Hivi 3.1A DIY Speaker With Sehlin Mod Review

[Mudjock]

7 ohms is fine for R1. I have a parts bin full of 6.8 ohm resistors, but for whatever reason, the closest thing Parts Express sell is 7 ohms. The difference is about 3%.

@HighFutility In general, the list seems reasonable. I don't like the 20 ga. air core for the 1.2 mH inductor. The 20 ga. air core will have enough added DC resistance to negatively impact the bass response. Ideally, there would be a 1.2 mH 18 ga. laminate core inductor like the IC181 that Parts Express sells.
There is another source that has something closer, jfcomponents.com

Capacitor

18-160vY

www.jfcomponents.com

They will probably have the other values you need at a competitive or better price.

 

[HighFutility]

7 ohms is fine for R1. I have a parts bin full of 6.8 ohm resistors, but for whatever reason, the closest thing Parts Express sell is 7 ohms. The difference is about 3%.

@HighFutility In general, the list seems reasonable. I don't like the 20 ga. air core for the 1.2 mH inductor. The 20 ga. air core will have enough added DC resistance to negatively impact the bass response. Ideally, there would be a 1.2 mH 18 ga. laminate core inductor like the IC181 that Parts Express sells.
There is another source that has something closer, jfcomponents.com

Capacitor

18-160vY

www.jfcomponents.com

They will probably have the other values you need at a competitive or better price.

I am completely green. I welcome all criticism of my parts list and greatly appreciate your input. I will gladly replace anything you suggest, as I want the best listening experience.

 

[Moth]

I ordered the kit, planning to keep it simple and just do the Sehlin option 4 (thank you for your generosity in sharing this.)

Anybody have any thoughts on recessing the mid. driver to be flush with the other drivers/ baffle? It aesthetically bothers me ( a bit) having that one driver stick out. The mid-driver hole could be rabbeted easily enough. The tweeter and/ or mid-driver flanges would then have to be trimmed to sit together.

Curious why HIVI didn't just design the baffle to allow the drivers to not overlap. (Wharfedale EVO4.2 for reference.) There's so much speculation regarding the necessity of driver proximity, plenty of speakers that measure well with the drivers being fairly spaced apart.

 

[Mudjock]

I guess my thought is that this is the back of the same tweeter.

It would not have been difficult to make a rectangular, oval, or truncated faceplate instead of the big round one. Then the spacing between the mid and tweeter could have been kept small without needing to overlap the driver flanges and have the midrange driver surface mounted. I've seen the same tweeter sold with this faceplate.