pair of Satori WO24P per side, sound just as smooth and refined, but with much more volume - making them sound more powerful, but not in the typical "more bass" kinda way - no boominess - though more "full".
So IMO, we have to take the specific "picture" into consideration. The room, the setup, max SPL, the reference, the preference and the measurements.
I also "add" a little extra in the deep - below around 50Hz - since I like that "thumb" it adds to the sound.
Response is not super "clean" - because that is just all the "fun" my room adds to the output of my speakers and subwoofers. But the trend is smooth and I experiene some of the overall best neutral sound I've ever had in my room, no matter the material or music style I listen to.
Measured in the listening position - with a "tad" of smoothing for added ease of "trend" watching.
ML feb 2026.png
 
Yes, you are right about everything, almost a 2.5-way configuration.
Basically I would do what you say, cross good woofers as high as 120hz.So I can offload middle driver(but it's driver with low 60herz free resonance so it's quite capable to handle 100-2500Hz range) if I had a 2-way bookshelf speakers in 2.2 configuration.
But my situation is different I have little weird tower's and woofer that is rated 35-200hz,I guess -10, but it's made of aluminum and that really helps with impulse response...
I post some measurements so you can help me guy's,not that this isn't informative, far from it .
Woffer provides very little extension, but it's necessary for that bump in 40-110hz that I like...
Well problem is 100 Hz first crossover and two woofers which go with it and they can do approximately 0 dB at that frequency all together, port can extend to their - 6, additional +3 when it's unified wave (45 Hz and under and in between partially summing up to +3 gradual from 75 Hz) so you do what you can and that's 80 Hz crossover (high pass on mains) and don't need or want their port reinforcement anymore so you might as well plug them and at least it's not a problem with F5 to do that. It's fine to stay 2.1 and more so use second and other subs firing opposite ways and creating equal pressure chamber. You can't stress them out but that doesn't mean they won't sound good as it is, anyway you can't do anything about how low first crossover in them is set.
Another problem of F5 is relatively low efficiency (quote 85 db/W really more 82). You see every advantage in one way is disatvant in another. Harder the cone is it will behave more linear (Xmax Lin) but it will also be heavier and there for for their cone diameter less sensitive. E DBR62 is great example of a job greatly done and even took him (A. J.) a lot of work in cuple iterations to get there especially regarding the enclosure with similar 6.5" woffer's staying in really affordable category.
If you want example of maxi bookshelf's done almost to previously described In affordable category take a look at Wharfedale Linton's 85 (A. E.) or less affordable but still somewhat that in flor standing one's at Polk R700 (if you can find them anymore).
 
Well problem is 100 Hz first crossover and two woofers which go with it and they can do approximately 0 dB at that frequency all together, port can extend to their - 6, additional +3 when it's unified wave (45 Hz and under and in between partially summing up to +3 gradual from 75 Hz) so you do what you can and that's 80 Hz crossover (high pass on mains) and don't need or want their port reinforcement anymore so you might as well plug them and at least it's not a problem with F5 to do that. It's fine to stay 2.1 and more so use second and other subs firing opposite ways and creating equal pressure chamber. You can't stress them out but that doesn't mean they won't sound good as it is, anyway you can't do anything about how low first crossover in them is set.
Another problem of F5 is relatively low efficiency (quote 85 db/W really more 82). You see every advantage in one way is disatvant in another. Harder the cone is it will behave more linear (Xmax Lin) but it will also be heavier and there for for their cone diameter less sensitive. E DBR62 is great example of a job greatly done and even took him (A. J.) a lot of work in cuple iterations to get there especially regarding the enclosure with similar 6.5" woffer's staying in really affordable category.
If you want example of maxi bookshelf's done almost to previously described In affordable category take a look at Wharfedale Linton's 85 (A. E.) or less affordable but still somewhat that in flor standing one's at Polk R700 (if you can find them anymore).
I'm currently very happy with these speakers and I've only had them for a year and a half.
I studied them carefully and listened to them before I pulled the trigger.
I paid 350 Euros 6 years old speakers back then.
I believe Andrew Jones lowered the crossover so low because he had to balance what he had so he had to make some compromises, and that was at the expense of the cabinets and crossovers. In my book this is a plus,it doesn't intrude on that sensitive vocal area 100-2000hz range.
Wharfdale Linton 85 is great speaker but 3 times the money of mine little tower's...
Mine has two 5,25 while Linton has one 8 inch?
I guess same output?
Same aramid fiber cone's,25 mm soft dome.
More or less similar curves, the only difference is that 8 inch is crossed at 630hz?
Is that too much?
Also I believe F5 has little better frequency response without the grille.
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Linton
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F5 directivity
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Linton directivity plot
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Mostly I just need a boost in the low end around 40-110 without raising that sensitive area above 100 Hertz and muddy the voices and instruments that have fundamental notes above that area.
I listen to a variety of music and I haven't noticed that there's much below 40hz that's audible.
Anyway I feel like I I steal output from the speaker if I crossed them at 100hz.
Robbing them dinamics that 4 drivers has and I only have one Active 8 inch woofer and that is not enough for 20 M³.
I have enough power for them.(120W at 8 Ohms.
The reason why they are so inefficient 83-4db is because they have only 30 liters of internal volume dividend 10 for middle driver and 20 liters lower chamber volume for 2 woofers.
So they have a very low volume of the box, but I have to move them at least 40 cm from wall,otherwise I get to much reinforcement.
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Another part is impedance that is very high. This is what Polish magazine had to say about that:
"On the other hand, this results in low sensitivity, and therefore low pressure at a fixed voltage at the terminals. At the standard 2.83 V, the characteristic oscillates around about 83 dB, which would be a poor result for a 4-ohm speaker, but formally for an 8-ohm speaker (due to the 6-ohm minimum at 100 Hz), and in practice even for a 12-ohm speaker, it is a good result, because considering the efficiency at 1 W, this result is comparable to about 87 dB in a 4-ohm speaker sensitivity measurement. The manufacturer declares an impedance of 6 Ω, missing a good opportunity to boast at least 8 Ω, which a large group of customers are looking for.

The fact is, however, that the F6 will not "extract" the maximum power from many amplifiers, and playing much quieter with a certain gain knob position will give the impression of a speaker that plays "weakly" or even requires more effort from the amplifier - which is completely beside the point of the phenomenon from the electrical side.
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The processing characteristics are well-balanced, very stable (minor changes outside the main axis), even nicer than with the FS U5 Slim (where the treble level was lowered); the wide band of 36 Hz - 20 kHz can be fit into a narrow path of +/- 2 dB, which even the manufacturer does not boast about (stating the band of 39 Hz - 20 kHz without tolerance); a drop of -6 dB in relation to the average level is noted at 33 Hz - this result is all the more valuable because it was obtained in the room.
I tried Dirac on them since they are obviously design with idea more headroom then more sensitivity, but I didn't like the outcome.
Dirac is so agresive.....
The best setup so far is far from corners and one small sub in the corner behind the left speaker.... any help is welcome.
Il try middle position and post some pictures of measurements.
 
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No I was questioning why this discussion is taking place in the Headphone sub(forum) on ASR
 
Sub is little Kenwood 8 inch 100watts(35-200 Hertz)I guess -10 by mine measurements.
I don't listen with headphones in house.
I did not know what I am missing in bass until I got 18" subwoofer. My room is 15x18x12 feet.
 
I did not know what I am missing in bass until I got 18" subwoofer. My room is 15x18x12 feet.
Yes, that's the next investment,silent servo sub with good transient no less than 12"
Any suggestions?
 
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