High Performance PC Server Interfaces (Async USB)

[deep_blue_fisher]

Hello All,
What is your advise for best way to get digital signal out of a PC via USB-> [?] -> Genelec 8330a?
I'm trying to keep the signal digital. I've posted this question a couple different places in sort of different ways but I'm still not too sure. I called RME and they recommended ADI-Pro2 FS. $2,000 that's fine with me, if a good fit, but sounds like a lot to just pass digital signal along. All I want to do is simple listening.
I called Motu, they recommended Motu-M2, but that seems to have no digital output so probably that's not best.
others on this forum recommended the inexpensive ebay dongle... but then I still am missing physical volume control which it seems like you guys are recommending.
Sorry for reposting... thank you!

 

[staticV3]

others on this forum recommended the inexpensive ebay dongle... but then I still am missing physical volume control which it seems like you guys are recommending.

I'd try the inexpensive dongle. You can add a Genelec Volume Controller if you want that.

Or in case the dongle supports UAC2 Hardware Volume, a regular USB volume knob would do the job as well

Btw, there seem to be four different USB to AES dongle versions around.
One 16/48 with Type-B, one 24/96 with Type-B, one 32/192 with Type-B, and a Type-C one with both USB and BT input.

 

[ZolaIII]

Hello All,
What is your advise for best way to get digital signal out of a PC via USB-> [?] -> Genelec 8330a?
I'm trying to keep the signal digital. I've posted this question a couple different places in sort of different ways but I'm still not too sure. I called RME and they recommended ADI-Pro2 FS. $2,000 that's fine with me, if a good fit, but sounds like a lot to just pass digital signal along. All I want to do is simple listening.
I called Motu, they recommended Motu-M2, but that seems to have no digital output so probably that's not best.
others on this forum recommended the inexpensive ebay dongle... but then I still am missing physical volume control which it seems like you guys are recommending.
Sorry for reposting... thank you!

One way would be to go with something like MiniDSP U-DIO8 trough PC (and PC as DSP). Tho price and availability is not great.
Current price is 400$ (which is actually 100$ increase from five years ago). Still considered as a budget solution.

U-DIO8

The miniDSP U-DIO8 is a pocket size USB Asynchronous interface with support for up to 8 channels of audio recording and 8 channels of playback. Inputs and outputs are digital (AES/EBU or SPDIF) and provided on a standard TASCAM pinout DB-25 to XLR (AES_EBU version) or DB25 to RCA (SPDIF version)

www.minidsp.com

Music in the Round #93: miniDSP & Ripping SACDs

www.stereophile.com

You are pretty much secured in the future regarding it as it's a 8 chenel, concern is on the connection cable interface (so probably not a bad idea to get a spare one from the start). Regarding volume control I would recommend JRiver internal volume control with equal loudness normalisation, you can use remote (smartphone app) like Jremote2 for local content playback and volume controls. ADI has equal loudness on it self but certainly not worth the price and still not sure it would apply to EAS/ABU digital out.
Best regards and have a great time.

 

[gino1961]

I understand that volume controlling in the digital domain can lower resolution
Many High quality mixing desks are analogue and they produce great recordings
I think that most people use analogue XLR to drive powered speakers

 

[Purité Audio]

Maybe once upon a time but now it isn’t an issue, having said that it is good practice to use as little digital attenuation as possible so a device with variable analogue output and digital attenuation is a good idea.
Keith

 

[ZolaIII]

I understand that volume controlling in the digital domain can lower resolution
Many High quality mixing desks are analogue and they produce great recordings
I think that most people use analogue XLR to drive powered speakers

You don't. Doing processing internally in digital domain on 64 bit FP or FP in generally and then glowing it back to 32 or 24 bit integer is how you do it.
Even 24 bit integer is more than enough regarding dynamic range and headroom (144 dB) for let's say 100 steps 0.5 dB with a deacent DAC (100 dB SINAD or more).

https://gearspace.com/board/mastering-forum/1404963-why-i-only-render-audio-64-bit-floating-point-bit-depth.html

On FP what ever corrections you do they end up transparent converted back to integer.

 

[Vincent Kars]

I'm trying to keep the signal digital.

If that's the case, no need to look for a DAC.
I'm not familiar with the Genelec GLM range but it looks like you can feed the monitors using a controller with USB input

Unio Audio Monitoring Platform 9320A SAM Reference Controller - Genelec.com

Revolutionary Smart Monitoring Device: Elevate Your Listening Experience with Seamless Integration of Reference Quality Loudspeakers and Headphones

www.genelec.com

Likewise there are standalone modules: https://support.genelec.com/hc/en-u...pply-should-I-use-for-GLM-in-Standalone-mode-
Volume control https://www.genelec.com/9310b-wired-volume-controller

Better ask Genelec.

 

[AnalogSteph]

Older post, but maybe @Mas950 is still reading this...

The reason I want to do this is to reduce or eliminate the noise from my pc that is coming into my dac.

I'm honestly a bit confused by you apparently having ground loop issues with something like the DA11... it's an IEC Class I piece of kit with balanced outputs only, and I wouldn't expect a company like Lavry to have issues with AES48 compliance (or the equivalent for other kinds of ports) in something released in 2009ish. In short, unless you've got a faulty electrical system or the DAC has been messed with I don't see how you would be running into trouble. Any ground current coming in via USB or coax would be drained to PE pretty much completely.

What kind of equipment do you have connected to the DA11 output, and which input(s) are you using?

With equipment of this vintage, I would expect that an inexpensive ADuM3160/4160-based USB isolator ought to do the trick if you really need one. (And I'm not kidding about the inexpensive part.) 24/96 in stereo is quite feasible with USB 1.1 speeds. I suppose you could get fancy with a Topping HS02 or something.