Hivi 3.1A DIY Speaker With Sehlin Mod Review

[Old_School_Brad]

I've used several HiVi drivers for DIY and also replacing old ultra rare drivers. They are all top quality products!
They also have a Infinity Polydome drop in replacement for the Kappa series that's pretty damn good.

 

[AlesM]

Making traces implies you're using manufacturer data, but then you stated you measured so I'm a little confused there.

If you're using manufacturer data (which it looks like you are, at least for the woofer) you need to apply diffraction sim which you can do in Virtuixcad. Honestly time to ditch xsim and just use vcad.

thx for an anser.

Yes, of course I used manufacturer data as mesurments are off because room reflections. I used them to identify Z offset.
Can someone share FRD and ZMA files for those thre drivers as my seems to be off. everytime I make new, they are a bit different. Grrrr

br

 

[Reydepancakes]

Hivi speaker kits dead? 3.1a goes out of stock and is out now. 2.2a has been dc'd for a while. I wonder what the next level for value DIY is.

 

[Amarony]

A quick note and a question. First, the kit is available on Amazon again. It was out of stock for a few weeks and seems like it has had short term out of stock notices periodically but for now seems like they are still providing inventory.

Second, forgive me I'm new to this and am learning as much as I can in the hope I only need to do this once. I'm planning on Option 6 and have some in spec but larger inductors. Trying to figure out the best way to align them on the board. So my question is whether it is acceptable/advisable/not a good idea to consider drilling a couple extra holes for zip ties? This would be in the event hot glue or another method doesn't look like an option. The image below for example where I have marked, if I stay away from the obvious traces and borders, would this work? Those marks are just for reference and not a specific plan yet. I know it's probably not ideal but if I'm careful and slow with drilling is this reasonable or is there some clear (or not so clear) reason why this should be avoided?

 

[Reydepancakes]

A quick note and a question. First, the kit is available on Amazon again. It was out of stock for a few weeks and seems like it has had short term out of stock notices periodically but for now seems like they are still providing inventory.

Second, forgive me I'm new to this and am learning as much as I can in the hope I only need to do this once. I'm planning on Option 6 and have some in spec but larger inductors. Trying to figure out the best way to align them on the board. So my question is whether it is acceptable/advisable/not a good idea to consider drilling a couple extra holes for zip ties? This would be in the event hot glue or another method doesn't look like an option. The image below for example where I have marked, if I stay away from the obvious traces and borders, would this work? Those marks are just for reference and not a specific plan yet. I know it's probably not ideal but if I'm careful and slow with drilling is this reasonable or is there some clear (or not so clear) reason why this should be avoided?

View attachment 427292

The board is mounted at the bottom of the cabinet. As long as its not flopping around I wouldn't go modifying things. Easy to add hot glue later.

 

[Paweł L]

Populate the board and see if the components need to be 'strapped' to the board. Often other than really big heavy inductors or capacitors no extra help is needed other than a bit of glue. Forget hot glue as it will be PITA to remove the component if needed - I would just use a bit of silicone, like the one used for bathroom sinks, plus it sort of acts as vibration damper.

 

[Stopher71]

Hey everyone, after years of encountering this thread I've decided to join!

My biggest question is the parts list. I'll probably be doing option 6. Looking at available parts however 18awg inductors are backordered. Would the increased resistance of using 20awg be overly detrimental? I'm fairly certain I cannot tell the difference between mod 5 and 6 and this may sway me to 5.

Anybody have any thoughts on chamfers? What's everybody been doing for fill?

To finish, I'll be doing a walnut veneer ala @AllenW and hopefully can get @direwolf08 to describe how they made their stand as it looks very good.

Amps I'll play with but anybody try out rsl's new mini class D? These go low but the sub out still seems worthwhile for a near field desktop set up with plans to repurpose?



I'll be forced to do an electrolytic cap as well - difference doesn't seem worth it to get a poly cap at 40 bucks a piece. Question though - isn't the 68uF for mod 5? Did you lower the woofer cap from @Mudjock rec 100uF for mod 6?

Quick question, I know option 4 all the polarities are the same are 5 and 6 also the same or is the woofer reversed, I’ve tried it both ways and it sounds great both ways more defined bass with reversed polarity (on 5&6) I just wanna know the correct way, I’m asking because I’m doing point to point I have no PCB, I’ve built 8 sets with number 4 and sold them all, thanks

 

[Stopher71]

While I can't remember the specifics of Mod 6, I went with a 7 ohm resistor in mine which was mod "5.5". If you want to get really exact about it you could parallel a 250 ohm with the 7 ohm to get the 6.81 value. 6.81 will make the tweeter slightly hotter vs. 7 ohm. I probably wouldn't bother with it but that's me.

If you measure a 6.5 it’s actually 6.8

 

[Stopher71]

That's correct, but if you have a reasonable way to measure inductance, it would be possible to unwind L1 from 1.5 mH to 1.2 mH.

Scott, I have a question about option 5 & 6, I’ve already asked the question, but I’m not sure if that person is still around. I know the polarities on option 4 are all the same are 5 and 6 also the same? I’ve tried it both ways on 5 and 6 and both ways Sound good. The bass is a little bit more defined in reverse polarity, but I want to do it the correct way. Thanks

 

[Mudjock]

Scott, I have a question about option 5 & 6, I’ve already asked the question, but I’m not sure if that person is still around. I know the polarities on option 4 are all the same are 5 and 6 also the same? I’ve tried it both ways on 5 and 6 and both ways Sound good. The bass is a little bit more defined in reverse polarity, but I want to do it the correct way. Thanks

The polarities should all be the same for options 5 and 6 as well.

When I originally measured all of the drivers for the modification, I must have wired the woofer in reverse polarity. So, in order to get my simulations to match the final measured response, I had to reverse the polarity of the woofer in the simulation, which is where my crossover diagrams come from.

 

[Mudjock]

If the woofer is actually wired in reverse polarity, there will be reduced output from around 700 Hz to 3 kHz. That would be likely to shift the tonal balance toward bass. You'd be missing some vocal and instrumental information around 1 kHz, as the dip is -10 to -15 dB there.

 

[gregy]

just purchased a kit also and did xover mod 5,
also the diagrams confused me …. with the “reversed” polarity of the woofer.

So to be clear, using the OEM xover, the + terminal on xover PCB is connected to + terminal of speaker? correct.
(& not as shown on the xover mod cct diagrams where woofer + is shown connected to neg side of xover)

 

[Mudjock]

Correct