Hivi 3.1A DIY Speaker With Sehlin Mod Review

[eksine]

I wouldn't do that. the Sehlin mods were never meant for another driver. You're messing with a great design. I got the HSU TN1 15" subwoofer, just get a subwoofer instead, You would think that a 15" sub would be overkill for these but they're not. This is a good combo. If I had a bigger room I would just use 4 of these speakers and the sub., but 2 speakers sounds really good in my small room

 

[flyboy320]

I'm trying to find parts for mod #6, and the only part out of stock locally to me is the 100uF (C5). What I can get is a 33uF and a 68uF and if I put them in parallel then I get 101uF, can I assume this work around would be OK, ie., having the 2 caps in parallel and the value being 101uF and not100uF?

 

[eksine]

I bought all my parts from parts express, I hardly see any audio shops around me, I wouldn't trust parts from a local shops whom I assume carry low quality parts plus like you said if you're missing parts, you might as well just get it online at the same place, shipping is not that bad and worth it. I didn't use any electrolytic caps on my #6 mod, I went with pretty good parts that cost me about $140 for both speakers, I'm working on my 2nd set of these speakers. you can look up parts express coupons and try to save 15% like I did

 

[flyboy320]

I bought all my parts from parts express, I hardly see any audio shops around me, I wouldn't trust parts from a local shops whom I assume carry low quality parts plus like you said if you're missing parts, you might as well just get it online at the same place, shipping is not that bad and worth it. I didn't use any electrolytic caps on my #6 mod, I went with pretty good parts that cost me about $140 for both speakers, I'm working on my 2nd set of these speakers. you can look up parts express coupons and try to save 15% like I did

I live in Canada and Parts Express wants about $70 shipping to me (plus duty and brokerage). I'm using solen.ca for parts and they specialize in speaker parts/accessories, etc. Unfortunately I can't get a 100uF cap from them even if it's a non electrolytic type (back ordered for about another month).

 

[eksine]

I'm no electronics expert but your theory looks solid,

SHDrivesOnTrack
•3y ago

Some information about calculating capacitors in series and parallel.

Connect capacitors in *parallel* to increase the total capacitance. The working voltage of the group will be the smallest wvdc of any single capacitor. e.g. 2x 33uF / 200v caps in parallel = 66uF at 200v.

Connect capacitors in *Series* to increase the voltage, but decrease the capacitance. The total capacitance is: 1/Ct = 1/c1 + 1/c2 + 1/c3. If you have 2 equal capacitors, the formula can be simplified so the total capacitance = 1/2 of a single capacitor. The voltage rating for equal sized capacitors can be simply added together. (but there is a formula for multiple caps of different values). e.g. 2x 120uF / 100V in series is 60uF @ 200v.

Regarding electrolytic / polarized capacitors: You must keep the polarity the same on all the capacitors, but it will work the same as a single polarized capacitor. For parallel capacitors, you hook all the + terminals together and all the - terminals together. For series capacitors, hook each one + to the - on the next one. e.g +(c1)- +(c2)- .

Note however: you can not replace an original non-polar capacitor in the power supply with one that is polarized. Using a series or parallel set of polarized caps will only work if the original part was polarized as well.

For your project, regarding the size of your replacement capacitor. Most of the time, using a capacitor that has a slightly larger capacitance than the original part is ok.

Here is a youtube video about parallel and series capacitors.

source:

https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/vpoq1h/can_you_use_multiple_electrolytic_capacitors_in